B1M bolt-in mid motor conversion kit INSTRUCTIONS

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B1M bolt-in mid motor conversion kit INSTRUCTIONS

Post by mk-Zero »

Parts Needed:

Donor RC10 (stealth or 6 gear chassis are both okay)
Complete set of Stealth transmission gears and bearings
Original Stealth Slipper or V2 slipper
Extra idler gear and bearings
B1M transmission case
B1M motor plate spacers
B1M bulkhead
B1M motor plate
B1M rear shock tower
B1M rear chassis brace (optional)
B1M rear chassis brace tubes (optional)
B1M rear body mount (optional)
Wing tubes(optional)
B5M wing mounts (optional)
Assorted screws

**highly recommended** #4-40 and #8-32 taps and tap handle

B1M Transmission case
20170625_155557-1008x756.jpg
20170819_200229-1008x756.jpg
B1M bulkhead
20170819_200349-1008x756.jpg
20170819_200320-1008x756.jpg
20170819_200310-1008x756.jpg
B1M motor plate spacers
20170819_200443-1008x756.jpg
B1M rear chassis brace
20170819_200704-1008x756.jpg
B1M body mount
20170819_200534-1008x756.jpg
B1M rear shock tower (also available in black)
20170819_200847-1008x756.jpg
Motor Plate
20171029_092829.jpg
Complete deluxe kit (both tower colors shown, you need to choose one or the other)
20171028_221652-1008x756.jpg

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Re: B1M bolt-in mid motor conversion kit INSTRUCTIONS

Post by mk-Zero »

Transmission assembly

Here are all the components needed to assemble the B1M transmission. Basically everything from a Stealth transmission plus an additional idler gear and bearings. Shown are 4x 1" long screws, which are what the Stealth uses. Three of the screws will thread into the motor plate (and should be clearance-fit through the case halves). The 4th can optionally be threaded into the left-hand case half (the hole on the left case half for that screw is 4-40 tap size) and in that case you can use a 5/8" long screw, or you can use the 1" screw, clearance drill that hole in the left side of the trans case, then use the 4th motor plate spacer and a nut. Either way is fine.
You can optionally use either an original Stealth top shaft and slipper (shown) or a V2 slipper off a B4 (same as World's rere uses).
Please note that if your donor car is a World's re-release, you will need an additional AE6570 idler gear, the idler gear that comes with the World's rere IS NOT COMPATIBLE.
20170926_215521-1008x756.jpg
Preparing the transmission case
The transmission case may need a little detailing before assembly. Sometimes the bearing bores can be a little tight. I like to take an X-acto type blade and gently scrape the inner surface of the bearing bores in the case as shown below. This is usually sufficient so the bearings will be a nice snug fit without being overly tight. At this time, you should also tap the holes on top for #4-40, the bottom #4-40's (if you plan to use them, such as on a chassis drilled for a Stealth), the bottom front #8-32's, and the bottom rear #8-32's (if you are using a non-Stealth chassis)
20170926_215652-1008x756.jpg
After tapping the holes, it's a good idea to clean up the inside of the case where those holes open into the gear bores as material from tapping may be protruding in. These are the locations, on both case halves:
20171027_194950-1008x756.jpg
20171027_195000-1008x756.jpg
At this point you can assemble the transmission. Make sure the bearings are pressed in all the way, they should be flush when seated all the way. As with a normal RC10, the differential goes with the adjustment screw on the right side of the car.
20170926_222433-756x1008.jpg
Slide the two halves together and put in the 3 1" screws (should be clearance fit through both case halves) and one 5/8" screw (toward the back of the transmission case).
20170926_223052-1008x756.jpg
At this point you can put the motor plate and slipper on the transmission. Use 3 of the motor plate spacers between the motor plate and transmission case and thread the 3 1" screws into the motor plate. Do not over-tighten them. If you like, you can also install your motor onto the motor plate now and set the mesh between the pinion and spur. It is a little easier to do with the assembly out of the car.
20171022_235051-1008x756.jpg

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Re: B1M bolt-in mid motor conversion kit INSTRUCTIONS

Post by mk-Zero »

Putting the bulkhead and transmission in the chassis

I highly recommend you tap all holes that will be threaded. I can't guarantee the screws will "self tap" into the printed Nylon they way they do in molded parts. For the bulkhead, the 4 holes where the shock tower mount should be threaded as well as the ballstud holes (#4-40). The holes for the transmission mounting and chassis tab mounting are cleared for #4's. Likewise, for the rear chassis brace that comes with the deluxe kit, the two holes where the tubes will go should be tapped for 4-40 and the two where it screws to the transmission are #4 cleared. The body/wing tube mount has all 4 small holes that need to be tapped for 4-40.

Take the bulkhead and the rear shock tower and attach them with a single screw: the one that is the lower left when it will be assembled on the car (see picture). Leave it slightly loose, just loose enough that it can "hinge" on that screw (it will be obvious why you do this later). Now take the bulkhead and put it's tabs up to the chassis tabs and slip a screw through each bulkhead tab and through the chassis tabs: use a 3/8" screw on the left of the car, and a 7/16" screw on the right side of the car. On the left side of the car, use a low profile 4-40 nut with a little Loctite (since these are not locknuts) and on the right side of the car use a 4-40 locknut. Snug down both sides while making sure the bulkhead is level.
20171022_234816-1008x756.jpg
20171022_234823-1008x756.jpg
Next take the transmission assembly and slide it under the bulkhead from the front of the car toward the back:
20171022_235112-1008x756.jpg
Gently continue sliding it back until you see the bulkhead screw holes line up with the top holes in the transmission case. Note that if you have rear arm mounts on the car during this process it's okay, but you may need to back the 8-32 screws out some so they don't interfere with the transmission case as it slides past them.
20171022_235136-1008x756.jpg
With the shock tower rotated out of the way, put the two front bulkhead-to-transmission case screws in as shown. Use 3/8" long 4-40 screws and leave them slightly loose for now.
20171022_235216-1008x756.jpg
Now put the two rear bulkhead-to-transmission case screws in. If you got the Deluxe kit with the rear chassis brace, the chassis brace goes on top, then the bulkhead, with the transmission on bottom as shown. With the Deluxe kit use 1/2" long 4-40 screws, without the rear brace use 3/8" long screws. Leave the screws slightly loose.
20171022_235427-1008x756.jpg
Flip the car over and screw the transmission case to the chassis. In front, use two 8-32 x 3/8" or 1/2" flat head screws in the stock bulkhead screw holes. For Stealth chassis cars use 2x 4-40 x 3-8" long flat heads at the back of the transmission case, or for 6-gear chassis cars use 2x of 8-32 x 3/8" or 1/2" flat heads. The car shown is going to use Stealth mounting. Once you have the 4 screws in the bottom of the chassis, snug up all transmission mounting screws (4 on the bottom of the chassis and 4 between the bulkhead and transmission case.
20171022_235731-756x1008.jpg
Now rotate the shock tower back so it's mounting holes line up with the bulkhead holes. Put in the remaining 3 screws and tighten down all 4. The lower one closest to the motorplate is nearly impossible to put in when the transmission and motor plate are installed and this is why it was put in initially. You can still get access to it well enough to tighten it though.
20171023_000011-1008x756.jpg
For cars using the rear chassis brace set you can now add the tubes. Use 4-40 x 3/8" long screws to attach the tubes to the brace on the back of the bulkhead and use 4-40 x 1/4" to attach the tubes to the rear motor guard of the chassis.
20171023_001529-1008x756.jpg
Last, if you have the deluxe kit with the body and wing mount, put the body mount post on the mount using an 8-32 x 3/8" flathead screw. The wing tubes should be about 1" in length and will press-fit into the mount. Attach the mount to the shock tower using 4-40 x 3/8" long screws. Mount it in the lowest position. If you don't have the body/wing tube mount and are using B5M mounts you can attach them to the tower. In this case you will need to use Velcro or so other means to attach the body to the car on the sides or come up with some other way.
20171023_002459-1008x756.jpg
From here you are ready to finish the build. Add ball studs to the bulkhead for the rear camber links. The inside holes are the same spacing as the World's rere spacing (below the wing tubes on the stock bulkhead) and the outer ones are the true World's location. On the rear hubs switch the location of the ball studs to facing the rear of the car (stock they point forward).

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