Finaly built an RC10...

[Jay Dub]

Well, I finally built an RC10 for a the J Concepts Nationals in 2 weeks. I have never raced one, and haven't run 2wd in 15 years, so I thought why not. I picked up this almost new (poorly listed) team car off e-bay for $40 bucks RTR about a year ago, and decided now was the time to get it ready. The car has all new parts accept for the chassis. built it with the usual mods, like the B4 slipper assy., Updated shocks (Kyosho Velvets), aluminum MIP CVD's, worlds car steering assy., and a few other worlds and custom made parts. I took it to the A Main racing facility yesterday in Chico California (where the race is being held) for a full day of testing. By the end of the day, the car was pretty good. I really had to be on top of the car however to keep it fast and consistent. I left the track with a laundry list of mods and things to get ready for the race in two weeks. Unfortunatelly, I wont be able to practice between now and the race, but at least the car is in the ball park and I got the first (and in this case VERY necessary) day of testing out of the way. -Jeff

[shane]

Very nice, I would be interested in what your final setup is, and how you do.
Good luck, my rc bro!

[amp_driven]

Very nice build,
with very nice accessories.
Let us know how well you like that motor.
It should have plenty of torque.

[Seabass]

Whoa, very nice.

How do you like the Velvets? I put a set on one of my cars and I am very happy with them. I just wish they didn't cost so much.

Nice car.

Jake

[nsr250_repsol]

Nice build! I like the b4 wing mount and sliper mods!

[Mikeyboy]

Clean looking rig!

[cyclepsych0]

Very nice build you have there! I just have a quick question for all you guys running the B4 wing mounts.... How are you trimming the bodies of your cars to fit between that narrow space and still reach the rear body mount? Anybody have some body-on / wing-off shots of this?

[JHarris]

Mine have the back of the body cut off. If I'm using the 6160 body I Velcro it on. If I'm using a Mirage I use tall body mounts secured to the bottom of the chassis. I will try to get you pics this evening.

[Brandon G]

What body are you running on the buggy? Also, what was your laundry list of needed mods? Just curious.

Nice buggy BTW!

[JHarris]

I assume (based on the .75oz weight in the front) you have a problem with push. Is it on power or off power? What oil and springs are you running? Caster blocks? If it's on power how much rear toe and anti-squat are you running?

[Jay Dub]

Here is the body I am going to be running. I will be cutting holes in it for the wing mount to pass through, as I really like having the rear of the body on the car (personal preference).

As for the weight, It is actually 1.25 oz in the front. At this point it is more of an experiment. I have yet to nail down the final bias on this car. I would be suprised if it didn't change. The car is actually really good, accept for a few small quirks because of stock geometry and the shocks I have chosen. I am (as we speak) machining new front towers on the cnc ( I will post pics tonite). This particular track is a very hard packed clay-ish blue groove track. It has several rythm sections, elevation changes, large table tops, and a pair of off camber turns, including an off camber horse shoe that incorporates a negative, elevation change.

The car has plenty of acceleration, and corners well. I am even suprised by how well it jumps. The issues I am facing are a lack of up travel (because of the shocks I have chosen in the front, and too much camber gain in the rear, as well as stock geometry limitations). The new towers have higher mounting points for the front shocks, as well as a revised tie rod location. I am also planning a little front hub carrier modification to allow for less camber gain.

The stock rear geometry needs a real overhaul for this type of track. Firstly It needs less camber gain for better forward bite, and this will also help flatten the rear so when it does break loose it will be more consistent. I am looking at the B4/B44 rear hub setup, as this may provide what I need (less camber gain, and more up travel). As for oil/piston combos. I am running Assoc. 25 in the rear, and 35 in the front. The pistons are Kyosho, 2B front with one hole glued, and 2b rear with one hole glued, and the other drilled to .061. This provided very good pack, and static dampening on this particular track. In the front I am using Assoc. blue springs. I found that these springs are much longer, and need to be layed in more to have the proper spring rate progression ( then the rest of the spings in the series). Without it, the car seemed to die a little in the middle of the corner. I also found that the ride height had maxed out with these longer springs, and this is the other reason for the longer front tower. Rear spings are Losi oranges, with HPI spring cups (their diameter matches the losi spring). This setup might seem heavy, but again, this is a smooth high bite track.

The car is really quite responsive, and carries great speed in all the corners accept for the off camber pair. I am thinking this is where the geometry change will help. It also has excellent on power and off power steering.

I am running the std. 25* castor blocks, and they seem about right. I should know better when I make these changes If I am on with the caster. In the rear, I am running the 3* inner mounts, and 0* outer. So far it seems good, but I think it may be a "last resort" type of thing going to 1.5*/1.5* inner outer as I don't have much time for practice before the race. -Jeff

[JHarris]

I would prefer the back of the body remain on the car, but I also know that chopping it off and using velcro was something we did back in the day so doing it now is pretty authentic for how we raced them. I never did that to a Mirage body, until now. Here's a pic of a car I build that runs the Mirage with the rear section removed for the wing mounts. The body mounts are down in the chassis.

[Jay Dub]

Very nice, clean and simple Jeff.

Here are the pics of the front tower I just cut. I need to mount it to the car to check for proper travel before I cut another. -Jeff

[Charlie don't surf]

Jeff, you want to cut me a few of those? - Nice!

[losiXXXman]

Is this the mod you are going to do? I was prepping a set of white RC10 hubs to run on a B2, but decided to throw them on my RC10. (The RC10 is looking like it will be completed first.) Used the B3 kingpin/ball stud combo, and some shims. THe shims would also allow minor roll center adjustment due to placement...