yea i cant wait to see whats under the black tape the seller stuck over the top shaft bearing
its plain to see that its newer and less dirty than any other part on the car
wonder what he is trying to hide
for what i paid im not to bad off
most of the white parts should clean up well and the plastics dont look to be to damaged
i dont think i have ever seen a shock that had corision like that on it
and man that front axle(gues i should say that mas of rust where the front axle used to be )
hopefully i can get it out to replace it
I think you can use calcium/lime/rust remover to get the rust stains off the nylon, but not sure.
otherwise, you can salvage some, but there are other parts that are toast for sure.
this is no joke, but throw the really rusty parts in some coca-cola for a few days, maybe longer, and it really should make the rust easy to remove. the phosphoric acid in the cola kinda makes the rust break away from the steel. I've done it with some nasty turnbuckles. granted, the metal parts look beyond gone, but it might help get the axles out of the carriers.
Maybe it was ran in the winter, when the road was salted, and could not rinse the car off, because the water was shut off, so the lines would not freeze, something similar happened to me, but not to that extent.
This was my first 1/8 on-road car that I bought out of the Recycler back in 1983-84 for about $50. It was old back then and I did not respect it, used it as a street basher and apparently did not believe in cleaning it :roll:
Pulled it out of it's...
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Not yet, I'm about 3 weekends from finishing with my real race cars so after that I'm onto the vintage 1/8 scale stuff. I've been buying some great stuff!
4 bodies finished last week, and 3 more this week!
The Bolink trophy truck body has some nice big areas and I thought it would be nice to try some trick I'd heard about:
IMG_6650.JPG
Didn't work out as I had wished :roll: but the other thing I...
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thanks guys
No immediate plans really:
The bolink is designed for a touring car, so it will either go on a kyosho spider TF-1 (basically a narrowed optima-mid) or a Yokomo YR-4 (basically a narrowed YZ-10). It's intended for use with scale tires;...
Finished 4 bodies last week, and 3 more this week!
I found some netting and wanted to try a trick to get a lizard skin-look; something I had read about years ago.
This cheap body seemed perfect for the experiment.
First I did the metalic black; to...
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Neat effect!
I've seen similar custom effects done on full size vehicles using plastic wrap on wet paint for a marbled look, spraying water droplets & dusting over them for a 3D look...very cool.
Now if I only had the patience to do this kind of...
i would love to use my xxx/b4 wheels on my rc10. i've seen several cars with b4 or j concept wheels mounted. how are you doing this and keeping the correct offset?? thanks!
With midnight only hours away Down Under and Christmas soon there to follow I wanted to get in early and wish all the folks here on 10TALK a very Merry Christmas. May Santa be kind to you and your families.
Be safe, eat plenty and enjoy the company...
I have a 1/12 Lancia Stratos body and I'm having a hard time deciding between putting it on a 12e (on road) or a Jerobee ATV chassis ( off road ). It looks equally cool on either, and it's era-correct for both.
Thoughts?
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If it fits the way you want on the 12e then put it on there. There's tons of other Stratos cars you can model it after besides the Alitalia car.
The Alitalia car is the most recognized Stratos because it's the most often seen, and therefore it's...