Associated 6 Gear Transmission Rebuild and Bearing Upgrade.

[jwscab]

you should be able to run a 4-40 die over the threads if they are stripped. The original thread is 5-40, so same thread pitch, just different diameter.

otherwise, look to ebay for a replacement. I saw a trackmaster 'long' version on ebay just yesterday.

[tommykart]

thanks just saw that and another on there not long shaft, was thinking of buying a spare trans or maybe go to a stealth, cant make up my mind

[tommykart]

well i just disassembled the new project's trans and there were a couple of issues. 1) idlers wore a little funny because the e clip was installed upside down and was extremely loose 2) the head of the button head screws are stripped out - yes stripped no problem with other screws

tomorrow i am going to take a chisel to the head and see if i can turn it out , any other suggestions welcome

also i had problems getting the gear off the diff tube. here is my trick .... found a big enough washer that the gear would fit through, put the washer in the vice and put the gear up through the washer so the teeth of the gear could rest on the washer. then i used a punch and lightly tapped the diff tube though the gear until it came out, make sure to remove nylon bushing first.

[tommykart]

well mission accoplished, i am glad they didn't use CA glue on the screws. i got them all to start turning with the wood chisel and then either used a tiny jewelers slotted screw driver or the mini allen to turn it the rest of the way out Lucky for me i had a dozen of those tiny screws laying around when i did this to my edinger 20+ yrs ago

[citaria]

Looking time since this thread was active but I'm hoping an expert can pop in and offer advice.

I'm rebuilding a 6 gear transmission and just can't see to get it right. It has been so long since I've built one that I am unaware of the signs it is being assembled correctly.

So I have a few questions and observations I need guidance with:

- Outdrives don't turn when I tighten the two hands of the tranny together. I'm not trying to tighten it extremely hard simply trying to get a good seal on the two halves. What could be causing this?

- the differential hub ring, should the white plastic piece the bearingg sits in be loose?

- the diff tube, silver piece with long tube that slides into the little gear looking piece. Is that supposed to fit in there snugly? As in not be able to move? Or loosely. I don't want to cram it in there if it is supposed to spin freely but since the case won't close I'm wondering if this isn't tightened enough and that's the room I need.

- when all said and done correctly what "behavior" is expected? When I turn on wheel the other should turn opposite of this correct?


I've managed to out the parts where they need to be but without knowing the desired result I'm stuck.

Forgive my newbie questions here!

Frank...

[Bottom Feeder]

- Outdrives don't turn when I tighten the two hands of the tranny together. I'm not trying to tighten it extremely hard simply trying to get a good seal on the two halves. What could be causing this?

Are you sure the bearings in the outdrives are fully seated? There is a very small difference between fully seated (retaining clip also) and working properly, and a little off causing case rubbing. I don't recall having any issues on the six-gear Graphite I bought decades ago but my new Classic had a bum outdrive that would not let the bearing seat all the way and case it to rub the case. The difference was about two hairs' width but that made all the difference in functionality. With a good outdrive the bearings will fall into place with very little fuss. Make sure you clean out the outdrives with motor spray and a Q-tip, even new ones. Any gunk in there at all will cause issues.

- the differential hub ring, should the white plastic piece the bearing sits in be loose?

It should be snug but not loose, both the bearing into the adapter and the adapter into the case. And of course, the bearing should spin freely.

- the diff tube, silver piece with long tube that slides into the little gear looking piece. Is that supposed to fit in there snugly? As in not be able to move? Or loosely. I don't want to cram it in there if it is supposed to spin freely but since the case won't close I'm wondering if this isn't tightened enough and that's the room I need.

It's a tapered fit. Not pressed with a vice, just a good smack with a wooden or plastic handle is enough to seat it properly. I know it seems like that's not enough to keep it in place and driving the right rear wheel but it is. An addendum to the Classic instructions even tell you to lube it slightly I assume to make removal easier later on.

- when all said and done correctly what "behavior" is expected? When I turn on wheel the other should turn opposite of this correct?

Yes, if the spur gear is held in place, the tires will rotate in opposite directions. There should be a little bit of resistance. It will need to be re-checked and readjusted once it's run.

[citaria]

- Outdrives don't turn when I tighten the two hands of the tranny together. I'm not trying to tighten it extremely hard simply trying to get a good seal on the two halves. What could be causing this?

Are you sure the bearings in the outdrives are fully seated? There is a very small difference between fully seated (retaining clip also) and working properly, and a little off causing case rubbing. I don't recall having any issues on the six-gear Graphite I bought decades ago but my new Classic had a bum outdrive that would not let the bearing seat all the way and case it to rub the case. The difference was about two hairs' width but that made all the difference in functionality. With a good outdrive the bearings will fall into place with very little fuss. Make sure you clean out the outdrives with motor spray and a Q-tip, even new ones. Any gunk in there at all will cause issues.

Ok, I will take a look here. It seems to be seated fine but this maybe the problem if we are talking about a couple of hairs widths being the difference!

- the differential hub ring, should the white plastic piece the bearing sits in be loose?

It should be snug but not loose, both the bearing into the adapter and the adapter into the case. And of course, the bearing should spin freely.

Regarding the white plastic piece, Do you mean snug fitting into the alluminum transmission case? Or snug on the differential hub ring? Because neither of mine are snug.. Wondering if I need a new piece.

- the diff tube, silver piece with long tube that slides into the little gear looking piece. Is that supposed to fit in there snugly? As in not be able to move? Or loosely. I don't want to cram it in there if it is supposed to spin freely but since the case won't close I'm wondering if this isn't tightened enough and that's the room I need.

It's a tapered fit. Not pressed with a vice, just a good smack with a wooden or plastic handle is enough to seat it properly. I know it seems like that's not enough to keep it in place and driving the right rear wheel but it is. An addendum to the Classic instructions even tell you to lube it slightly I assume to make removal easier later on.

Ah, ok. Because lube was to be applied I assumed it was supposed to spin. Those to pieces are to be put together although not too tightly. In other words they don't spin independently.

- when all said and done correctly what "behavior" is expected? When I turn on wheel the other should turn opposite of this correct?

Yes, if the spur gear is held in place, the tires will rotate in opposite directions. There should be a little bit of resistance. It will need to be re-checked and readjusted once it's run.

Thanks much! Your expertise here is greatly appreciated!

Frank...

[Bottom Feeder]

- the differential hub ring, should the white plastic piece the bearing sits in be loose?

It should be snug but not loose, both the bearing into the adapter and the adapter into the case. And of course, the bearing should spin freely.

Regarding the white plastic piece, Do you mean snug fitting into the alluminum transmission case? Or snug on the differential hub ring? Because neither of mine are snug.. Wondering if I need a new piece.

I think you lost me. You have an aluminum transmission case? And by 'differential hub ring' are you talking about the diff tube?

The nylon bearing adapter should be a 'finger press' fit into the nylon(?) transmission case. The metal bearing should be a 'finger press' fit into the nylon bearing adapter (both will be held in place once the transmission is fully assembled). The diff tube should slip inside the bearing with very little if any play and should spin freely.

If the transmission had bronze bushings previously then it's entirely possible that it's worn down the aluminum diff tube which would cause a lot of free play, and that's certainly not something you want in the top shaft of a transmission.

[stingerrray]

Ive been working on my cars again. I hope to do another step by step guide. Glad to see this thread is still alive. What would you folks most like to see?

[stingerrray]

Man I never thought this thread would have 7100 views. I thought it would be many more than that. LOL.

Stingerrray

[klavy69]

Man I never thought this thread would have 7100 views. I thought it would be many more than that. LOL.

Stingerrray

there really isn't much love for the 6 gears. I pry have 50 views on the thread for when I was trying to do some 6 gear repairs

Todd

[stingerrray]

Man I never thought this thread would have 7100 views. I thought it would be many more than that. LOL.

Stingerrray

there really isn't much love for the 6 gears. I pry have 50 views on the thread for when I was trying to do some 6 gear repairs

Todd

Excellent, If you viewed the thread 50 times for your repairs that is just excellent.