New to me RC10 Team Car on the way

[lmw94002]

if it's going to be a runner and you're going brushless you might want to look at converting to the v2 slipper. I'm doing that when I'm rebuild my old stealths into cars that I'll be running.

[Peter_B]

if it's going to be a runner and you're going brushless you might want to look at converting to the v2 slipper. I'm doing that when I'm rebuild my old stealths into cars that I'll be running.

I thought about that, then priced up the parts needed for the world's re-re slipper (I'm assuming that's what you mean by V2 slipper). Turned out to be quite a chunk of change.

So it's gone on the list of future upgrades.

I'm only going for mild brushless (17.5T) and the original slipper parts look to be all ok (and present) so it should be ok for the light running that it'll get to begin with.

[Tamlok]

If you buy the slipper parts individually it adds up. Check ebay for stuff like this (brand new just removed from a parted out car).
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-SC10-RS-Transmission-Slipper-Clutch-87T-Spur-16T-Pinion-T4-2-/322717731119?epid=2136196877&hash=item4b2379c92f%3Ag%3AK-UAAOSwoRBZr4TT&_trkparms=pageci%253A415b1274-a973-11e7-8076-74dbd1804f57%257Cparentrq%253Aea52461f15e0ab6a8627d053ffff3c3c%257Ciid%253A4

If you dont upgrade, using a 17.5 you should be fine. I have a 17.5 in mine and crank down pretty good on the slipper (the track i used to run at guys used slipper eliminators). You can gear way up (think i have 75/30?) so low end torque is not too bad and wheelies arent as common

[Peter_B]

Over the last few weeks I finished stripping down the RC10 and gave all of the parts a clean.

I've then started reassembling. Rather than use the original screws I'm using a stainless set from Team KNK. That initially slowed things down a bit as I'm not familiar with the imperial screw sizes and the original Team Car manual isn't all that clear on what screws go where. The instructions would say something like "take the 2 philips screws from bag 6-9" and I'd then have to turn to the parts list at the back, find bag 6-9 and then figure out what size screw they mean.

Things speeded up when I realised the manual for the RC10 Worlds re-release was much clearer (not Tamiya clear but better) and had the size of screw listed on the individual diagrams. So I've been using a combination of the 2 manuals, only really referring to the vintage manual where things are obviously different (slipper assembly for example).

A few pics of progress so far...

[mk-Zero]

Looks great! You gotta love black chassis with white plastic parts! The SS hardware is a nice touch too.

[Peter_B]

Looks great! You gotta love black chassis with white plastic parts! The SS hardware is a nice touch too.

Thanks. The photos make the parts look whiter than they are.

The steering bell cranks are really white, as they're new, the others have a tinge of yellow to them. I can't get them whiter without resorting to chemistry.

I like that stainless kit from Team KNK. I like that they've matched the kit screws pretty much exactly.

[Peter_B]

Little bit more progress.

I built the new CVD rear driveshafts and mounted them along with the rear hub carriers. Not quite finished there as I realised I didn't have some needed wheel spacers so am waiting for those to arrive before I fit the external bearings in the hub carriers and the drive pins.

I also assembled and fitted all of the camber adjustment and steering turnbuckles.

[XLR8]

Hi Peter, that car is looking fantastic -- good job!! I must admit that I haven't read all 97 posts (only quickly scanned them) so please forgive me if this has already been discussed. I think you mentioned you're new to RC10 and that you plan to run your car. If so then I should point out that your car appears to have been equipped with 5 or 10 degree front caster blocks. Depending upon the type of surface on which you will be running the car, with so little caster angle, you may experience some over-steer that can't be corrected. I run my '10's on loose dirt tracks and tend to go with 25 or 30 degree blocks to give them a bit of under-steer. These blocks are still readily available and they are not expensive; I just received some spare 30 degree blocks (#6211) from AMain. You might want to run the car initially and, if it does over-steer and you're not able to correct this with tire changes, consider changing those blocks.

Also, I fully support your decision to run your car. I run all of my cars and yet continue to maintain them in top condition. I'm just wrapping up restoration of a CAT XLS that I've owned for nearly 30 years. BITD I have perhaps 100 or more runs on this car then it sat in the attic for 20 years. It has cleaned-up beautifully and still looks new. IMHO running a car as it was meant to be run doesn't damage it.

Anyway, welcome to the site and welcome to the world of RC10 ownership. I think you will enjoy your time with your car. Cheers!

[jwscab]

looks great! The associated 'white' parts are more natural nylon and so would be more like a bone or antique white. perfectly normal and good.

[Peter_B]

Hi Peter, that car is looking fantastic -- good job!! I must admit that I haven't read all 97 posts (only quickly scanned them) so please forgive me if this has already been discussed. I think you mentioned you're new to RC10 and that you plan to run your car. If so then I should point out that your car appears to have been equipped with 5 or 10 degree front caster blocks. Depending upon the type of surface on which you will be running the car, with so little caster angle, you may experience some over-steer that can't be corrected. I run my '10's on loose dirt tracks and tend to go with 25 or 30 degree blocks to give them a bit of under-steer. These blocks are still readily available and they are not expensive; I just received some spare 30 degree blocks (#6211) from AMain. You might want to run the car initially and, if it does over-steer and you're not able to correct this with tire changes, consider changing those blocks.

Also, I fully support your decision to run your car. I run all of my cars and yet continue to maintain them in top condition. I'm just wrapping up restoration of a CAT XLS that I've owned for nearly 30 years. BITD I have perhaps 100 or more runs on this car then it sat in the attic for 20 years. It has cleaned-up beautifully and still looks new. IMHO running a car as it was meant to be run doesn't damage it.

Anyway, welcome to the site and welcome to the world of RC10 ownership. I think you will enjoy your time with your car. Cheers!

Thanks.

The caster blocks are the Team Car standard 15 degree ones as far as I know - it's a Team Car and they were on it when it arrived so I'm assuming they are kit standard parts.

I do have a set of black 30 degree blocks. I actually bought them by mistake - I was after some black 15 degree ones to go with a set of black arms.

Only a few things left to do before I can run it.

A future project will be a clean up/restoration of the ProCAT I've had for about 25 years. Also a vintage Top Force that I recently acquired.

I've also found a racing club local to me, so at some point a modern buggy will probably get purchased.

[XLR8]

Okay, so since you've already gotten other caster blocks, you should be set.
Please do post your Schumacher's in the forum here when you can. I would love to see them.
I'm a bit jealous that you have a local track. I'm in northern Alabama now and there are no tracks close-by and had to resort to carving one out in the back yard.

[Peter_B]

Got a bit more done today. The rear axle spacers arrived so I could fit the bearing spacers, outer bearings, axle spacers and drive pins to each rear corner.

I also fitted the nose tubes, battery cup and mounted the steering servo.

Then I noticed something strange.

Whilst admiring my work so far, I started turning the drive shafts and watching the spur gear spin (no motor installed yet). The spur gear was wobbling side to side as it turned!

I checked that it was mounted correctly - it was. I checked that, without the spur attached, the rest of the top shaft assembly ran true - it does. I put the spur back on and it continued to wobble.

I can only assume the spur is warped somehow.

I don't have another spur gear and couldn't find one in stock in the UK, but I have ordered one of these https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202104329839

Will that do the job? It looks like it should fit.

[XLR8]

Hi Peter,

Depending on how warped your gear is, I would not be too worried about it. While Kimbrough makes quality gears, like most injection-molded gears, they also sometimes have some axial run-out (side to side wobble). I have a few of the fully machined spurs from Robinson Racing and they do run very true in both radial (eccentric) and axial run-out. Run-out can result from the molding process. Perhaps you could check your mounting screws to confirm they are tightened equally.

Edit: I believe I have the same Kimbrough gear you have in your link on my B2 and it runs fine - no problems to date.

[lmw94002]

Kimbrough, Robinson, and AE have all been good form me. Back in the day I had Trinity Magic spurs which were awesome in the pan car and my 6gear CE. A little wobble is almost unavoidable in the older stealths with the 2 screws. The new clamping v2 slipper can reduce this I've found. More important though is the mesh once you mount a motor/pinion to make sure you have good/consistent mesh for the full rotation of the spur.

[Peter_B]

Is there a trick to rebuilding the shock seals!

I've got the 6440 rebuild kit and am following the instructions. But I struggled with the first (rear) shock and destroyed a couple of o-rings before I managed to get it done.

The other rear shock went in first try.

Then I struggled again doing the first front shock, and again destroyed a couple of o-rings.

I've now had to stop and order another 6440 rebuild kit as I'm out of o-rings.

What am I doing wrong?