Re-living my childhood - RC10 CE

[JamesB77]

Hi Guys,

I was sorting through all the various things I have stored and came across my old rc-car. I have 2 (one was my brother's) RC10's with the gold tub. I think they are the Championship Edition from around '89-'90. Both cars are the same, with the old mechanical speed control and 6 gear tranny, and both were upgraded from the original bushings to bearings. I really enjoued running them and would like to get back into it. Reading around the form a bit I notice a tonne has changed in 20 years. I would like to build one of the buggies to ROAR standards. What is this going to take? New A-arms and wheels? brushless motor? I think I may try converting the other one to a truck.

Here is a pic of what I have. The dyed parts used to be blue, time had faded them to purple.

[Charlie don't surf]

Very cool cars, they are both RC10CE's and are.still very capable on the track. The main mods you would look at is a way to mount current rims in the rear via 3/16 rear cvds so you can run current tires. The 6 gear tranny can still be run, but is a a bit of a disadvantage with out the slipper clutch so you may want to install a stealth tranny. That's really it other than a current brushless system and replace those 1700 Sce's with a lipo

[JamesB77]

Where would be the best place to get a stealth tranny?
The more I read the more I want to upgrade. Klein arms, new shock towers and shocks, ugh, this could get pricey.

[Charlie don't surf]

you don't have to go to the Klien setup with all the trimmings, in fact there are a few of us that just prefer the standard geometry car and think it runs best as it was designed- here are a few of the simple things to do to race your buggy competitively

1) RC10 B2/B3 CVDS, these let you run current 2.2 thunder tiger phoenix bx rims
2) 0 degree rear truck hubs, used to use the 3/8 x 3/16 bearings you will need
3) four 3/8 x 3/16 bearings, to fit the CVD set
4) thunder tiger phoenix bx rear rims
That will set you rear end up, other little things like rear camber link placement, that stealth trans and possibly 3 deg rear arm mounts depending on your track surface

The front end is just about as simple-

1) 25 or 30 deg caster blocks, you car likely has 15's which is too little most everywhere
2) AE six hole front tower, better adjustability for shock placement
3) RC10 DS steering bellcranks, way more durable than the old ones
4) thunder tiger phoenix bx front 2.2 rims

That's about it, other than simple things such as more durable Titanium turnbuckles and other race goodies. Total cash to do all above under $100 easy-

EBay for the stealth trans, they are reasonable right now for used ones complete-

[seth556]

I'd rotate the battery location, move the servo up, and change it so you can run 2.2 wheels. Some people run the 6-gear but the stealth is going to be a lot better for racing. Also you'll probably want to change the bellcranks. Otherwise you're almost there. I can help with the setup if you need, I have a pretty good one from Ruffy.

[JamesB77]

Thanks for the help guys. I think I've decided with one of the cars to do a full re-build using new arms, Worlds front shock tower, Rulux wheels etc. Ive been in touch with Daryl Lane from A&L about one of his steering set-ups and am trying to get a stealth transmission.

Is the motor mounting plate for the stealth tranny any different from the 6 gear one?

[JamesB77]

I have decided to restore one car and do a New/Old build with the other.
This car had the chassis with the least amount of gouging in it so it's the one that will be restored


I was able to spend a couple of hours on it and started pulling everything apart.
As it was with the body off. It must have taken quite a hit, if you look closely you can see that the front right nose tube is bent along with the corner of the nose.


With all the electronics removed.


Nose plate removed complete with 20 year old dirt and oil.


And finally some of the pieces cleaned up. Since this nose plate is bent I will probably use the one from the other car. The parts that were dyed blue I am going to attempt to get back to the original off-white.

[JamesB77]

I was able to get the rest of the car broken down this morning. Here is the original motor and what the under-side of the pan looks like.



I need some advice on what to do about the pan. Should i just leave it as is or try sanding it down a bit and re-annodizing it?

Another question. The chassis is an A stamp and does not have mounting holes for the stealth transmission. Is there a template avaliable for drilling the holes?

[JamesB77]

Right, I found the drilling template for the Stealth tranny in this thread. Thanks to ROH73 for that.

I'm putting together a shopping list for the first car does this seem about right?

Front
B4 caster blocks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXEAA1&P=K
Thunder Tiger Front wheel http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALSA&P=SM
I'm going to leave the Bell cranks and shock tower the way they are for now.

Rear
RPM RC10T & GT Carriers 70272 with 7028
MIP B2/B3 CVDS http://miponline.com/store/mip1161.html
Thunder Tiger Rear Wheel http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALSD&P=SM

Is there anything i'm missing?

[jwscab]

you will also need axles and the cvd rebuild kit

[JamesB77]

Thanks for the reply.

So I will also need these axels for the B4
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEAD8

And one of these rebuild kits
http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/7381/

I assume that the B4 axels are a different size than the stock ones and means I will also need new bearings for the front wheels. Is this correct?

[jwscab]

No and Yes.

the axles you show are front axles, and they won't fit the CVD.

these are B4 rears:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXDM8&P=7

and the CVD's rebuilds look right.

You could also in theory just use the B4 axles with your existing dogbones if you wanted to get the car up and running a little more cheaply.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEJ8&P=7