project junkyard dog-AKA- it's a faux faux world(s)-UPDATES!

[jwscab]

yep, that is the plan! I just didn't realize it was so far off!

[jwscab]

no real updates for this other than my spiffy new battery brace.....I made it so that it securely holds Nicd/Nimh/Lipo hard case by selecting the proper holes. I hate cutting up battery braces to allow for the cables, and I don't like how the other bracket/strap jams up under the bulkhead cup, so this design offers benefits over the other options, plus it's simple to build. The thumb-nuts are some kind of standoffs I found, I'll have to add some knurling when I get the lathe up and running.

waiting on some new shock parts and balls and ball cups from tower to complete the shocks and tie rod links. I picked up a nice set of lunsford titanium turnbuckles so they will go on.

so the next items will be to fab up a bulkhead/trans brace, and a fiberglass 'faux' worlds tower, to match the standard fiberglass tower I have, and that should about wrap it up. Need to pick up some white 4-40 and 8-32 nuts for the axles and shock stays.

[Seabass]

I really like the battery brace man, that is very sharp. I may have to do that myself on my car. Very nice work and allows the use of several different batteries without the problems.

Thanks for the pics and please keep them coming.

Jake

[jwscab]

yeah, the idea kind of gel'ed in my head based on the truck braces that associated made with the two front pegs. Then trying to fit a few packs, i determined they were all slightly different, so i added some holes. I still have to find some nice thin foam rubber to place on the chassis and brace to provide some cushion. The added plus is that all the nylon I had was white, so I didn't have to use a black battery cup or find a white one.

if you want any details or dimensions of the brace, just let me know....

[burnsmonkey]

no real updates for this other than my spiffy new battery brace.....I made it so that it securely holds Nicd/Nimh/Lipo hard case by selecting the proper holes. I hate cutting up battery braces to allow for the cables, and I don't like how the other bracket/strap jams up under the bulkhead cup, so this design offers benefits over the other options, plus it's simple to build. The thumb-nuts are some kind of standoffs I found, I'll have to add some knurling when I get the lathe up and running.

waiting on some new shock parts and balls and ball cups from tower to complete the shocks and tie rod links. I picked up a nice set of lunsford titanium turnbuckles so they will go on.

so the next items will be to fab up a bulkhead/trans brace, and a fiberglass 'faux' worlds tower, to match the standard fiberglass tower I have, and that should about wrap it up. Need to pick up some white 4-40 and 8-32 nuts for the axles and shock stays.

You ever consider producing a few and selling them? At a decent price I would buy a set. Dont want to pay $25+ for a Works hold down.

[jwscab]

I've considered making a bunch of parts over the years for rc and full size cars, honestly, I can just never get myself to go and build a bunch of things, without definite buyers already on the hook, then I'm committed, and then I have the responsibility, hahhahhah......

I suppose I could spin up a few more, since I do have a couple other cars, and spare material. If they don't sell, I can always use 'em. I like how this one came out, so I'd make them again. this one in the pictures is just a freehand, measure and cut-as-you-go to make it fit, so I would draw it up and make a template if I was going to make more.

Another update though, pics will follow sometime later, hopefully tomorrow. I found a dirt cheap way to get ball bearing steering. Using 4 5/16" x 3/16" flanged bearings, some brass or aluminum tube, and traxxas part number 2543, bellcrank set. These are almost identical in placement for the main pivot, and outer ball link hole for the stock associated part, the only thing slightly different is that the center link is located slightly closer to the shock tower, but that should be of no consequence. The only gotcha is that you need to ream out a 3/16" OD brass or aluminum tube so that it just slides over the 8-32 screws. this was tough, but i managed to pull it off. I'll take some photos of how it all goes together, but the bellcrank set from tower is UNDER 5 bucks, and they are white! The only other thing is that they might stand too high on the chassis, but you can drill through completely to get rid of the inner shoulder, and shave off part of the bottom of the cranks, so that the bearing sits flush.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJE91&P=7

[jwscab]

here are pics of the steering parts:

[SteveK]

I would suggest making both front and rear towers from the same material. You have a custom tub might as well make more custom parts for it.

i agree, go with front & rear custom carbon
bulkhead looks like a good match to the rest of the parts

You can dye fiberglass. It takes longer than the nylon parts, and anything other than black is hit-and-miss, but you can do it.

[badhoopty]

that battery hold-down is killer.

[Soncho Ponza]

Are those factory chassis a milled standard black or were they first of the thicker material that the team guys milled out before the kits came out with them for the worlds kit. Your steering link has given me a whole diff outlook for steering ideas and replacememnt parts. You r using parts right under my nose that i have used on other builds just never put connection to try on rc10...Sometimes i get lost in too many other ideas. COOOOOOL

[jwscab]

the factory guys had the standard gold tubs modified before they started manufacturing the 7075 chassis with the milling done to them. Some pics were posted earlier in this thread, actually! Heck, I might even have an old factory chassis here, who knows!

with so many parts being obsoleted and getting harder to find, I try and see what is out there that might make a good substitute. fortunately, traxxas and to some extent losi and kyosho all made similar cars, so most parts are very very close, with some minor work, they fit with no problem.

for instance, losi and traxxas front end parts practically fall onto an rc10. losi and traxxas rear hubs the same. the stealth main diff gear fits in the trx1 transmission, rc10 battery boxes will bolt right into some traxxas cars, etc etc. works to our advantage!

thats why I love the whole 'whats old is new' thread. lots of guys experimenting with off the shelf parts to see what fits....

[jwscab]

I FINALLY have it sitting on it's own two wheels!!

The list of fabricated parts is:
Battery brace
Rear shock tower
Rear trans brace/shim
nose tubes

there is some binding with the lunsford? turnbuckles and the RPM ball cups in conjunction with the traxxas steering parts, though I think this would apply even with houge or anything else that raises the ball location. I may have to switch the inner steering cups with some stock white ones, if I can find them. it's only at the extreme suspension compression where the cups rub.

finally glad to get something close to finished! still need a few e=clips, and need 2 white shock bushings, and I see that the shock bladders allow you to see a bit of gold under the shock caps, will have to find a gasket or something to stick in there. some of the parts will need to be bushed also, i found out the front suspension mounts are a bit worn.

enjoy!

[m_vice]

looking good jwscab. nice work on the fab parts.

[Y'ernat Al]

no real updates for this other than my spiffy new battery brace.....

Spiffy is right! That idea just might get legs as the battery cup thing is a 26+ year old design that is more problematic than ever with today's power supply variations. Nice job!

I still have to find some nice thin foam rubber to place on the chassis and brace to provide some cushion.

P.S. Tower still has the battery foam for the T2..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2971

[askbob]

Never saw this Joe. Looks sweet!