School me on the stealth #6560
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
I have a 1990 Championship car I installed the Stealth kit into. I also just built a Worlds car and it has its own Stealth. Sorry for the confusion.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Had to change this post, it made no sense without the pictures. Something else I noticed, the diff balls In the CE retrofit snapped in, in the World's diff, they just fell in.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
I just uploaded a bunch of photos showing the cars and the manuals that reference the lube.....no idea where they went. Saw the radioactive symbols and it said uploaded....
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Mach: It seems the issue you had was one or all of the three common stealth issues, misaligned case, incorrectly cut idler gear or top shaft machined incorrectly, right?
I went back and tore it down again last night after your post. My slipper fits fine, plenty of clearance on the backside, I measured the diameter of my idler gear with my micrometer, it's really close; close enough for R/C. However, I spent some time messing with the case. I remembered that when I assembled the World's kit, the transmission "snapped" together. The 4-40 screws did nothing more than hold the transmission to the motor plate.
The #6560 however, does not do this. There is a small gap along the bottom of the case and the transmission will not stay together very well without the 4-40 screws. They actually hold the case together when installed to the motor plate. I didn't notice this before. That would indicate either a bind in the mounting of the gears or a case that's not molded correctly. I wouldn't have noticed this without the World's to compare it to. It's night and day between the two. I also think my Worlds kit was one of the later builds, as it had zero issues anywhere and had nothing missing. From my understanding, the #6560 that I bought is not a vintage Stealth either, rather it was made to convert the earlier cars to the modern transmission. It has the same V2 slipper that the World's car has, correct right?
Edit: changed pull to hold. More accurate information.
I went back and tore it down again last night after your post. My slipper fits fine, plenty of clearance on the backside, I measured the diameter of my idler gear with my micrometer, it's really close; close enough for R/C. However, I spent some time messing with the case. I remembered that when I assembled the World's kit, the transmission "snapped" together. The 4-40 screws did nothing more than hold the transmission to the motor plate.
The #6560 however, does not do this. There is a small gap along the bottom of the case and the transmission will not stay together very well without the 4-40 screws. They actually hold the case together when installed to the motor plate. I didn't notice this before. That would indicate either a bind in the mounting of the gears or a case that's not molded correctly. I wouldn't have noticed this without the World's to compare it to. It's night and day between the two. I also think my Worlds kit was one of the later builds, as it had zero issues anywhere and had nothing missing. From my understanding, the #6560 that I bought is not a vintage Stealth either, rather it was made to convert the earlier cars to the modern transmission. It has the same V2 slipper that the World's car has, correct right?
Edit: changed pull to hold. More accurate information.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Ok, I drove out to the track, made one warm up lap and the car started making a loud grinding sound, same sound as before only really loud and the car wouldn't accelerate. I pulled the gear cover off and held the car while applying throttle. Slipper is spinning, grinding sound coming from right behind it. Idler gear?. Man......I'm putting the 6 gear back in. This stealth will sit while I figure out what the H happened. I'll pull the transmission apart once I get home. I've got to figure out the picture thing here so I can show everything. I really need some guidance here. Pack 1-2 after being built was pretty good. Packs 2-10 were noisy but functional. Pack 11-16 felt like slippage. Pack 17 Dead.
Edit: spelling.
Edit: spelling.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Forget it, it keeps saying my pictures are too big. I give up.
Anyway, I tore the transmission apart and WOW it's toast. Black dust stained everything. Idler gear completely stripped, differential gear completely stripped. Top shaft seems fine (metal). Ball diff still works nice and smooth. So complete gear failure. This thing is nasty inside, it's looks like it was build and run since 1985, not last week.
Anyway, I tore the transmission apart and WOW it's toast. Black dust stained everything. Idler gear completely stripped, differential gear completely stripped. Top shaft seems fine (metal). Ball diff still works nice and smooth. So complete gear failure. This thing is nasty inside, it's looks like it was build and run since 1985, not last week.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
OK, 6 gear cleaned up an reinstalled. Good to Go. I couldn't figure out the picture thing here so if you want to see all the pictures of this destroyed Stealth transmission, there is a thread on RCG called
"RC-10 Championship Edition- New #6560 Stealth Failure"
It was bad enough that I think I'm going to send all this over to Associated and see what they think. I'm not looking for a handout, just maybe a reason why my brand new $90 transmission self destructed in one week under17T and 27T Brushed power.
Edit: more accurate information.
"RC-10 Championship Edition- New #6560 Stealth Failure"
It was bad enough that I think I'm going to send all this over to Associated and see what they think. I'm not looking for a handout, just maybe a reason why my brand new $90 transmission self destructed in one week under17T and 27T Brushed power.
Edit: more accurate information.
- scr8p
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Pics can't be larger tha 250kb. Resize them down to 800x600 or so, or set your camera to take smaller pics.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Success!
Anyway, here is the transmission. The only parts that still work are the slipper and the ball diff, though I'm sure it needs cleaned and re lubed. I'll post the manuals here in a minute that show the different lubing instructions for the #6560 and the new Worlds' Car with the stealth.
Anyway, here is the transmission. The only parts that still work are the slipper and the ball diff, though I'm sure it needs cleaned and re lubed. I'll post the manuals here in a minute that show the different lubing instructions for the #6560 and the new Worlds' Car with the stealth.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Here is the manuals I was referring to: Note the difference in lube instructions. Also, both cars.
- jwscab
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
that looks like a failed idler to me. potentially due to the gear itself, but also possibly due to some contaminant in the gearset, not saying you built it bad, just sometimes things happen. I have noticed that there is often a flap of plastic from the bottom of the case that can get sucked into the gear train because that gear is so close to the edge of the plastic; maybe that is what happened.
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Hi Alan,
I wouldn't be using those cases again, there has to be something seriously wrong!
Amain Hobbies have #6565 cases and #6570 idlers in stock.
The only thing I can suggest with the new cases is to put the two halves together, then
run a drill bit by hand through the 4 bolt holes, from memory a 3mm drill bit.
The bolts should be free but not loose to pass through the cases and thread into the motor plate.
I do the same to my hotted up 6 gears with bearing conversion.
I believe the bolts could pull the cases out of alignment.
Others may think differently but even if I am wrong it still makes assembling the gearbox easier.
Cheers, Dave.
I wouldn't be using those cases again, there has to be something seriously wrong!
Amain Hobbies have #6565 cases and #6570 idlers in stock.
The only thing I can suggest with the new cases is to put the two halves together, then
run a drill bit by hand through the 4 bolt holes, from memory a 3mm drill bit.
The bolts should be free but not loose to pass through the cases and thread into the motor plate.
I do the same to my hotted up 6 gears with bearing conversion.
I believe the bolts could pull the cases out of alignment.
Others may think differently but even if I am wrong it still makes assembling the gearbox easier.
Cheers, Dave.

- GoMachV
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Dave, the problem is he is having problems with the good stuff, and his worlds is fine. Completely opposite of the usual
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Hi Jeff,
Thank you.
What I was suggesting was how I would repair the gearbox so he can use it.
Looking at his picture of the #6565 case, the top shaft hole looks low, I know the pic is on an angle
but when I turn my own cases on approximately the same angle the top shaft does not look as low.
It may just be a optical illusion.
Cheers, Dave.
Thank you.
What I was suggesting was how I would repair the gearbox so he can use it.
Looking at his picture of the #6565 case, the top shaft hole looks low, I know the pic is on an angle
but when I turn my own cases on approximately the same angle the top shaft does not look as low.
It may just be a optical illusion.
Cheers, Dave.

- bully
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Re: School me on the stealth #6560
Looks like contamination failure i think.. What is different with the lube instructions mate? I must be blind or you posted same pic twice 

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