Bummed on brushless

[knucklebuster]

I bought the 4 pole 5700kv sidewinder to run record speeds in a 10lss. I ran a 4200nimh 6 cell with 78/22,23 gearing and saw no problems. I jumped up to a 78/27 and broke the 60mph with no problems (initially).

10 minutes into the run the system shut down at 195 degrees. I did the unthinkable and continued to run high speed blasts and the system shut down at the end of each run. I can verify the fail-safe works perfectly.

60mph from an rc car is pretty damn cool, no doubt. I thought for sure the fun would last at least 30 minutes in one of the lightest 1/10 rc cars in the world... WRONG!!! I will try the same gearing with 3300 + 6 cell batteries next.

I will obviously need to run a lower kv motor in the jammin scrt10. I would appreciate any gearing insight as the truck is something I know absolutely nothing about.

[junkman]

I'm not real fond of the sidewinder at all, you might try sticking a fan on it and see how it does. I have seen a few of them with the castle blowers zip tied to them.

[Charlie don't surf]

BL gearing is kind of trial and error, the temp method is the most reliable. No more than 180f somewhere in the 135-50 range is optimum, too cold go up a tooth etc.

[teman]

Have you tried 64 pitch or is that setup too powerful? I tried 64 recently and my motor seems to run cooler.

[fredswain]

I would use 160*F as a max safe motor temp. If you go much above this, you can cause physical harm inside the motor. They are far too expensive to damage! Get a smaller pinion on there.

[knucklebuster]

Have you tried 64 pitch or is that setup too powerful? I tried 64 recently and my motor seems to run cooler.

Teman, I always ran 48 in parking lots due to debris. Today my friend ran 64 in the same lot and had no problems so I may swap out. 78/25 is a good setup for the pan car with the sidewinder. His modified 10l and 10t brushed with batmobile body offered up some awesome oval racing. I did see much longer run times, cooler batteries and no overheating.

I would use 160*F as a max safe motor temp. If you go much above this, you can cause physical harm inside the motor. They are far too expensive to damage! Get a smaller pinion on there.

I forgot the temp gauge today

[knucklebuster]

BL gearing is kind of trial and error, the temp method is the most reliable. No more than 180f somewhere in the 135-50 range is optimum, too cold go up a tooth etc.

Thanks for the temp info. I know it shuts down at 195

[teman]

Teman, I always ran 48 in parking lots due to debris. Today my friend ran 64 in the same lot and had no problems so I may swap out. 78/25 is a good setup for the pan car with the sidewinder. His modified 10l and 10t brushed with batmobile body offered up some awesome oval racing. I did see much longer run times, cooler batteries and no overheating.

Me too! Only recently I started playing with 64, glad to hear no more overheating I've had no problems so far with dirt etc, just with spinning the pinion off LOL
-Kevin

[Rootdown4594]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/526539-castle-sidewinder-sv2-1406-neu-4-pole-4600kv.html

that link has some interesting information on the cogging problem

[knucklebuster]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/526539-castle-sidewinder-sv2-1406-neu-4-pole-4600kv.html

that link has some interesting information on the cogging problem

Thanks for the info Rootdown. I was able to overcome the cogging and other interference problems by swapping transmitters. I switched back to my older Japanese Mag Jr. when I realized interference occurred even when I touched the pots on the "newer" transmitter. The pots on the older Jr. are brass, newer are plastic.

I hope the previous shutdowns were a result of increased temps due to interference, glitching and cogging more than the reasonable 78/27 gearing. I plan to step up pinions to the same combo that overheated before. I am running in a parking lot, not a prepared track. Too much power and the car breaks loose. All that to say I am not running the car into the ground. This system would surely burn up in a heavier rc10 running through high traction mud or grass! 78-81/16-18 gearing for the rc10, 78/23 in the pan car to avoid a melt down. Am I expecting too much of a $100 combo???

No wonder my car began to push after a few huge 50+mph ovals... rears have some life left I better pick up a few liters of soda for the track!

[knucklebuster]

I would use 160*F as a max safe motor temp. If you go much above this, you can cause physical harm inside the motor. They are far too expensive to damage! Get a smaller pinion on there.

You are correct sir! Houston, we have a problem. Previous overheating caused the rotor to rub and it now sounds similar to a card in a bike spoke. Still runs like a scalded dog, literally. I will see what Castle has to say about it.

The newer Mag Jr only overcame the cogging issues when bench testing. The problems continued at the track when starting from a stop. The motor actually reverses for a split second when starting from a stop although reverse lockout is set. It sounds mad and cogs the gears whether you go full or feather the throttle from a standstill.

This does not appear to cause overheating issues as the temps remained low at around 150-60 on the motor, 130 on the esc. I did not check the temp when cogging, only after running packs through.

I swapped out the 4 pole 5700 with a friends cm36 4600 and was able to add a few teeth without any temp increase. In fact, the temp dropped about 10-15 degrees.

[EvolutionRevolution]

You're sure your batteries are good enough to run with brushless? Brushless pulls a lot more juice than brushed and your batteries might not be able to deliver enough to complete the run.