blk05wrx wrote: ↑Mon Aug 06, 2018 12:23 pm
Coming along nicely! Those front springs do look a little short. There are plenty on eBay for the T4 that should fit. If it's a parking lot runner I'd chose a firm spring like Red. I use the silver medium spring for carpet racing at the local track.
That is where the preload starts, so I wasn't sure if that was correct or not. I see some T4 spring on eBay, but will big bore springs work?
Hmm, yeah, those T4 springs might not fit. Haven't tried myself.
After some excellent customer service, I got the Factory Works steering installed. It turns out the older RC10T nose plates didn't have the front holes tapped. Mine are tapped now, and I went with some stainless nuts to top them off.
Any suggestions on NOT screwing up my new MCI decals???
I went with the Savox 1258TG. Now I need the proper length turnbuckle... AND Im finally ready for a battery!
So, please help me find the proper battery. Its built for a 2S, but Im not sure which voltage and amperage to pickup. There seem to be quite a few options. I don't want it to be too fast. Any suggestions on shorty vs regular length? I didn't change the rear bulkhead, so I don't know if a full size battery will fit?
Bonus points for suggestions on the missing box art stickers from the MCI sheet. Specifically the White lettering below the door.
Pick up a re-re bulkhead to use and put the original away for when you decide to restore it.
1S lipo = 3.7v
2S lipo = 7.4v
3S lipo = 11.1v
Stick to 2S 7.4v lipos as thats the "standard" for 1/10 vehicles, you could run 3S if you wanted to but you don’t need it.
The Mah is just the capacity, ie a 6000mah battery in theory will last twice as long as a 3000mah battery. A shorty pack being 2/3 the length of a full size pack is slightly lighter and gives you the option to move it around to adjust the weight balance, a full size lipo is slightly heavier and cannot be used to change the weight distribution. Shorties being smaller naturally have less capacity. I personally use full size packs in my trucks but many use shorties, the choice is yours.
RC10th wrote: ↑Wed Aug 22, 2018 9:42 am
Pick up a re-re bulkhead to use and put the original away for when you decide to restore it.
1S lipo = 3.7v
2S lipo = 7.4v
3S lipo = 11.1v
Stick to 2S 7.4v lipos as thats the "standard" for 1/10 vehicles, you could run 3S if you wanted to but you don’t need it.
The Mah is just the capacity, ie a 6000mah battery in theory will last twice as long as a 3000mah battery. A shorty pack being 2/3 the length of a full size pack is slightly lighter and gives you the option to move it around to adjust the weight balance, a full size lipo is slightly heavier and cannot be used to change the weight distribution. Shorties being smaller naturally have less capacity. I personally use full size packs in my trucks but many use shorties, the choice is yours.
Anything around 5000mah is a good choice.
Thanks, that is quite helpful. There is a large variety of capacity batteries.
Well I finally got it into a running state. Picked up a shorty lipo. This is my first body painted in over 20 years. First time using liquid mask, and first time using an airbrush. I think it turned out pretty good. Its an homage to the box art using colors I like. I still need to find some white stickers to complete the look. I would LOVE a nice vintage sticker for the rear wing... I got some pictures before we go terrorize the parking lot and ball field. The savor servo is WAY faster than I expected. So Im going to call this build a little new and a little old. My inner 12 year old is SUPER stocked to go thrash it some.
Friday I finally got my new project in. The previous owner must have really liked Miller.
Despite the mismatched screws and some maintenance neglect and some incorrect parts like shocks and wheel it was in pretty good shape. Also pretty...
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Going through some stuff i realized I had an extra set of truck threaded shock bodies. The shocks on this car weren't a matching set and on top of that the silver front bodies don't seem to seal up to the newer style of cartridges very well. I...
Going threw boxes I forgot I even owned this one . It has got to be the fifty plus thing , memory , hearing , eye sight . It looks complete other than the servo mounts and gear cover. I have got that covered . Maybee a flysky radio and a cheap...
So might as well start a thread for this. Going to build a 10T runner. I have a chassis that got some peroxide leaching on it, so I thought it would be a good chassis to use. Here is what I'm starting with :):
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Sorry was playing with buttons to see what they did, :lol: :oops:
Anyhoo... Going to give this build some love in the coming days. Stay tuned! ;)
I have been working on this one off-and-on for the past month or so. It has started making some progress as of late most notably, the power plant :shock: . To keep up with it better just click here RC10T project .
Now for some pictures :D.
I...
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I used RC 10T dogbones, originals not universals on my ultima truck conversion. One day I'm standing on an onroad-tracks starting grid, the flag goes down and my truck rolls for less than a meter: the ball-end wast twisted of.
I was only using a...
This is my new project, a 10T that I hope to turn into a relaible runner for some practice sessions on a back garden track more suited to a truck than a buggy.
Plans so far are to use GT/T2 arms and CVD`s that I have along with a B4 slipper etc
Any...
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Short gives better rear traction......long gives more steering Reverse that :wink:
explain please
SWB rotates the rear end faster and transitions weight faster ie- more reactionary. LWB slows the reaction time of weight transfer and continues...
Heres my 10t runner , currently setup with a Lrp V6 and Speedworks 16t motor. I wanted to give it a Factory Team look so I added some blue parts to it , actually saved a bit weight replacing the steel components and screws. Since I mainly just speed...
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nice I want a body like that I found a clear one on the bay but they want like $75 for it...so...Ill keep searching...lol Truck looks awesome BTW Go check out mine...
I recently acquired 2 RC10T's (thanks to GoldRush and another fellow RC enthusiast). I will make one a runner and the other a back-up that will be made into a backyard truck to play with the kids.
I have taken some of the better spare parts and...
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It looks really good. Also it looks more like a #7035 team truck. Does it have bearings and rear universals? The 7035 came with universals swing shafts instead of dog bones as well as bearings with the hard anodized shocks. The 7011 kit had gold...
it makes me miss the 10T I sold to jimbo !!
The savor servo is WAY faster than I expected. So Im going to call this build a little new and a little old. My inner 12 year old is SUPER stocked to go thrash it some.
