Identifying my RC10
Identifying my RC10
While looking at parts for my restoration I am trying to figure out the different model numbers. I know mine is a B stamp but in lookign for parts I see there are several different B's? I have seen parts for a B3 and B6 what's the difference and how do I tell which I have? Box pic below.
- Basher67
- Approved Member
- Posts: 1056
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2017 12:25 am
- Location: Medford, Or
- Has thanked: 44 times
- Been thanked: 154 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
You're confusing the stamp letter with the actual model. All gold pans are "B1". Parts for these will just be listed as RC10 or vintage RC10, etc. "A" or "B" stamps on the pan just refer to the type of transmission it came with, holes that were factory drilled for said trans and gives a clue to the age of the car. The model # on the side of the box refers to the "trim package" your RC10 came with----with or without esc, champion edition, graphite edition and so on. B2's, B3's and so on are different buggys that were produced later through the evolution of AE 2wd buggys.
Yours appears to be a "B" stamp (which means it came with a stealth transmission) RC10 Championship Edition.
The easiest way to find the correct parts for your car is to look at the manual and find the part # you need and find it that way. If you don't have the original manual, they are readily available online in PDF form.
Yours appears to be a "B" stamp (which means it came with a stealth transmission) RC10 Championship Edition.
The easiest way to find the correct parts for your car is to look at the manual and find the part # you need and find it that way. If you don't have the original manual, they are readily available online in PDF form.
- Bakauata
- Approved Member
- Posts: 207
- Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2019 6:11 am
- Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
- Has thanked: 35 times
- Been thanked: 23 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
I think you mentioned in your presentation thread that you would like to upgrade to bearings on your car. That would be a wise move.
But figuring out what bearings to buy isn't so easy.
I just checked on the Avid web site (https://www.avidrc.com/product/m/products/59/Team-Associated-Vehicles.html) and they don't carry a complete replacement kit for the CE.
You may have to buy each bearing individually.
I think I made a list of what was needed for my CE a while back, but that has a six gear transmission in it.
I'll check my notes and get back to you.
But figuring out what bearings to buy isn't so easy.
I just checked on the Avid web site (https://www.avidrc.com/product/m/products/59/Team-Associated-Vehicles.html) and they don't carry a complete replacement kit for the CE.
You may have to buy each bearing individually.
I think I made a list of what was needed for my CE a while back, but that has a six gear transmission in it.
I'll check my notes and get back to you.
Chris
Re: Identifying my RC10
I have a complete set of bearings, someone on facebook pointed me tot he correct set to buy.
- RC10resto
- Super Member
- Posts: 2937
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:26 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
- Has thanked: 1112 times
- Been thanked: 430 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
Well, without a lot of info it doesn't look like you need any parts (are the Battery Cups in the box?).
Make sure everything is smooth and free while you replace the Bushings. Service items will be rebuilding the shocks (if they leak) fresh oil in and see how they feel. Next will be the Trans, does the Diff have smooth action or is it "gritty". The car looks to have low run time so you probably just need to tune things up a bit
Good luck and enjoy the refresh.
Make sure everything is smooth and free while you replace the Bushings. Service items will be rebuilding the shocks (if they leak) fresh oil in and see how they feel. Next will be the Trans, does the Diff have smooth action or is it "gritty". The car looks to have low run time so you probably just need to tune things up a bit
Good luck and enjoy the refresh.
Re: Identifying my RC10
Not much runtime we never raced. I have one side of the battery box will probably look for another so I can put the battery side to side like it was.
- Ronbo
- Approved Member
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:39 pm
- Location: Puyallup, WA
- Has thanked: 11 times
- Been thanked: 6 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
Jim, check the 25 years of the RC10 at the top of this forum section. You can spot the differences with the parts and model types by that guide. Its helped me, and I raced during the time frame 86-95 and I learned a lot.
Ron
Ron
- Pepito
- Approved Member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 8:47 pm
- Location: Eastern Carolinas - NC
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
Are you looking to do a complete resto or a runner? That will make a big difference in what you need/want to do with the Buggy.
For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
There were two different CE editions, the 6 gear tranny (A stamp) and the Stealth Tranny (B Stamp). You have the later CE stealth tranny B stamp that was released in 1992.
Even with the stealth tranny, these buggies still came with a mechanical speed control. You have a Futaba ESC, an upgrade to the original speed controller - hence why you only really need one battery cup.
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.
If you are looking to restore your RC10, that's a whole other animal and list.
Let us know if that is the direction you are looking to go.
Good luck!
For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
There were two different CE editions, the 6 gear tranny (A stamp) and the Stealth Tranny (B Stamp). You have the later CE stealth tranny B stamp that was released in 1992.
Even with the stealth tranny, these buggies still came with a mechanical speed control. You have a Futaba ESC, an upgrade to the original speed controller - hence why you only really need one battery cup.
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.
If you are looking to restore your RC10, that's a whole other animal and list.
Let us know if that is the direction you are looking to go.
Good luck!
Living life a 1/4 mile at a time.
- aakoskin
- Regular Member
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2018 4:00 pm
- Location: Helsinki, Finland
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 7 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
In my local club, I've noticed that most of the "pro" vintage RC10 racers mount the battery sideways (with a shorty pack). Apparently that gives better balance than with inline.Pepito wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 9:52 am For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
[...]
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.
Re: Identifying my RC10
I wanted to take it apart and clean and lube it and add a new body and run it, (not on dirt) and not race it.
Pepito wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 9:52 am Are you looking to do a complete resto or a runner? That will make a big difference in what you need/want to do with the Buggy.
For a runner, you would only really want one battery cup. It should be locate the length of the chassis with one end of the battery going into the Rear bulkhead pocket and the other being held by the battery box.
There were two different CE editions, the 6 gear tranny (A stamp) and the Stealth Tranny (B Stamp). You have the later CE stealth tranny B stamp that was released in 1992.
Even with the stealth tranny, these buggies still came with a mechanical speed control. You have a Futaba ESC, an upgrade to the original speed controller - hence why you only really need one battery cup.
The two battery cups were used when you had the mechanical speed controller because the servo went into the rear bulkhead pocket.
If you are looking to restore your RC10, that's a whole other animal and list.
Let us know if that is the direction you are looking to go.
Good luck!
Re: Identifying my RC10
Are those old ESC's worth anything? I think a brand new unsued one is in the box
- Pepito
- Approved Member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2018 8:47 pm
- Location: Eastern Carolinas - NC
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
Re: Identifying my RC10
If you are going to run it, ditch the old ESC, RX and Transmitter an opt for new ones. They are much more efficient. Also, go with a 2S Lipo battery for the buggy. The run time will last at least twice as long as any other NiCad or NiMh and probably be less expensive to keep and maintain in the long run.
To answer your question about "worth", the short answer is - it depends.
Politically and policy around this forum, is you don't ask that type of question and we are not supposed to answer it.
Enter the model number on eBay and search the ESC "SOLD" category with the appropriate condition and that is usually a good gauge as to its worth.
Hope all that helps ya!
Living life a 1/4 mile at a time.
Re: Identifying my RC10
Thanks much for the help
Pepito wrote: ↑Mon Feb 17, 2020 12:07 pmIf you are going to run it, ditch the old ESC, RX and Transmitter an opt for new ones. They are much more efficient. Also, go with a 2S Lipo battery for the buggy. The run time will last at least twice as long as any other NiCad or NiMh and probably be less expensive to keep and maintain in the long run.
To answer your question about "worth", the short answer is - it depends.
Politically and policy around this forum, is you don't ask that type of question and we are not supposed to answer it.
Enter the model number on eBay and search the ESC "SOLD" category with the appropriate condition and that is usually a good gauge as to its worth.
Hope all that helps ya!
Create an account or sign in to join the discussion
You need to be a member in order to post a reply
Create an account
Not a member? register to join our community
Members can start their own topics & subscribe to topics
It’s free and only takes a minute
Sign in
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 14 Replies
- 813 Views
-
Last post by PhilV
-
- 13 Replies
- 1989 Views
-
Last post by Winger
-
- 1 Replies
- 419 Views
-
Last post by RC10resto
-
- 19 Replies
- 2232 Views
-
Last post by TheSpeedway
-
- 13 Replies
- 1663 Views
-
Last post by durb69
-
- 1 Replies
- 825 Views
-
Last post by GoMachV
-
- 6 Replies
- 1043 Views
-
Last post by sgirouard
-
- 5 Replies
- 904 Views
-
Last post by Mad Racer
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Facebook [Bot] and 30 guests