My rc10 is still making my motors run really hot

[rc10absuer]

I got my new motor in today, its a trinity 17t speed gems, brand new tekin rebel 2 esc. gp3300 6 cell, 12t pinion and 54t spur, no matter what i do this frekin car wants to burn up my motors, im about 5 inches from shelving it and calling it a loss. The dogbones are at proper angle, the tranny is rebuilt with bearings!!!, everything turns really smooth, there is absolutly no binding anywhere. The tires are stock size. What is going on?

ive tried 12-17t pinions and the result is always the same, the motor gets really hot and wants to start smoking, i wont let this car eat a 4th motor. What pinion and spur combos are you guys running. Thanks Josh

[adam lancia]

Your ratio is fine, there must be something wrong with the speed control. Do you have another one to swap out and see if that fixes it?

[aconsola]

I run my 6-gear gold pan with a 17t single speedgems sapphire motor, geared 13x54, original tire size(1.6" rims), with gp3300mah nimh with no heat issues. The motor gets a little warm, but not any more than any other rc that I've had the 17t motor in.
I've used a couple different esc's with this setup, I have a futaba mc330 in there now with no troubles.
I'm at a loss for a reason to explain your heat issues.

[Eau Rouge]

I would think that a new ESC wouldn't be the first place to look.

Off the top of my head, how's your pinion to spur gear mesh? Too tight, and you'll eat up motors left and right. When the motor is tightened up, there should be a small amount of play between the gears, called backlash. It's imperative that there is backlash in these gears.

The primitive RC10 manual explains setting gear mesh like this:

Slip the motor in the motor mount and start the bottom screw first.. Do not tighten all the way down yet. On the top screw, put a [#4] washer on the screw and screw it in, but not tight. By moving the upper screw forward or back, we'll be moving the motor closer to, or away from the plastic spur gear. What we want to do is get the metal pinion gear as close to the plastic spur gear without binding up the gears. The easy way to check this is to put your finger on the plastic gear [spur] and see if you can rock it in the teeth of the metal gear [pinion]. The 2 gears should be as close as possible, while still being able to very slightly rock the plastic [spur] gear. When you have the correct spacing, tighten down on the 2 motor screws and re-check the gear spacing [backlash].


It's a pretty simple thing, but if you're not used to setting gears up like this, it's easy to overlook. And a set of jammed gears will overload an electric motor like running the car in molasses.

Other than that, if you have ZERO binding in the drivetrain, with the motor not connected, make sure your tires are glued to the rims. I've seen that burn up electronics, too, oddly enough. Make sure your diff isn't set too loose, either. Slipping diffs might over-run motors and burn up a lot of things.

I can't think of anything else that would burn up motors if you are geared correctly with no drivetrain binds.


Check those things, and see if either might be the culprit. I'll keep thinking of other things I have seen do that to motors...



d

[rc10absuer]

Im done, this thing is a POS and i havnt the time nor patience for this kind of crap. this thing is going in a box, i dont wanna look at it.

lets see what i have dumped into this POS in an attempt to have a rc10 runner, this car has a curse on it!!

100 for car advertised as roller
50 for parts to actually make car roller
novak brushless system, i paid 140 for it used and it ate it,
2 speed gems motors at 39 a pop, and they were brand new
1 reedy mvyp motor 31.99, it was almost new
1 esc that mysteriously stopped working when i put it in the car, i paid 27 bucks, but it was still almsot brand new

either in my ignorance or stupidity i have caused this, but i would rather blame it on a cursed car

thats over 300 in parts that its found necassary to destroy, im not including all of the nip parts ive been picking up over the last few months, im not even going to put them on this thing cause theyll probably turn black and fall to pieces like a dead rose petal, thanks for your help, im going to go to my lhs tomorrow and buy a new motor so i can run my other cars and actually enjoy this hobby. Josh

[Eau Rouge]

Dude, post a photo of the car. I'm sure it's something simple. These aren't complicated cars...

[scr8p]

Ive done all of that, it just killed this new motor, im very angry at this model right now. It just kills them in a few seconds without warning!!! first it ate my novak ss5800 brushless motor, I WAS MADDDD!!!!! It was my fault though cause i found that the diff was a little to tight and i adjusted it and the wheels rolled more freely so i dropped in a stocker reedy motor that was almost new, ran perfect for about 30 seconds in the garage going slow and then smoke started bellowing out. I made more and more adjustments and its continued to eat motors. I made even more adjustments and got the wheels to turn as freely as i could and put this in here and it just ate it!!!! Its like throwing 300 dollars in a fireplace. this car is a POS

you sure are making a lot of adjustments. too what? i mean....... the wheels should spin as free as possible before you even use the car.

i think it's pretty obvious that you have some serious issues with your drivetrain. i've been in this hobby for over 20 years, and i have only burnt up 1 motor. and the only reason that happened is because at the time, i didn't know that you couldn't go from a cut brush to a full brush. i think it's time to tear your car back down and start over again. this article should help you get your trans ready to go. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3748

the 6 gear trans doesn't just fall together. you need to spend the time to make sure it's right. not just good enough. the only other thing you need to do then is to make sure that your axles spin freely in the hub carriers with the wheels attached, but without the dogbones installed. that way, when you spin the rim, you'll just how free it actually is. a lot of time it seems like the axle has enough side to side play, but when the rim is tightened, that side to side play is lost. they need to be shimmed accordingly.

[rc10absuer]

Ive been in this hobby for 8 years and have never once burned up a motor till now, i kinda struggled putting the tranny back together. I will give it another go tonight.

How freely should the wheels spin with the dogbones in and no motor in. I can spin them now with little effort but its harder to spin than say my tamiya m03 and my tc3.

I have been adjusting the slipper diff, ive been fooling with shock angles, ive even been moving around electronics cause the back end is so dang heavy. I will tear this tranny down tonight and rebuild as per the manual exactly, i will shim everything. If it burns up another motor, honestly.... i might smash it with the sledge, thanks Josh

[Eau Rouge]

And if you are running brushless AND brushed at different times, it's certainly not the electronics at all.


This is NOT the car's fault. There is something inside the diff or in the drivetrain causing these failures. As Jason has, I've also been doing this over 25 years, and I have never burned up ONE single electric motor in my life. That's a list of hundreds of electric motors—stock, modified, brushless, brushed, reverse rotation, lathe motors... you name it.

If you are burning out motors in seconds, there is something seriously wrong with the way the drivetrain is assembled. It's not the car's fault. There is something broken or improperly assembled inside that gearbox or drivetrain that is eating your motors, and it's probably something simple to fix.

Also, there is NO slipper in a 6-gear. Set it once like the manual says to set the external diff, and leave it alone. It's not designed to slip like a modern slipper clutch. Everything should be free, and the diff should be relatively smooth. Hold the spur gear and turn one of the rear tires—the opposite tire should rotate in the opposite direction. If it isn't, you did something wrong.

[highwayracer]

Sometimes, it's hard to figure out the problem with just a picture. The 6 gear transmission can be a real pain sometimes. There's got to be some binding somewhere.

Does your car have dog bones...or universals? Are the wheels spaced out correctly? Are the wheels on too tight?

Where are you located?...one of us may be close enough to help.

Regards,
highwayracer