looks great the only thing I would add is that you may be better off using the 6061 if you plan on anodizing the chassis cause the 7075 does not anodize as well as the 6061 and the 7075 also tends to get water stained very easily
murphy3428 wrote:looks great the only thing I would add is that you may be better off using the 6061 if you plan on anodizing the chassis cause the 7075 does not anodize as well as the 6061 and the 7075 also tends to get water stained very easily
OK good to know. I guess my buddy already knows that but I'll tell him. Thanks
the added holes are added cost, I would assume, so I say leave 'em off.
I also would say the 6061 is probably cheaper, and will anodize better, so it's probably a better choice, but may not be as stiff.
if you decide to go the route of the short wheelbase/truck bulkhead up front, you'll also want to consider adding holes for the nose tube supports for the gas truck. I can't find it right now, but they are 2 plastic bulkheads that attach to the chassis and connect the nose to the chassis to provide additional support. I'm adding here not to push you before you even get the first chassis built, but so that it's written down while I'm thinking about it. Ten minutes from now I'll forget.
Just talked to my friend... We'll use the 6061 aluminum. From what I understand that's the aircraft grade and it is less brittle than the other which tend to rip instead of bending.
The row of holes on the sides is not the costliest part so taking them off would not change the price. We were planning on not having them unless you guys ask for them. Just for look, I personally think they should be moved back (removing the first one in the front and adding one in the back). But of course they are useless except for mounting an antenna with a modified antenna mount cut with an angle....
What about color? I personnaly want black to fit with the newer parts but we could do other colors. However batches have to be anodized together, we can't do piece per piece... Any suggestions?
jwscab wrote:the added holes are added cost, I would assume, so I say leave 'em off.
I also would say the 6061 is probably cheaper, and will anodize better, so it's probably a better choice, but may not be as stiff.
if you decide to go the route of the short wheelbase/truck bulkhead up front, you'll also want to consider adding holes for the nose tube supports for the gas truck. I can't find it right now, but they are 2 plastic bulkheads that attach to the chassis and connect the nose to the chassis to provide additional support. I'm adding here not to push you before you even get the first chassis built, but so that it's written down while I'm thinking about it. Ten minutes from now I'll forget.
I have tought about this but as you can see on our chassis there will be no nose tubes and I don't think they would be needed on the other chassis either. We made some virtual tests on the chassis and you need A LOT of pressure to bend it. It would have to jump really high and fall very hard to bend. But of course who would have tought in the 80s that people could do backflip with their RC trucks!
hi i was reading the posts for the chassies theres alot of aircraft grade aluminum being clad or unclad witch normally marked bare. the claded is the way to go for corrosion. but iwould still prime and paint becouse the clad is about as thin as human hair. now for the types of alumuinim theres 2024 7075 and 6061 the the number to look for is the last which for airplanes it TO being extremally flexable witch is normally used for fab then sent for heat treat the next is T3 which is harder and can still be bent but can crack. T6 is the hardedest and does not bend easlly you can get away with the bend for the front nose of a rc10 just do not bend with the grain. sorry just could not help shedding lite on the aluminum im have heavy structure mechanic at a mro in wa im getting some money together to make rc10tsc with a custom tub proply going to use 7075t6 .080 to .090
some of my cars rc10 rc10t RC10T2 rc10t3 rc10gt sc10 4X4 losi xx4 tlr 22, duratrax exb, rs4 super rc10 worlds trf801x and trf801xt td10
nitro rs4 rs4 ev0 mirage v spec venum creeper
desc410v2 pro sc18 rc18 team turingy go cart and sct slash 2wd
I just received a few pictures of our chassis assembled with the rest of the parts. It looks very good but we have a few problems to fix as the rear holes do not align properly. We'll fix that of course.
The steering parts will have to be shimed a little to clear the chassis as the original front plate is a bit lower. We'll probably supply shim tubes or something like that with the chassis. It has to be a cheap and simple solution. Here are a few pictures...
Don't pay attention to the orientation of the rear wheels. My friend used the wrong holes on the suspension mounts before taking the picture.
For the final version we will reposition the row of holes back by one hole and anodize the thing (likely black).
Now I need to find a rear bumbper for the graphite chassis to test the position of the two rear holes. If someone has one to spare let me know. Condition doesn't matter it's for testing...
I know you are well into the development of the chassis and it looks really good but what about this idea? Make the front of the chassis 1/2"-3/4" longer and bend it up like the OG gold pan nose plate. This would allow the use of nose tubes with the GT mounts. It would really stiffen up the front end. You'd be surprised how one good lick will bent the front of that chassis.
looks to me like using the sassy chassis as a template for hole placement has kinda bit you in the a$$ again.............
the sassy chassis has 3 degrees of toe in already built into it. because of that, the sides of the chassis by the arm mounts taper towards the bulkhead. that way, the holes will line up with the arm mounts. you used the sassy hole placement, then cut the chassis straight (like a normal chassis), so now you can't attach the arm mount to the chassis.
just curious, is the rc10 protech 1 body based of (loosely or whatever) a fullsize buggy chassis? of course it would be from the late 70's/early 80's. i just cant seem to find anything that really looks close. so far a class 9 chenowth is the...
EXO Designs swb classic version chassis & Rc Screwz stainless screw set. Pretty well stock other than universal drive shafts and a Kyosho HD mid gear and a set of Kyosho titanium turn buckles.
this is just a test run. :D In the future i will be making them out of BLUE G10 and the 69 will not be cut through. This was a mistake that i fixed.
I will also be designing some kind of battery strap holder that i am dreaming up in my head. Still...
I found another chassis that was made by Team Losi's Jon Anderson and Jack Johnson because they were on team Kyosho in 4wd. the battery slots are moved forward. only 4 or 5 of them were made...Jack, jon, gil, and steven dunn....
finally got some pics of my build going and wanted to post them up here as i build them.
keep in mind this is just a prototype so forgive the crappy welds, they will clean up nicely anyway. i used 3/16 stainless tube (the coated stuff gives off...
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thanks, im planning to make 10 or so, i actually scrapped the above chassis after completing more of it for a simpler design with less welds and more strength, got some advice from the crawler forum.
if i get enough steel to make more, i will make...
just bought this from steven dunn will post more pics once i get it. here is the info on it from him: These chassis were made for the factory drivers to see which length would be better than the stock xx chassis. They were cut in half and shortened...
well this chassis has been kicking around on this site for some time. highwayracer got it from andy than sold it to scr8p than i just bought it :). here is the message from highwayracer (I bought a ton of prototype items and which included a few...
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well its done!! IMG_8043.jpg IMG_8044.jpg IMG_8045.jpg IMG_8046.jpg IMG_8047.jpg IMG_8048.jpg IMG_8049.jpg IMG_8050.jpg
Ok its time to put this car together I bought this chassis over a year ago thinking of what to do with it. this is the Jrx pro se/ Lx-t prototype chassis losi used to make the mould for the production chassis. now its going to be a shelf queen....
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Yeah, but sold the mould a while back.
I believe the OE SE shell would look better on this car personally.