my first rc10/post
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my first rc10/post
Hello Everyone, I have been lurking on this site for awhile and it made me want to find my old rc cars and start rebuilding them. This is my first rc10, it was an original kit with bushing and mechanical speed control, 6 gear tranny etc.... that i purchase when i was in 4th grade in 1988. And over the years when i got this car it went from being a basher to racer back to basher. I look at it now and get flash backs of all the years racing and learning. And this car is a clear example of a young kid trying to mimic the older advanced racers at the local track, regionals, and magazines. They're are so many upgrades to this car as i kept trying to stay current with a limited paper route budget as a kid. I look at it now, with all it's holes and imperfections and want to restore it, it is never going to be a queen, but i want to make it a dialed runner. So here are some pictures of the old gal and I'll be updating as i rebuild her and run it!
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Re: my first rc10/post
i liked your post! i think its cool that you still have it after all these years, man i totally relate with how an rc can reflect what went down at a certain time in a persons life, like how you said a young kid trying to mimic the pros/magazines/ or the older guys at the track... and how an rc will evolve over the years. hmmm.. hit me deep, very cool. haha but then again im a dork with no life and rc cars as my friends. =]
- Asso_man!
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Re: my first rc10/post
wow, this car belongs to another thread
I like the machined motor plate, didi you do that yourself? welcome aboard mate
, looking forward to see this car in it's past glory, you should detail all the mods you did, when, why and how...


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Come and visit the stable
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Re: my first rc10/post
I really like the A&L graphite chassis stiffeners, I've got those as well. Nice car!
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Re: my first rc10/post
im also digging the effort taken to make the pics look as good as they can. ::thumbs up:: the car looks great! really digging it.
- Dr. Robotnik
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Re: my first rc10/post
I too like the motor mount. Nice work.Asso_man! wrote:I like the machined motor plate, did you do that yourself?
- Erich Reichert
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Re: my first rc10/post
Naaaa not NEARLY enough holes, and def no cat pee. Some paint and a little elbow grease and it'll make a really nice runner I think. Be sure to keep posting pics as you go through it and welcome to the board!Asso_man! wrote:wow, this car belongs to another thread
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Re: my first rc10/post
The machined motor plate and nose plate were done by my local hobby shop at the time Latest Hobbies and Raceway (RIP) in wading river NY. Friends of the Hobby Shop owner worked at Grumman Engineering at the time and would machine them. They also machined tubs like the worlds car, but i couldn't convince mom to get me one when i was younger. I'll post pics of the motor plate once i get the car apart.
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Re: my first rc10/post update 2/8/13
So i realized i slacked hard and never put anything else on this car. This is my main runner. I replaced the chassis with a used team tub, did some mill work to it, cleaned and rebuilt her.
i replaced the swiss cheese gold gold tube for this used black tub. The A&L brace will go on another project
Rounded off some edges, and am stoked my nose, chassis, and motor plate all match now At my club we use to dremel the rear arm lip to reduce drag, if the fast guys were doing it then i was trying to copy them. Parts to do some updates, i am using b4 wheels, i went with b44 rear cva's, b4 carriers, etc... and added custom works wheel spacers and wide gt front axles B4 Slipper added
i replaced the swiss cheese gold gold tube for this used black tub. The A&L brace will go on another project
Rounded off some edges, and am stoked my nose, chassis, and motor plate all match now At my club we use to dremel the rear arm lip to reduce drag, if the fast guys were doing it then i was trying to copy them. Parts to do some updates, i am using b4 wheels, i went with b44 rear cva's, b4 carriers, etc... and added custom works wheel spacers and wide gt front axles B4 Slipper added
Re: my first rc10/post
Very cool post. Your car is really looking good.
Do what you should do, love who you should love.....now that's living.
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Re: my first rc10/post update 2/19/13
I noticed last week the rear was a little loose when i wanted to accelerate hard out of a corner, and it got me thinking, when running b4 rear hubs which are 0 degree, you reduce the rear toe in from 3 degrees, to 1.5 total since the rc10 has 1.5 toe build into the rear hubs, and the rear suspension mounts. So i am going to try 1.5 hubs from the gt2 and see if the rear end stays a little more planted.
Here is the parts list i am gonna try:
1 x ASC7933 Team Associated Crush Tube (2) $1.39
1 x ASC7935 Team Associated .187x.50x.196" Ball Bearing (GT2) (2) $5.49
1 x ASC7932 Team Associated 1.5 Degree Rear Hub Left/Right (GT2) $3.69 either way if you use b4 hubs or the gt2 hubs you have to open up the king pin to 1/8". Also the gt2 hubs are a little wider, so you either have to file down the hub or open up the arm. I chose to file down the hub
My previous set up was b4 rear hubs, b44 rear cva's with no washers on the inside of the hub, 4 slim axle spacers, b4 rear axle spacer, and custom works wheel spacers The GT2 rear hubs drilled out for 1/8 hinge pins cause the cva to rub on the hinge pin so it needs to be spaced out. I also use the lower profile ball studs for more wheel clearance, i have a few wheels that are a bit wobbly and not quite round so the more clearance the better. With the new set up i moved the 4 slim spacers to the inside of the hub which clears the hinge pin. Then i use the b4 rear axle spacer, and the custom works wheel spacers. the gt2 hubs also use a larger outer bearing. .
its is a tight fit to get the axle pin, here is the rear hub assembled got my 3 degree toe in back What i also really like about this set up is it solved 2 other issues i had with the b4 rear hub set up. First it moved the cva's out of the out drives a little and they no longer slightly bind when the suspension is complete compressed, i run 2 red o-rings on each rear shock, i could take them out if i wanted to, but i like running them as limiters. And second it increased the overall rear end with slightly.
I have read on this site of guys using 3 degree inboard suspension mounts from the T2 and running 0 degree rear hubs. The t2 rear mounts are hard to come buy so i am sticking with what is available, and i don't want to spend 30 bucks on ft 1.5 alloy hubs and drill them out.
I hope this helps anyone experimenting with rear wheel set ups.
Here is the parts list i am gonna try:
1 x ASC7933 Team Associated Crush Tube (2) $1.39
1 x ASC7935 Team Associated .187x.50x.196" Ball Bearing (GT2) (2) $5.49
1 x ASC7932 Team Associated 1.5 Degree Rear Hub Left/Right (GT2) $3.69 either way if you use b4 hubs or the gt2 hubs you have to open up the king pin to 1/8". Also the gt2 hubs are a little wider, so you either have to file down the hub or open up the arm. I chose to file down the hub
My previous set up was b4 rear hubs, b44 rear cva's with no washers on the inside of the hub, 4 slim axle spacers, b4 rear axle spacer, and custom works wheel spacers The GT2 rear hubs drilled out for 1/8 hinge pins cause the cva to rub on the hinge pin so it needs to be spaced out. I also use the lower profile ball studs for more wheel clearance, i have a few wheels that are a bit wobbly and not quite round so the more clearance the better. With the new set up i moved the 4 slim spacers to the inside of the hub which clears the hinge pin. Then i use the b4 rear axle spacer, and the custom works wheel spacers. the gt2 hubs also use a larger outer bearing. .
its is a tight fit to get the axle pin, here is the rear hub assembled got my 3 degree toe in back What i also really like about this set up is it solved 2 other issues i had with the b4 rear hub set up. First it moved the cva's out of the out drives a little and they no longer slightly bind when the suspension is complete compressed, i run 2 red o-rings on each rear shock, i could take them out if i wanted to, but i like running them as limiters. And second it increased the overall rear end with slightly.
I have read on this site of guys using 3 degree inboard suspension mounts from the T2 and running 0 degree rear hubs. The t2 rear mounts are hard to come buy so i am sticking with what is available, and i don't want to spend 30 bucks on ft 1.5 alloy hubs and drill them out.
I hope this helps anyone experimenting with rear wheel set ups.
- teman
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Re: my first rc10/post
It's cool to see some more of your 10's, I've only seen the B3 in person
I'm diggin the progress on ole 10's so far 
I'll have to figure out some way to make it down to the compound with your guys some time, it would be cool to throw down for some indoor laps with my graphite


I'll have to figure out some way to make it down to the compound with your guys some time, it would be cool to throw down for some indoor laps with my graphite

-Kevin
- Johnboy72
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Re: my first rc10/post
Man, wished I knew someone was back that way with vintage stuff. My gold pan is set up oval like I used to run at A&S Hobbies (where Rednecks is in Fulton). After being re-introduced to offroad at High Octane, I was thinking about putting together an old pan RC10 to give the guys hell with. But now stuck in Afghanistan. lol.
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Re: my first rc10/post
Thanks for all of your help. I will be trying this set up. Again, thank you so much.
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