So, what did you do RC today?

[TRX-1-3]

Swapped out some shock caps. These seem to be the hue needed for the purposes of this exercise.

[ZED32]

Put some new wheels on the rc10 and took it to the track. Rebuilt 6 gear transmission since the last one ate the idlers. Unfortunately, this one doesn't seem much good either. Binding up and won't accelerate well. Feels notch-y. Wheels lock when off throttle. Makes a horrible whining noise. I am this close to saying screw it and buying a stealth.

[juicedcoupe]

I've had to shim the top shaft, between the gears before (in the thrust bearing area). Everything will feel good until you get the diff tight, then it starts binding.

I've had to shim between the diff tube and bearing, because the outer bearing race was rubbing against the tube. I've seen it with AE and Jammin (new!) tubes.

I've had to press the bearing carriers in tight (against the edge of the desk) as well. Everything looked good but the E clip was tight against the bearing.


But I have fifteen six gear transmissions, some with various aftermarket parts. So by the law of averages, I'm bound to run into a few problems.

[R6cowboy]

Tested at least a dozen used esc's to find out what works and doesn't. Luckily only had one dud.

[mtbkym01]

Went to one of our LHS who has had to relocate due to a fire next door to their old shop, which damaged the store ceiling too much. So was keen to check out their new store, and saw a 1/16 Jrx2 in the classic livery on the shelf. Got a great deal so couldn’t resist

[ZED32]

I took my stampede to the beach and realized I forgot the transmitter at home

[RogueIV]

This actually happened last weekend but yeah, when they say the stock diff gear is made of butter on the Optima Mid rere they weren't kidding.

Car only had about 5x 5min runs on it with a 13.5 on turf. Slipper was set properly.

[carloco8]

This actually happened last weekend but yeah, when they say the stock diff gear is made of butter on the Optima Mid rere they weren't kidding. IMG_20250705_201126893.jpg

Car only had about 5x 5min runs on it with a 13.5 on turf. Slipper was set properly.

Yup, those ball diffs have no durability at all. The only way to not strip them is if you are maybe running a silver can motor or set your slipper loose enough so it is screaming all the way around the track. The actual plastic they use is just simply not right for diff gear material, especially with a narrow metal idler gear. Grab a set of gear diffs and then you can really push the rere optima/mids and ultimas to the limit!

[RogueIV]

This actually happened last weekend but yeah, when they say the stock diff gear is made of butter on the Optima Mid rere they weren't kidding. IMG_20250705_201126893.jpg

Car only had about 5x 5min runs on it with a 13.5 on turf. Slipper was set properly.

Yup, those ball diffs have no durability at all. The only way to not strip them is if you are maybe running a silver can motor or set your slipper loose enough so it is screaming all the way around the track. The actual plastic they use is just simply not right for diff gear material, especially with a narrow metal idler gear. Grab a set of gear diffs and then you can really push the rere optima/mids and ultimas to the limit!

Yeah already have the parts on order with my LHS. Sure would be nice if they just made it as a kit though, having to order 3 different skus to make a whole diff is annoying, more annoying that they don't list it in the manual for the Worlds. The car is capable of keeping up with the modern buggies though, aside from this.

[carloco8]

Unfortunately I started with the regular optima mid kit so I wasted money buying the ball diffs as an option part only to then go back to the stock gear diffs LOL. Agreed the chassis definitely has some good pace and if you trim the gear cover a little bit you can fit big bore shocks on the rear as well.

[juicedcoupe]

Did a little more work to the Sassy Chassis RC10.

Trimmed up some Traxxas turnbuckles and dug some decent looking ball cups out of the stash. The hex design has the correct look for the car but getting a 4-40 ball cups on kinda sucks.

Swapped out the springs and cups. Tamiya fronts with RC10 deep cups. CRP rears with Frankentruck cups. Upper locators are also from Frankentruck.

Found a RPM gear cover and a battery strap. Drilled a stainless 4-40 screw for the body pin.

Even though I will eventually replace them, I found a better looking front tower and cleaned up a damaged spot on the rear.

[XLR8]

Finished the twins.