Soncho Ponza wrote:COOL ideas This one is fun to watch
It certainly is!
Would it be possible to cut the top off the front stealth to save room? Or would that weaken it too much?
if you cut out the top part of the front stealth.....then you need to use some materials to cover up the defect..... which I think is not the best solution.....I prefer to keep it intact.....
flipwils11 wrote:Wow this looks really impressive. Never would have thought to use an entire Stealth trans up front and mount the case like that. Very nice.
the brilliant idea of using a front stealth is from Jeff..... the honour belongs to him for sure.... I made some minor modifications only.......
now comes to the front hubs..... as the original RC10 nose plate has a kick-up angle of 30 degrees...... I need to do something to counterbalance this ......
I chose some modern material..... the Durango DEX410 front hub with 21 degrees caster......after that......the overall caster angle would be 9 degrees which I think is more reasonable.....
The Durango parts look great! I wonder what the width will look like with these hubs? The kyosho hubs are the reason I had to make the nose so narrow. Keep us informed!
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gomachv wrote:The Durango parts look great! I wonder what the width will look like with these hubs? The kyosho hubs are the reason I had to make the nose so narrow. Keep us informed!
I have a rough estimation of the front cvd .... it is around 62.5mm long..... which is the same as Kyosho ....
not sure about the exact overall width.....but if it is too narrow.... I can use a thick hexa or rims with more offset...... I need to get the cvd tomorrow.....
minimini wrote:now comes to the front hubs..... as the original RC10 nose plate has a kick-up angle of 30 degrees...... I need to do something to counterbalance this ......
I chose some modern material..... the Durango DEX410 front hub with 21 degrees caster......after that......the overall caster angle would be 9 degrees which I think is more reasonable.....
Are you sure the Durango blocks are 21 degrees by themselves or are they 21 degrees based on the 12 degree kick-up on the DEX410? If they give 21 degrees including the DEX410 kick-up then then they're only adding (or subtracting) 9 degrees of caster. So reversed on the RC10's 30 degree kick-up they would make the overall caster 21 degrees not 9.
It's like with RC10B4 caster blocks...they may say they're 30 degrees but that's based on a 25 degree kick-up....on a 30 degree kick-up they're actually 35 degree blocks.
minimini wrote:now comes to the front hubs..... as the original RC10 nose plate has a kick-up angle of 30 degrees...... I need to do something to counterbalance this ......
I chose some modern material..... the Durango DEX410 front hub with 21 degrees caster......after that......the overall caster angle would be 9 degrees which I think is more reasonable.....
Are you sure the Durango blocks are 21 degrees by themselves or are they 21 degrees based on the 12 degree kick-up on the DEX410? If they give 21 degrees including the DEX410 kick-up then then they're only adding (or subtracting) 9 degrees of caster. So reversed on the RC10's 30 degree kick-up they would make the overall caster 21 degrees not 9.
It's like with RC10B4 caster blocks...they may say they're 30 degrees but that's based on a 25 degree kick-up....on a 30 degree kick-up they're actually 35 degree blocks.
not sure how Durango calculates the caster angle.....but this is the front hub I can find with the biggest caster angle (for 4wd cars) at present moment....... worth to try it anyway .....
I did ask pargu about custom-made a pair of front hubs at 20 degress caster angle.... but he declined....
gomachv wrote:The Durango parts look great! I wonder what the width will look like with these hubs? The kyosho hubs are the reason I had to make the nose so narrow. Keep us informed!
I have a rough estimation of the front cvd .... it is around 62.5mm long..... which is the same as Kyosho ....
not sure about the exact overall width.....but if it is too narrow.... I can use a thick hexa or rims with more offset...... I need to get the cvd tomorrow.....
As I am a bit more familiar with Yokomo stuffs....likely I'll throw in Yokomo rims in this car....so I need to look for longer arms which fit the shallow offset Yokomo rims like those in 91' Works........
Actually I saw this beautifully built Ultima A&L conversion in a Japanese webpage long time ago............really wanted to build one up myself...........but did not know where to get it at that time...... :(
picture courtesy of
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Man I will be watching this one!!! I didn't know there were so many hop-ups for the ultima, too bad they are so hard to find.
I still working on some projects and collecting parts to complete following cars: Losi XX4 Worlds Edition, Yokomo YZ-10, Associated B3, Kyosho Optima Mid Custom Special, Associated TC3 Factory Team, Associated...
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My two racers: B44.3 and B3
The B3 is upgraded with B4 v2 shocks, B4 v2 slipper, Lunsford turnbuckles, RPM ball cups, bumper and gear cover. Custom made G10 rear shock tower
Here's My RC10 Racer Project. It Has a Traxxas 20 Turn Stinger Motor, a Duratrax Sprint 2 ESC, and a Vintage Futaba Radio (original).Its in Pretty Good Condition Other Than A Piece Of **** Body. It Has Bean In The Family For Years. My Dad Bought It...
a few years ago..........I saw a nicely modified Ultima A&L version in a Japanese website........... which got rear trailing arms.........together with a belt-driven gear box..........really want to build one up myself ......... :)
I think A&L did...
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A&L had the aluminum ones I remember, and Houge made the plastic\nylon versions (what I had) houge also made a machined aluminum set of rear arms also
I just started to build one more RC10, I choose a florescent green powder coated chassis to show the A&L stiffner kit, A&L ball bearing steering it and A&L front long shock tower.
I'm looking for a set of NIP AE front...
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send some to ATLAS on here , he seems to be the go to guy for repro chassis parts.
admired the MIP Legend 4-10 for a long long time...........finally got the chance to pick up a complete set few years ago........eventually squeezed some time to get the project started recently.......... :)
the first thing to do is to dye the...
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I don't have a great answer for you but....
You could take the long hpi belt and route it as it should be, and measure how much too long it is. Subtract that from the length of the long belt and you should have a pretty good approximation. You know...