Forum Nubie - graphite Chassis ID, Opinions on my 1st Build

[oldskoolracer]

I'm brand new to the Forum and I just want to say I'm glad to have found you guys, now I don't have to bore my wife to tears with talk of differentials and 4 minute motors.

Can anyone ID my RC10's graphite chassis? I was thinking it was an RC10 Graphite, but after researching the forums now I'm thinking differently - perhaps it's the Hobbico in this thread? http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11951

Anyway, I've been thinking of building it. Should I go retro electronics on the build or perhaps a *reasonable* brushless to get some nice speed and some good run time. I plan on running it in the woods out back with my son (hard pack with some nice spacing between trees) or a nice hard pack field when I can find one.

Pink wheels are staying no matter what.

If I go retro, what are some opinions on which of my motors I should go with? They all worked when I put 'em away, stored them in a dry, finished basement, do you think they'll still be at their best?

- Team Losi Revolution Insane (I believe it's a 12 turn double, according to the links below, but I really don't know.)
- B&R Bullet with a Yokahama can.
- Reedy Competition Stock (labeled from the Cadillac facility)
- Trinity Speedworks Blue Label (15 turn single - according to the links below)
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/archive/index.php/t-228722.html
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14170

Any opinions on if I should use my old Magnum Jr / Novak system or go with modern electronics. I'd guess there is a major difference in working range?

Thanks in advance.

Dan


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/RC10/rc10d.jpg


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/RC10/rc10d.jpg


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/RC10/rc10a.jpg


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/RC10/rc10b.jpg


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/RC10/1004001939.jpg

[drbelleville]

I am not sure but the chassis itself looks like a Composite Craft replacement chassis. I would recomend to fill the two holes in the chassis behind the kickup, and in front of the Steering Rack mounts, it can help prevent breakage there later down the road.


Welcome to the forum.

[jwscab]

that car is a little bit of stock and aftermarket parts.

the chassis could be composite craft or a few other that all had the same basic shape and layout.

the arms are most likely andy's front and rear, but could also be rpm(rears are andys, can't see for sure on the fronts).

the steering is probably losi, aftermarket, and nice pieces that are always sought after.

the other rc10 factory parts look to be standard mid production parts, neither very early or very late. The rear shocks are team shocks, and it looks like you might need some down limiters in them, based on how far down into the arm the axle and dogbone are.

the chassis is very nice underside, I would stick some chassis protecting tape on it if you plan to run it.

give a good cleaning, and enjoy it, if the old school electronics work, there is no reason to not use them for just cruising around the neighborhood or friendly racing.

it also looks like the bulkhead was drilled or beat up some.....you can find them semi reasonably, there are quite a few on ebay right now.

it's a good idea to chamfer those added holes and apply some crazy glue or epoxy on them to keep the fibers from splitting.

it's hard to see those turnbuckles, are they just threaded rod or are they smooth?

[Ruffy]

That chassis definitely looks like a Composite Craft replacement chassis for the RC10. I can tell by the bottom side view, the way the grains run and the core visible via the c'sinks holes.
Almost certain it is a Composite Craft layup.
If you want to race it, may I suggest you de-bond the steering servo and move it up as close to the steering bellcranks as you can. This will help the car have more steering without adding ballast to the front.
Congrats!

[drbelleville]

That chassis definitely looks like a Composite Craft replacement chassis for the RC10. I can tell by the bottom side view, the way the grains run and the core visible via the c'sinks holes.
Almost certain it is a Composite Craft layup.
If you want to race it, may I suggest you de-bond the steering servo and move it up as close to the steering bellcranks as you can. This will help the car have more steering without adding ballast to the front.
Congrats!

What bumper mounts on the rear? Did S&K have a bumper for this chassis?

[jwscab]

i think it has the same dimensions as the factory graphite chassis, so a factory rear plate would bolt on.

[oldskoolracer]

ruffy - my thought exactly - I removed the receiver and steering servo last night - I don't like how the servo linkage is out of line like that.

jws - good eye, they're Andy's front and rear. The linkages are plain threaded rod, not the adjustable turn-buckle type that I think came on later models.

What are your thoughts on the motors? The LOSI was pretty badass in the day - but the capacitors are all torn up and I really don't remember anything about motor repairs (I think I ran that motor circa 1988 or so). The others I just accumulated along the way and don't really remember how they ran.

[drbelleville]

What are your thoughts on the motors? The LOSI was pretty badass in the day - but the capacitors are all torn up and I really don't remember anything about motor repairs (I think I ran that motor circa 1988 or so). The others I just accumulated along the way and don't really remember how they ran.

If you were to want to run the motors, give them a good once over. Check the brushes, the springs, bearings / bushings first. Old school electronics are great to have even for a display runner. In the long run though a high turn brushless (21+) is great, its reliable simple and relativly inexpensive. With the brushless you do not have to worry about so much of the Brushed maintenance. Either way both are nice

[RCveteran]

I have a 99% new composite craft which appears to match that exactly, so I vote Composite Craft.

[floodx]

Sidewinder Body? Looks the shape of the one I had that is lost in my dads basement somewhere.

[oldskoolracer]

thanks guys, in the interim I've educated myself on motors and have pulled apart the team losi and blue label. haha, i'm in it deep now! hell, i might just buy a lathe, the losi looks pretty ripe for a turning. i'm glad i pulled the car out of my dad's basement the other day, been itchin to tinker on something new and i think this thing'll keep me busy for some time.

[oldskoolracer]

Today I picked up some Ti turnbuckles to clean up the suspension and steering linkages. Thanks to Vintage88, I have a new diff shaft coming, which will hopefully fix some issues there. And I picked up a box full of mod and stock motors (and comm lathe) from the bay that should be arriving in a few days. I'm def planning to wind my own fairly sick mod motor (just for kicks really), but I'll be running stock for now as I recently found out my Novak T4 won't handle anything too crazy. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=8405

I'm def going to stick with the retro electronics, but there are a few things I'm in need of. First, my speed controller (Novak T4) has a servo connector pictured (Futaba J?). Yet my receiver (Novak NER-2S) takes the old style 3 prong (Futaba G?) (2nd pic below).

Now comes the setup. Below is what I've come up with with JK Racing's help and some research on RC10talk, but nothing I've found has been specific to a graphite chassis. I'm planning on running off road stock. Any ideas on what tires I should be using? Honestly, I've never been to the track - I might just go with what I have and see what the kids are running these days. I'll be running at Dirt Runners in Northern NJ. I'm sticking with the 6 gear for now, but we'll see.

Setup - how's it look, think this'll be a decent starting point?
Front:
35wt Losi oil
#2 piston
Green springs
Wishbone - only one hole, so that's an easy decision.
Tower - once I score a newer tower, what are your thoughts?
Caster - not sure what I have, but it's staying for now.
-1 degree camber

Rear:
35wt Losi oil
#1 piston
Green springs
2nd in on tower (just machined them in the other night)
Outer on wishbone
-1.5 degree camber

Electrics:
Speed Control: Novak T4
Receiver: Novak NER-2S
Futaba
Battery: probably a 5000mAh NiMh

Motor: We'll see when my score from the bay comes in.
Trans: 6 gear
Tires: ??

[oldskoolracer]

1st one is what my speed controller has. 2nd one is what my receiver takes (3 prong.)



http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/futabaj.jpg


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/futabag.jpg

[scr8p]

i edited your post. as stated in the forum rules, b/s/t related inquiries are not allowed outside the b/s/t.

tower hobbies has everything your looking for. except for maybe the tires. your best bet is to go to the track you'll be running at and see what those guys are using. but, your rims are 2.1/2.0, and most buggy tires out today are 2.2. there are options out there to run modern 2.2 rims on your old buggy, though. just don't plan on using the ones you got.

[JK Racing]

if you go with the new CE style shock towers, I *think* you will need to go to the longer CE front shocks also (original short arm car had .56 size, CE has .71 size).

I would just pick up a nice used receiver with the newer plug style, the Futaba "G" plugs went out in the early 90's IRRC.

If you plan on seriously hitting a track, go to the tech forum portion and read up on using newer wheels/tires and start picking up the correct parts. Offroad is 90% tires anymore, wrong tire, and you can make all the adjustments in the world it wont help ya...just get the same tires the fast guys are using, and sometimes you may need a couple different types, if your local track changes conditions (dries out or becomes dusty/slippery). Ask questions, usually people are willing to help.

I will give you more on my set up soon (crossing fingers), I am down to tires/shock towers left to purchase (oh, body, LOL). After hitting the track, I will be updating my thread with thoughts and changes.