Lipo battery & brushed ESC & motor...

[SoAzRC]

Okay, I'm sure this is answered somewhere, but I haven't found it yet. I want to run a Lipo with brushed electronics. The only problem I see is the low voltage cut-off. Any other problems? Is there some cheap cut-off I could fab or buy? I bet the fly-guys know as they've been running lipo a longer time... thanks

[SoAzRC]

I've stumbled into a couple lipo conversion threads now and have answered most of my questions, but still need some advice on the LVC. Any recommendations or circuit diagrams available? How would you wire an inexpensive alarm TO THE battery, not the ESC? I understand this isn't a problem in standard length racing events and if you watch for a performance drop-off, but I'd still feel safer with an alarm... thanks

[Orange]

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Novak-5476-Smart-Stop-Auto-Detect-Cut-Off/dp/B005BZNG4G

Info for it: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/lipo_cutoff_module/index.html

Or this is a warning system:

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-LiPo-Voltage-Warning-Module/dp/B004EI4YNS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_t_3

Info for this one: http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN4073

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I'm not recommending that you run without lipo cutoff, but I don't run them unless it just happens to be built into the esc that's in that car. Just shut it down as soon as you see the first sign of performance loss. I've done this for years and have never had a single issue. Also make sure to disconnect the battery when you put the car away. It will seep away at the pack if it's plugged in.

[Orange]

That is fine also because performance loss usually occurs WELL before the point any ESC or LVC would cut off a battery. I usually store my batteries around half charged if I'm not going to charge them for a while.

[longboardnj]

id just time how long your running .. id say run it for 10 min then shut it down if you want to be safe.. i dont think you should run lipo with brushed motors.. unless your running a stock motor the lipo seems to kill brushed motors..

[mark in wi]

id just time how long your running .. id say run it for 10 min then shut it down if you want to be safe.. i dont think you should run lipo with brushed motors.. unless your running a stock motor the lipo seems to kill brushed motors..

How does the LiPo hurt the brushed motors? I'm not trying to be a pain but I was going to run mine on the lipo so I don't want to hurt it. I would think it would be similar to running 7-8 cell batteries in the olden days. if I am wrong let me know so I can run my NiMh which is still better then the old 1200 scr packs i have.

[longboardnj]

id just time how long your running .. id say run it for 10 min then shut it down if you want to be safe.. i dont think you should run lipo with brushed motors.. unless your running a stock motor the lipo seems to kill brushed motors..

How does the LiPo hurt the brushed motors? I'm not trying to be a pain but I was going to run mine on the lipo so I don't want to hurt it. I would think it would be similar to running 7-8 cell batteries in the olden days. if I am wrong let me know so I can run my NiMh which is still better then the old 1200 scr packs i have.

"I would think it would be similar to running 7-8 cell batteries in the olden days" .. yea you got it.. id run 9 cell and 12 cell back in the day and get the same effect. its not like the lipo blows up the motor it just wears the out really fast. if you run a mod motor the lipo power heats it up more then any 3000 6 cell nimh ever would and the brushes need replacing alot with lipo.. my buddy ran lipo and mod motors he got tired of the brushed motor issues real quick.. the reason i say if you do it try a stock motor is cause you still get the lipo power but the motor/ brushes will last longer.

[SoAzRC]

I am going to run "stock" P2K and P2K Pro. I have at least four still in the package. I was big into rebuilding motors and have the comm lathe, the brush serrator, and TONS of brushes, springs, end bells. I believe most of my old NiMHs are shot, although I'm going to cycle them a couple times to be sure. I guess I don't see how the LiPos affect wear either. I mean, voltage is voltage. One is 7.2v and drops off at a different rate than the other which is 7.4v, but what would increase the "wear"... longer run times? I don't understand how the power source would affect the motor in a DC setting...

[biff85ta]

I would think the extra wear has to do with the extra amperage available. There is a lot more amps available with a lipo from beginning to end.

[8rad]

http://www.hobbypartz.com/libaprforcar.html

This is what I use.

You said cheep right?

[mark in wi]

I'll have this test. I have a MVP motor that is getting very warn, even under on load, with a LiPo. I haven't tried it with NiMh so I will have to try that and see if there some hope. I'll let you know what happens.

[longboardnj]

I would think the extra wear has to do with the extra amperage available. There is a lot more amps available with a lipo from beginning to end.

yes .. take a 10t brushed motor,look at the brushes . now put that motor in your rc. get a good 2 cell lipo and get 3 full charged runs in then look at the brushes. racing 27turn to 19turn brushed motors are the only way to get good brush life with lipo.. just my opinion ..

[markbt73]

I run my RC10CE on a 2s lipo pack and a standard Johnson RS540 silver-can. Between them is an Associated XP SC200 ESC, which has a lipo cut-off built in. It's my new favorite combination: no maintenance, long run times, no cogging/stuttering like you get with some of the cheap brushless systems, and enough snort to be fun, but not so much I worry about breaking anything. It feels and looks about equivalent to the old "outlaw stock" motors on nicads, speed-wise, but with five times the run time. And if it kills the motor eventually, big deal; there's more where that one came from.

[longboardnj]

I run my RC10CE on a 2s lipo pack and a standard Johnson RS540 silver-can. Between them is an Associated XP SC200 ESC, which has a lipo cut-off built in. It's my new favorite combination: no maintenance, long run times, no cogging/stuttering like you get with some of the cheap brushless systems, and enough snort to be fun, but not so much I worry about breaking anything. It feels and looks about equivalent to the old "outlaw stock" motors on nicads, speed-wise, but with five times the run time. And if it kills the motor eventually, big deal; there's more where that one came from.

you got the pinion to clamp on right? thats why im not a big fan of stock tamiya motors shaft is too short and the bushing on the mount side is to large for some applications.. i like last of the old pro 27 turn and 19 turn race motors that had fixed timing and the capacitors already mounted on the end. if i was to buy a new brushed motor id buy a axial 27 or 20 turn motor. i use the 20 turn axial in a b4 i have. it runs good and the axial motors have a longer shaft(more room for mounting pinions). they look like they have thicker wires then the tamiya motor too. axial still has the large bushing on the mount but a little sanding of the motor plate and it fits in a b4/t4/sc10 .