RC12L3 Resto: '87 Buick GNX Build: Finished

[Seabass]

and not be ridiculously fast, I'm hoping?

A 2S battery on a 17.5 is going to be wicked fast Coel. 12 scale racing is typically 17.5 on 1S batteries and they are still whipping around the track.

[EvolutionRevolution]

and not be ridiculously fast, I'm hoping?

A 2S battery on a 17.5 is going to be wicked fast Coel. 12 scale racing is typically 17.5 on 1S batteries and they are still whipping around the track.

60 km/h on an outdoor track is doable.

[Phin]

Plus you'll have to consider that racing 1/12 cars have the down force of a doorstop body helping them keep planted. That Charger body you mentioned using isn't going to do that for you.

[Coelacanth]

Plus you'll have to consider that racing 1/12 cars have the down force of a doorstop body helping them keep planted. That Charger body you mentioned using isn't going to do that for you.

I have a different body in mind, but it won't have much more downforce than the Charger body. I want it to stand out from the others on the track, not win races...I have no aspirations of winning races.

I'm definitely not aiming for 60 mph, that's way beyond my driving ability to control. The one the hobby store guy showed me had a 13.5T motor in it...that seemed ridiculous to me. So what are some suggestions? A 13.5 or 17.5 motor with a 1S LiPo with as high an mAh rating as I can find to increase run-time? Or stick with the 2S pack I linked earlier which has a nice, small footprint, but go with a milder motor?

Thanks all for the tips & suggestions.

[Phin]

I had no concerns about you racing the car when I wrote that post. How could I think about racing when I couldn't get past the image of the car launching itself into backwards somersaults when you got on the throttle.

Though going airborne is a surefire way of being noticed in the crowd.

[Coelacanth]

I received a few items I bought about 2 weeks ago, they arrived while I was in Mexico on vacation...some goodies to dress up this RC12L3 and make it look as cool under the body as the body I plan to buy for it.

[retrorobot]

Hey i wondering where did you order the Gpm hop op parts from?

[Coelacanth]

Hey i wondering where did you order the Gpm hop op parts from?

I got most of it from AsiaTees.com, and the two loose blue hubs from eBay seller Valkyrie, I've bought from him before. He had both for sale but I only needed one, as I bought the GPM one already...we negotiated a deal for both for about $20 shipped. All the parts from AsiaTees I think came to under $20 shipped. Some of it was being cleared out and is only available in certain colors.

Note: AsiaTees' site is slow as molasses, but I just did a search for "rc12l3" and found lots of upgrades, all for quite cheap...probably even cheaper than the stock parts, I'd imagine. And I love AsiaTees because they offer el-cheapo shipping, and don't force international buyers to pay Priority shipping rates. Who needs insurance and tracking on a bloody $20 order, anyway?

I disassembled the chassis and swapped in the alloy goodies last night, but had to get to sleep after taking pics; didn't have time to upload them. I'll update tonight.

[retrorobot]

Cool thanks! Yup i know of asiatees but never bought them before. Your right about the certain colours, especially when its like purple or green hard to match if rest of your chassis is blue. Let me know if the parts fit ok?

I have been kinda afraid to purchase gpm parts. I bought gpm motor mount in the past for my Tamiya f103 and it didn't fit properly. Like the dill hole were slightly off where it mounts to the chassis. So you have to grind away some of the chassis hole to give it space.

I don't know if mine was legit GPM parts because i purchase it from the The ebay seller was rcdamper who list them as GPM. When i got the package it doesn't have GPM labels on them like yours. It came with wrong un-matching ride height spacers making the motor mount useless. They seller was ignoring me. I contact GPM directly and they never got back to me either. I had file a case with ebay Headache.....

my bro also purchase a different motor mount for his F103 like 15 years ago from official GPM and remember it didn't come with ride height spacers, gpm didn't sell them, and can't use the stock tamiya ones. So he had to custom make his own by modifying a Associated spacer

Hopefully everything runs smoothly for you.

[Coelacanth]

Cool thanks! Yup i know of asiatees but never bought them before. Your right about the certain colours, especially when its like purple or green hard to match if rest of your chassis is blue. Let me know if the parts fit ok?

Sure thing...everything fit perfectly. All holes lined up and were machined in the correct Yankee Standard threads. I haven't had any problems with GPM parts yet...knock on--aluminum!

[Coelacanth]

Pics of the chassis reassembled with the goodies swapped in. Blue & purple seem to be the most common upgrade part colors, and I don't want to put too much money into this chassis, so the default chassis color scheme will be blue & purple. I'll be putting a little more effort into the 'Red Tide' Agitator car.

[retrorobot]

Nice job the purple and blue works. Like how you made the rest of the car with bits of purple like the purple socket head washers. A simple cheap upgrade or idea is you can get purple body clips. I think if you change the spring to purple it will tied overall purple scheme together. Feel like middle section missing something purple to bridge the color scheme.

[retrorobot]

Hey I photoshop your car to illustrate this haha. I hope you like it.

[retrorobot]

probably what your car would look like if you bought all those mis-match colour left over parts from Asia tees. They actually sold green L3 parts kinda odd.

[Coelacanth]

probably what your car would look like if you bought all those mis-match colour left over parts from Asia tees. They actually sold green L3 parts kinda odd.

Looks like a Losi now.