Oval 10LSS build, Paint is done

[Seabass]

Well I did it. I went ahead and jumped on a 10L on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110569313101&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I worked out a deal for $50 shipped. It looks to be a decent deal. I am probably going to dump the chassis' I decide not to use.

I am going to build the car for the On road Vonats since the race is about $ hours from the house. I will post pics when the car arrives. I need to sneak this one, my wife is going to think I have gone nuts.

Jake

[bearrickster]

Looks like you did very well. you got what looks to be a nice Composite Craft wide chassis and the stock Fiberglass one. to go with the LTO one on the car. I think you did very well for 50bucks thats what the one chassis goes for.

[Seabass]

I got the car in and I am very happy with the purchase. The car is in pretty good shape and came with the factory chassis along with another chassis. The car came with a set of Tecnacraft turnbuckles as well.

I started cleaning up the car a bit since I am waiting for some material to arrive at the house. I will be machining some parts for the car in the next couple weeks. The hubs were severely oxidized so I chucked them up in my lathe and hit them with some light sandpaper and finished them off with some polish. Makes a big difference in how they look.

Any recommendations on tires and or pinion/spur combos? My plan is to run a 27T brushed motor since I will probably not be able to control the car since I have never driven a pan car.

Enojy the pics, more coming soon.

Jake

[Seabass]

During the disassembly I noticed the really small front axles on the car and came up with a plan to try and make something a bit stronger.

I turned two new axle shafts and threaded the inside for a 6-32 button head screw. I had to drill the steering block out to accept the larger axle. I also had to mill a recessed area in the axle to allow the hinge pin to slide by. I tapped a 4-40 set screw into the steering block to help hold the axel in place. The recessed area will also keep the axle from moving as well. I already had the bearings I needed for the front wheels. They turned out great and I can't wait to get some more stuff done to the car.

I may have strngthend the axle but in the process I may have weakened the steering block. We will have to see once I get the car finished. The first pic is stock, second the new stuff, and third a comparison of the old axle and new axle.

I have material on order for a few other things I want to do.

Jake

[bearrickster]

thats very nice. I like you idea to bolt the wheel on, most of them hold on with a C clip. those threaded axles are hard to find.

[Seabass]

I sent you a PM about those axles.

I have plans to machine the parts similar to the Aero Trac for this car. I will be sitting down to draw everything out. Hopefully the rear will turn out nice.

Jake

[Seabass]

Well I have given the plastic the treatment to fix the appearance. I also got new tires in today. I have some new parts coming in from Bormac as well.

I have a couple questions on the chassis I should use.

I have the LTO chassis and I have the wide CC chassis. I was wanting to use the wide CC chassis. Will there be a big difference in performance between the two?

Also I have my tires and the new wheels should be here in about a week. I have seen the tire truing files at rc4less. Do you need specific tools to do this or will standard tools work as well? I don't want to get my tires mounted then ruin them with sandpaper/standard files. I also don't want to spend money on a tool I already have at the house either.

Suggestions are welcomed.

I also ordered my material for the custom parts I have in mind. This car should be pretty awesome when I finish.

Jake

[Seabass]

I finally got my material in and I got my front brace made today. I have seen something similar to this before and I figured I would put my own spin on it. I am not sure if it will make the car any better but I think it looks cool. It did stiffen the front part of the chassis up a good bit. I will be making a new brace for the rear as well. I just wish I could find this G10 in a matte finish to match the chassis better.

Jake

[drbelleville]

Thats pretty cool, a new approach.

[scr8p]

isn't that gonna be in the way of the steering?

[Seabass]

No it shouldn't be. I made sure of that when I was figuring out the pattern. The steering turnbuckles should clear the top of the brace. Granted I still have to hook everything up to make sure. We will see....

Jake

[Seabass]

Been slow on this build lately. I went ahead and turned a front wheel for the car. I was able to get one wheel close to being finished but my machines don't have the size need to fit the wheel. There is no way I could turn rear wheels for a pan car, they are just too big.

Anyway, I wanted to post a picture of what I came up with. I stopped working on it when I came to the realization my mill couldn't handle the size. When I place the wheel in the cuck mounted to my rotary table, I can't get any tooling in the collet to make any cuts.

You can see the wheel is still pretty thick. I had plans to take more material out to lighten up the wheel overall. The tire on the wheel has only been placed on the wheel and is not glued. That is why the tire is not trued.

Jake

[rc10johnny]

As Usual!!! Very Nice Jake

[Eau Rouge]

Nice find. A few things about pan cars...

One, those axles have been used successfully for 30+ years. The 1/8th shafts are not a strength concern, but threads on them are nice for using 4-40 screws instead of C-clips. Actually, aluminum axles are less durable than the smaller steel ones. You can find the threaded axles from any contemporary 1/12th scale manufacturer like CRC or SpeedMerchant. What you have is perfect, and I wouldn't have changed them.

Next, that front end on the 10L is affectionately called the "old school" front end by racers today. It's primitive, but it works. The problem with your brace is that it's not necessary, and it will interfere with the steering and any ability to change caster and camber on that front end. It's done with shims, and right now, you have none. It will be hellacious to drive that way. Zero caster on an oval car is a handful, to say the least. I would ditch the brace, or at least revise it to not tie it into the antenna mount. Tie the front together, it will increase lateral stiffness, but elongate the holes to allow camber adjustments under the suspension blocks. I'm about 99% sure that front end brace will interfere with the steering linkage anyway. There is a lot of layover of the links when the steering is at full lock.

To true tires... in on road or racing with foam tires, a truer is essential to making the car handle and stay consistent. And in controlling the proper ride height. Find a local carpet track or carpet racer—chances are they will have a truer with on-road arbors that can true your tires to the proper sizes and shapes. Even if you aren't planning on racing it, it looks 1000 times better than a hack job here. Most race tires don't have a whole lot of foam on them for ride height, and to reduce foam squirm in the corners. Lighter is better.

The LTO chassis is Left Turn Only. It's an oval chassis and won't turn right very well with all of the weight bias. Your other chassis is also an oval chassis, but will allow you to balance everything down the middle for using on a road course.


Hope this helps...


dc

[treehugger]

very cool jake.
i guess you would have to go up a couple of chuck sizes to do the rears ?
paul