My New Gold Runner w/ 6 gear

[Ruffy]

I'm running the Stealth tranny so no mods are needed, but even with the 6 gear tranny you shouldn't have an issue running 48P gears as long as they have the holes for the 1/8" diff. balls.

Soncho Ponza, rear toe-in on the RC10 originally was only 1.5 deg as I am running it, which comes built into the rear suspension mounts. Then they came out with the left and right side hubs where the left side had the "L" on it, which gave you a little more toe-in on the Team car and Worlds Car. This was due to the tracks back then having very little traction, tires being very limited and allowed us to keep it pointed straight.
The more toe-in you have, the slower your car will accelerate based upon the tires being forced towards each other, fighting each other. Ideally the tires should have as little toe-in as possible for the quickest acceleration.

I personally don't see the need for more toe-in than the 1.5 deg inner suspension mounts since todays tracks are all smooth, blue-grooved high-bite tracks with todays high-grip soft rubber compounds compared to when they designed the RC10 which were all loose, fluffy tracks with hard and medium tires that offered little grip. My RC10 buggy doesn't slide around at all, isn't loose or doesn't need more traction and accelerates like someone running a faster modified motor to boot out of each corner. You would have to see the car in action as it feels and appears to be on rails. The car is very easy to drive, comfortable to go fast with and locked in enough to do some bumping with the B4's if I have to and come out on top.

This is why I prefer to use the 0 deg hubs with todays tracks and tire compounds available.

[Soncho Ponza]

Iv been running mine with 3 degree inner mounts like i did in the 90s.. the out door track i run on is abit slick.. The less toe from my 80 set up like you are running sounds fun. I think a set of 2 degree inner mounts would be fun to make and try too..the newer tires are def stickier so sounds fun...

[Ruffy]

3 deg inner mounts? Do you have the RC10Truck mounts (their 3 deg inner mounts) on your RC10?
The stock Associated RC10 inner rear suspension mounts offer only 1.5 deg toe-in, the later outer wheel hubs from the Team and Worlds car ( with the L for the left side) added another 1.5 deg to the mix for a total of 3 deg toe-in overall.

If you feel you need more toe-in in the back of the car, you could also opt to use the inner suspension mounts for the RC10T truck that came out afterwards(they have 0 and 3 deg mounts) as well as the outer hub they offer 0 and 3 deg outer hubs. Ideally, this was intended to be used as follows:
a. 3 deg inner mounts with 0 deg outer hubs for 3 deg total. Shortens the wheelbase on the truck for quicker/snappier handling.

b. 0 deg inner mounts with 3 deg outer hubs for 3 deg total but out on the wheel which also helps to keep your wheelbase longer due to the 0 deg inner mounts. Keeps the wheelbase as long as possible, but retains the 3 deg of toe-in on the tires/wheels for traction and stability (long wheelbase).

c. This wasn't the intention of Associated, but you can mix the combinations for personal preference for either 0 deg toe in or 6 deg toe-in, but I don't know if anyone ever used it in this manner.

[Soncho Ponza]

Oh ya igot many 0,1.5, and 3 inner mounts, and same with the hubs too. I like seeing what diff people are trying in todays tire world

[Charlie don't surf]

At my local track, 90% of all our corners and jump downsides are all off-camber or setups for turns
on the downside, as a result I have had to go to 3deg to keep the tail in place in these sections-

[Ruffy]

Might also want to try the long wheelbase setup (rear suspension mounts in long configuration holes) if the car feels twitchy or oversteers too much. I personally did not like the way this felt to me when I tested it a long time ago.

[Soncho Ponza]

I have both my buggy and t in the long wb set up. I really like the control going into the corners And for me the Low speed feel great .But wow cumn out. If im not really payn attention the a$$ really can get away from you quick. I really have to come on the gas smooth...

[davidka]

Great read Ruffy, I'm planning on getting an old RC10 together, maybe to run stock with (whatever that means in the world of Tekin RS' ).

I read that you're having bottoming problems so I looked at your setup and saw something I though you should try. On the rear end, change to #2 pistons with 27.5wt oil. The smaller piston holes will make for more "pack" (known as high-speed compression damping in big vehicles). All B4 setups use #2 pistons in the rear these days, albiet with a shorter stroke shock. Definitely worth a try and should also settle the car more in high speed turns.

RE: rear toe discussion. Are the stock mounts 1.5* total or per side?

[Charlie don't surf]

Yup they are 1.5 per side inboard- and you do know you are giving setup advice to a former IFMAR worlds qualifying driver?

[davidka]

Yup they are 1.5 per side inboard- and you do know you are giving setup advice to a former IFMAR worlds qualifying driver?

I saw in there somewhere that he said he had a 14 year layoff. Besides, what should it matter if it's useful advice?

[JHarris]

Ruffy and I are both 2 time IFMAR qualifiers but I know I'll gladly listen to anyone's suggestions. I may or may not use the advice, but I'll listen

[Ruffy]

Thanks, I've considered other pistons (and tried it too) but for my driving style, I use #1 pistons all the way around in both the RC10 and RC10-B4.
I can live with the bottoming-out since it is but on one jump on the entire track where this happens, and prefer to have the car's suspension handle correctly though through-out the entire track instead.
best regards to all

[Ruffy]

Since I painted up a new body shell for my RC10 gold-tub racer, I decided to strip the car down yesterday and took the anodized parts to work and did my 1980's-1990's treatment to the tub, nose and motorplate. Took me a few seconds to remember my old milling techniques, as I haven't milled anything in a long time.
It has taken many months now to get the 14-15 yr old rust off, fine tune the buggy and hands; but now I intend to get serious about the racing... but still have fun!
As soon as I put her together, I fell in love again!

[m_vice]

I don't know what it is man but this buggy looks AWESOME.
Congrats on the Old ride, now lets get some wins in the track.

Now i want one, all gold.

[Ruffy]

Yesterday I bought an LRP X-12 8.5T brushless motor to run today in my Gold Racer RC10 for the 1st time with a real mod motor and it was awesome! We had 3 other RC10Talk members there, and I also brought out my Boxter Replica, Jay Halsey Replica and Curtis Edinger RC10 to the track for people to enjoy as I have been asked a few times for them.

Long story short, the stock RC10 with an 8.5T motor and 5300mah 65C Lipo was a match made in heaven. The car felt like it was on rails! So much traction that I cleared the insane long distance doubles every lap of the qualifier and A Main today effortlessly, and drove thru the corner and onto the straight-away with so much power that the old gold RC10 was in a straight-away long wheelie on numerous laps that kept the spectators gasping, which could be easily heard on the driver's stand. It was amazing to drive from my standpoint and each time on the track, I have fine tuned the car in baby-steps to get it running strong.
Hopefully the other members can chime in with comments from their perspective.

From my perspective:
No need for aftermarket anything, no upgrades for an 8.5T brushless motor required, etc... Stock stealth transmission, stock slipper and pad, gold shocks, #1 pistons -35wt oil, etc... just your normal run of the mill RC10 Championship Edition style buggy.