scr8p wrote:looks to me like using the sassy chassis as a template for hole placement has kinda bit you in the a$$ again.............
the sassy chassis has 3 degrees of toe in already built into it. because of that, the sides of the chassis by the arm mounts taper towards the bulkhead. that way, the holes will line up with the arm mounts. you used the sassy hole placement, then cut the chassis straight (like a normal chassis), so now you can't attach the arm mount to the chassis.
There was two version of the sassis chassis the 3° and the straight (I have both) but you may be right. My friend had the 3° chassis in hand and a gold stock one. He may have used the wrong one for hole placement. Thanks for that.
fastang wrote:I know you are well into the development of the chassis and it looks really good but what about this idea? Make the front of the chassis 1/2"-3/4" longer and bend it up like the OG gold pan nose plate. This would allow the use of nose tubes with the GT mounts. It would really stiffen up the front end. You'd be surprised how one good lick will bent the front of that chassis.
Otherwise it looks great!
Well we have checked that already. We did a bunch of computer simulations for the force needed to bend the chassis. It's very strong. The aluminum is also thicker than the gold tub. This chassis is WAY stiffer than the sassy chassis too.
AYKBOBCAT wrote:Ok guys... a little update on our project
I just received a few pictures of our chassis assembled with the rest of the parts. It looks very good but we have a few problems to fix as the rear holes do not align properly. We'll fix that of course.
The steering parts will have to be shimed a little to clear the chassis as the original front plate is a bit lower. We'll probably supply shim tubes or something like that with the chassis. It has to be a cheap and simple solution. Here are a few pictures...
Don't pay attention to the orientation of the rear wheels. My friend used the wrong holes on the suspension mounts before taking the picture.
For the final version we will reposition the row of holes back by one hole and anodize the thing (likely black).
Now I need to find a rear bumbper for the graphite chassis to test the position of the two rear holes. If someone has one to spare let me know. Condition doesn't matter it's for testing...
Seems like there would be a lot of flex in the front and the back of this chassis which can be good bit too much is not good. I think that chassis would be a great chassis for some A&L chassis braces? Looks great though please tell us how it's working out.
eBay ID: Nsr250_sp_repsol
Location: McChord AFB, WA
just curious, is the rc10 protech 1 body based of (loosely or whatever) a fullsize buggy chassis? of course it would be from the late 70's/early 80's. i just cant seem to find anything that really looks close. so far a class 9 chenowth is the...
EXO Designs swb classic version chassis & Rc Screwz stainless screw set. Pretty well stock other than universal drive shafts and a Kyosho HD mid gear and a set of Kyosho titanium turn buckles.
this is just a test run. :D In the future i will be making them out of BLUE G10 and the 69 will not be cut through. This was a mistake that i fixed.
I will also be designing some kind of battery strap holder that i am dreaming up in my head. Still...
I found another chassis that was made by Team Losi's Jon Anderson and Jack Johnson because they were on team Kyosho in 4wd. the battery slots are moved forward. only 4 or 5 of them were made...Jack, jon, gil, and steven dunn....
well this chassis has been kicking around on this site for some time. highwayracer got it from andy than sold it to scr8p than i just bought it :). here is the message from highwayracer (I bought a ton of prototype items and which included a few...
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well its done!! IMG_8043.jpg IMG_8044.jpg IMG_8045.jpg IMG_8046.jpg IMG_8047.jpg IMG_8048.jpg IMG_8049.jpg IMG_8050.jpg
finally got some pics of my build going and wanted to post them up here as i build them.
keep in mind this is just a prototype so forgive the crappy welds, they will clean up nicely anyway. i used 3/16 stainless tube (the coated stuff gives off...
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thanks, im planning to make 10 or so, i actually scrapped the above chassis after completing more of it for a simpler design with less welds and more strength, got some advice from the crawler forum.
if i get enough steel to make more, i will make...
just bought this from steven dunn will post more pics once i get it. here is the info on it from him: These chassis were made for the factory drivers to see which length would be better than the stock xx chassis. They were cut in half and shortened...
Ok its time to put this car together I bought this chassis over a year ago thinking of what to do with it. this is the Jrx pro se/ Lx-t prototype chassis losi used to make the mould for the production chassis. now its going to be a shelf queen....
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Yeah, but sold the mould a while back.
I believe the OE SE shell would look better on this car personally.
You are TOTALLY right! I didn't notice. One less trouble thanks!
I'll definitely be buying one. You could also sell them in the natural aluminum so people could add their own finish.
