RC10 runner project

[ra272]

Wow killer bee!! Very nice paint job, this car is really cool, those wheels are fabulous.

Great!!

[Dr. Robotnik]

Excellent restoration mate and well done on the paint it looks very vintage.

[Mr. ED]

You can be double proud: with the personal parts in it, it is a 2 times winner for me

[wts873]

I like those wheels

[WillyThickfoot]

I need a cigarette !


Dave

[Bugle]

Thanks guys!
Just made some alloy copies of knock off nuts for the rear, looks way better than normal nuts. Need daylight to take a pic though.

[Keyz]

That car looks awesome. Those wheels are uber dope!

[Bugle]

Bent up a wing wire and made some wing to wire mount things, was gonna use black rod but couldn't find it.
Also made a front body mount, had to make it way longer than the original for some reason? The body was sitting hard down on the sides of the chassis with the standard mount + 3 washers and the screw was barely inside the mount. Still have to smooth off the edges of the shell..

[Bugle]

Stuck some protective film on the chassis and motor plate. Ran it at St Ives today in 2wd stock, went sideways into a rut and this was the result
Now I have to run black ones dammit. Though I might see how I go hand machining some new ones like the prototype!

[JK Racing]

That is some awefully red clay/dirt....

what about doing an RPM upgrade with the larger bearings, I could have sworn I saw some in white recently. I will do some digging.

[Bugle]

haha yea damn rain, probably would've been called off normally but it was the last race on the 89 world champ circuit (yea it survived that long!). Still got completely rained out after 1 final..
Track gets leveled now to be replaced with a slab of clay with the track marked out using pipes. Should be a better track but still a shame to see the old track go.

I've got some white RC10T hub carriers I could use I guess. Don't really need larger bearings. I think i'll just machine some new ones and make it thicker up to the balljoint bit. Hopefully it won't crack the bulkhead then!
Should probably buy another junker 6-gear car just for the spare arms and stuff incase I need them.

[minimini]

wooooo..........wonderful restoration work !!........

please count me one set of the aluminium wheels if the production is going to start......many Thx !!......

[Mr. ED]

Tip: if you are using older nylon based parts you want to make sure they hold enoguh water. When nylon 'dries' up it gets a lot more brittle and will easily snap on impact.
Back in the days people would boil their parts, for dying , but also for stress relieve of injection molded ABS parts. Soon they got the impression the dyed nylon parts had a better crash resistance than the original parts.
While it was probably partly psychological it makes sense for vintage parts: some of these parts were stored in dry places for many years. Even if they were not sunlightexposed, some drying up is to be expected.

[call-911]

I believe you Mr. Ed. After dying parts on my old car the nylon parts seemed much more impact resistant. When I broke a rear suspension mount that was boiled, it didn't snap it was more of a tearing effect. Kind of made the parts spongy.

[Bugle]

Thanks, i'll give it a go. I'll do a comparison by boiling one side suspension arms and compare the stiffness to the unboiled ones.

minimini yeah still haven't found out the costs of cnc machining the wheels, hopefully soon!