Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

[GoMachV]

+1 on the outer hole- cause Jammin Jay says so!

[GodSpeed]

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17265__Turnigy_nano_tech_6000mah_2S2P_65_130C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack.html

Will this fit in my car? 138x46x25

[85Edinger]

That Vicious Teknology 5200mah is about the biggest that will fit. Just compare their dimensions if you ever have a battery fit question.
I still think a Vicious, SPC, or SMC of about 5000 mah is the best value.

[GodSpeed]

That Vicious Teknology 5200mah is about the biggest that will fit. Just compare their dimensions if you ever have a battery fit question.
I still think a Vicious, SPC, or SMC of about 5000 mah is the best value.

Okay great, thanks!

It appears to be a mm or two bigger in each dimension (139x48x26) than the Turnigy I linked.

[GodSpeed]

Pretty much done the rebuild now. I'll post more pictures in a bit and will post a complete list of parts and prices once it's all done. I'll tell you one thing, it's not been cheap after buying all new electronics (not even expensive stuff) and motor.

I did notice my original front sway bar is a bit of a mess. It's not symmetrical at all (looks like my dad had difficulty with a solder) and it contacts the spring on compression on one side. There's no fixing it. Should I buy a whole new one or just omit it entirely? Where would I get a new one with those solder-on ends (unless they make a finished product now?) if I did want/need one? I don't see it in the Classic ReRe parts list.

[jwscab]

You can buy more wire at a hobby shop called music wire and rebend your own. Unsolder the balls and add them to the new wire.

[GodSpeed]

You can buy more wire at a hobby shop called music wire and rebend your own. Unsolder the balls and add them to the new wire.

Thanks. Because of the botched soldering job the existing ends are not reusable so would these work?


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3010&P=7

[harvey]

I have used those ends and they are a fine fit with regular 4-40 ball ends (not the stock 2-56 the kit came with). They have a large hole for the wire, probably bigger than the wire you'll use.

[GodSpeed]

Here's how it sits now, just waiting for electronics which have finally all been ordered (see next post).

If you see something wrong or have any suggestions, please don't hesitate. Suspension is set up per original instructions and I realize it's super stiff. I'm going to wait to install all of the electronics before making adjustments though....











Seems to have front and rear toe-in? Tierods are measured to exact measurements in ReRe instructions.






And the paint job my brother did with a brush when he was 8yrs old LOL! I have a new body, wing and decal sheet that I plan to do box art with.

Wut? Not good?

[GodSpeed]

As for electronic stuff, I needed everything to upgrade from old school. Here's what I've bought/ordered...

This is the item I'm most skeptical of but I'm hoping for the best. Specs are good, but there are some reviews reporting shaking.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__43052__TrackStar_TS_915_Digital_1_10_Touring_Car_Buggy_Steering_Servo_45g_10_1kg_0_08sec.html




http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28377__Hobbyking_X_Car_120A_Brushless_Car_ESC_sensored_sensorless_.html




http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17265__Turnigy_nano_tech_6000mah_2S2P_65_130C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack.html




http://www.rcecho.com/FLYSKY-RC-Model-FS-GT3C-3ch-24GHz-LCD-GT3C-Transmitter-GR3C-Receiver-TS897.html




http://www.teamassociated.com/reedy/parts/details/232/







With all of these electronics (ESC, charger, battery x2, motor, servo, transmitter) and the hard parts I ordered to rebuild this thing I'm......wait for it....$637.83 into it. OMFG

And I still need a pinion, paint and I think some sort of wiring to connect everying. If my wife finds out and kills me, bury me with this thing LOL

[GodSpeed]

Any tips for painting? Trim first then paint or paint and then trim? Will the paint crack if I trim afterwards?

What do you use for trimming? Just a sharp pair of scissors or an xacto knife....or a Dremmel cut off wheel? Trim within 2mm or so and then sand the rest of the way?

[85Edinger]

You did not do that the cheap way. Between choosing some high dollar electronics, and replacing some parts that you could have gotten away with modifying or leaving alone, you spent a lot more than you needed to. However, I think the finished result is better because of it. Nice work.
You can do a pretty good job trimming a body with an exacto knife or sharp scissors and a dremel. You can either score and break with the exacto knife, or cut a bit away with sharp scissors and clean up with a Dremel. A body and reamer set isn't that expensive and makes the job a bit easier, but if you're careful you'll be fine without them.
I always trim and ream before painting. That way if you mess up you didn't waste all your work painting, plus it's easier to make the body mount holes. Others will disagree.
Good luck!

[GodSpeed]

I feel like I went "cheap" on the servo, ESC and transmitter but I'm hoping for the best. I read good things about the FlySky GT3 and X-Car ESC on this site. Kind of rolled the dice on the servo. Also read good things about the Turnigy Nano-Tech battery on here and I didn't want to cheap out on mAh or C rating....and I bought 2 of them. I've never run an RC car on LiPo but I remember as a kid that pretty much the biggest disappointment of all RC car usage was losing battery power and short life. Didn't want to re-live that part of it. haha

Definitely dozens upon dozens of less expensive motor options but I wanted that one. I wanted Reedy to keep with original spec.

Didn't know anything about chargers. I just wanted a "good" one that would balance the packs and went with the recommendation of the hobby shop I bought all the hard parts from. I pointed at two different ones in their case (the one I chose and one that was $10 more) and they recommended this one. The other had a touch screen but only a 6mo or 1yr warranty vs. the 5yr warranty on the Onyx.

The hard parts just added up like crazy. Each one was like $2-$5 bucks which I thought was super cheap but my initial order was over $230! I initially ONLY needed the slipper nut and spring to rebuild this thing but then I stumbled upon this site, was advised to rebuild the trans with all new gears and bearings and it just snowballed from there.....big time.

I sure hope this is a really fun, well built car that offers very little trouble and down time for myself and the boys.

Thanks for the tips on trimming and painting. Appreciate it and all of the other advice you and the others have offered throughout this rebuild.

[GodSpeed]

Regarding the super stiff suspension, what do you think about these for front and rear alternatives:

Front (Blue) --

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBGK8&P=Z

Rear (Green) --

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2784&P=Z

[GodSpeed]

Got some more stuff to complete this build....




Rears are on order as well --










FlySky GT3C only took 8 days to get from Hong Kong to Canada, but the package was missing the LiPo battery that is supposed to be included --