Soldering Iron Recommendation

Post by **bscotti** » Thu May 17, 2007 10:34 am

Well, my iron has finally died. So, I'm wondering what one you guys suggest. I'd like it to have enough oomph to assemble battery packs and and connectors.

Post by **scr8p** » Thu May 17, 2007 10:52 am

i have a 60 watt blue point soldering station that i bought from snap-on about 13-14 years ago. hasn't failed me once in all those years. it gets used alot, too.

ungar and weller irons are also quality units.

Post by **mrlexan** » Thu May 17, 2007 11:00 am

Weller, enough said.

Post by **Weave** » Thu May 17, 2007 12:13 pm

The most popular brand of iron at my area track is Hakko. The 936 model is very popular and is the one I use. It's available for around $100. I got mine from Stormer Hobbies

Post by **aconsola** » Thu May 17, 2007 12:14 pm

I have 3 irons that I use.
a 15 watt grounded fine tip for small electronics work:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062728
a 40 watt for general use:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062738
and a 60 watt used mostly for batteries
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=7
I also use one of these stands:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062740

It would probably have been smarter to get a good adjustable iron, but all of the above only costs about $30

-Anthony

Post by **RC10WORLD** » Thu May 17, 2007 1:02 pm

Cheap as chips... $35

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307

Post by **Eau Rouge** » Thu May 17, 2007 1:37 pm

The Hakko 936 is a great unit. I'll never buy another iron.

I wouldn't trade mine for another brand at all.

Post by **bscotti** » Thu May 17, 2007 1:39 pm

Wow! Thanks for all the choices!

Post by **covell2** » Thu May 17, 2007 2:50 pm

Another vote for hako 936, great iron. Kiesub electronics have them for 77.95.

Post by **Mr. ED** » Thu May 17, 2007 9:54 pm

When I was doing some mechanics for a slotracing team I used the solder station from Weller.
With siver solder it was a must
(the pinion had to be soldered on the moter and the moter onto the chassis: a slab of Steel sheet.)

These things will guaranteed solder tabs and wires onto a cell before the cell heats up.

Post by **FlyinGN** » Fri May 18, 2007 7:22 pm

DON'T get a weller soldering gun.. They are only one for a minute then automaticaly go off for 5 minutes!! Horrible.I threw my new one away i hate it so bad.

Post by **Mr. ED** » Fri May 18, 2007 7:38 pm

FlyinGN wrote:DON'T get a weller soldering gun.. They are only one for a minute then automaticaly go off for 5 minutes!! Horrible.I threw my new one away i hate it so bad.

I used the stations for the slot cars, no problem there.

The protection on the guns must be a """new""" thing.
My own weller solder gun is older than my oldest car (about 20 years!)

Post by **FlyinGN** » Fri May 18, 2007 8:16 pm

well. I owned an old weller gun (about 25 years old) and I thought it was going bad. It was hot and then cold.. hot then cold. Nothing was said about that in the instructions. I threw it away and bought a new one. IN the new instructions it DID mention that feature. Horrible idea.. They BOTH did it..

Post by **badhoopty** » Fri May 18, 2007 10:24 pm

i'm still using a 10buck tower hobbies el-cheapo.

Post by **97T595** » Mon May 21, 2007 2:35 pm

THE BEST IRON TO SOLDER BATTERYS AND SUCH I USE A LEADING SOLDERING IRON THAT YOU CAN FIND AT HOBBY LOBBY OR A CRAFT STORE, ITS A MONSTER 100W IRON SOLDERS BATTERY AND WIRE LEADS SUPER QUICK W/O HAVING TO HEAT UP WHAT YOUR SOLDERING AND ARE ONLY ABOUT 20 BUCKS OR SO . AND FOR NORAMAL USE I HAVE A HAKO 936

RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community