Charlie don't surf wrote:Good, so the snoflakes are already on the way to me then?
Yes, just need to confirm your address.
I'm working on another build (I've got too many projects that are only half way done) that I plan to use them on. It's a Speed Fusion tub, but I'm still in the planning stage for that one.
Thanks for the compliments on my other builds. I've got a few Mr Lexan reproduction bodies, but I'm not sure on which one to use or the paint style.
AMAZING!!!!!!!!!! I'm just about to get started on my 4-10 as well... and I also have a set of those bearing arms - but I think you're going to have a hard time using the titanium hingepins if I remember correctly. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the titanium hingepins are slightly larger diameter as compared to the stock pins so they won't fit into the bearings in your suspension arms. Crack those arms open and have a look at the instructions; I think that is where the bad news may be.
xxxmain wrote:AMAZING!!!!!!!!!! I'm just about to get started on my 4-10 as well... and I also have a set of those bearing arms - but I think you're going to have a hard time using the titanium hingepins if I remember correctly. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the titanium hingepins are slightly larger diameter as compared to the stock pins so they won't fit into the bearings in your suspension arms. Crack those arms open and have a look at the instructions; I think that is where the bad news may be.
Good luck,
Jeff
Yes, they are larger in diameter. I remember the instructions clearly when I used those on my gold metal shelfer build. Luckily they still worked on the Atlas aluminum parts without modification if I recall, or maybe I did end up widening the holes in the Atlas parts, can't remember for sure. But there definitely was a note/reminder in the RCPS package.
xxxmain wrote:AMAZING!!!!!!!!!! I'm just about to get started on my 4-10 as well... and I also have a set of those bearing arms - but I think you're going to have a hard time using the titanium hingepins if I remember correctly. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that the titanium hingepins are slightly larger diameter as compared to the stock pins so they won't fit into the bearings in your suspension arms. Crack those arms open and have a look at the instructions; I think that is where the bad news may be.
Good luck,
Jeff
Yes, they are larger in diameter. I remember the instructions clearly when I used those on my gold metal shelfer build. Luckily they still worked on the Atlas aluminum parts without modification if I recall, or maybe I did end up widening the holes in the Atlas parts, can't remember for sure. But there definitely was a note/reminder in the RCPS package.
You are right and it is disappointing. I haven't opened the package yet, but I do remember reading that in a RCCA magazine ad. I still have some drilling and cutting left to do on the nose plate, but once the plate is ready the rest of the build shouldn't take long.
Looking forward to seeing this. I've seen the Quarter Flash arms, but I don't recall right off seeing them actually used in a build. One for the RC10talk Hall Of Fame for sure!
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring." Ken
Another project I recently picked up. Came with MIP trans, unknown graphite chassis (MIP?) Andy's short front arms, Andy's rear arms, and mics other parts.
I have some long Andy's front arms to use, polished SS universals, as well as Houge steering...
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Well...the Optima Mid could use bearings in the trans and hubs, as it has bushings. One half of the front bulkhead is damaged, so need one of those, as well as wheels/tires and a body.
Overall though, it's in good shape....started cleaniong and...
I purchased this tub and front plate from the Fibre-Lyte guys last August or so, just for this build. Now, I finally have the MIP kit - so here it goes. I'll add more photos of the project as things progress...
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Try RETRO/RC ,he has loads of MIP 4WD parts and he could use the extra $$$ im sure.
So when I was growing up I was fortunate to have a RC10; however, I never had enough money to have any of the great hop ups out their at the time.
We typically raced indoors on carpet in Michigan. All of the older guys were always gracious to give...
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Well...had a chance to get this up and running...
I kept it as vintage as I could with the Novak vintage speed control. I had a new modern brushed motor from another lot I purchased (I remember my motor was the Trinity Monster back in the day). I...
Starting a brand new thread for this one, I got a killer project for that chassis I bought at first mainly for the Tecnacraft turnbuckles and the Graphite chassis. When I received the lot yesterday, I was pretty amazed and surprised because the...
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Thanks for the info Jay, I like it too and never saw one before, must be quite hard to find... If ever you want to get rid of the one you have, you knwo who to PM :wink:
Bdrmbully, thanks for the compliment, I hope this car will make you want a...
Last year during a conversation with a fellow racer at a local club meet I learnt that he had a very rare MIP 'LEGENDS' belt conversion set new and still sealed in the factory selaphane. After agreeing on a price we were set to make the trade at a...
Just finished this build over the weekend. The MIP kit showed up in a parts lot I bought off craigslist about a year ago. It was a nice find because I didn't know it was included. The only part that wasn't there was the shock tower (Thanks Shodog :D...
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Do you have any pics of the tailing arm parts seperated out.
Sorry, I didn't take any pics of the trailing arms before I put it together. Was too excited to start building after I had the slots in the chassis cut.
This build will use all Andy’s & MIP parts on a cut-down chassis, with a couple of custom parts thrown in for good measure. I’m using taller Andy’s molded shock towers as I plan to setup the shocks with additional travel. For shocks, I’m using 1.02”...
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Very nice looking. I'm collecting parts to build a driver something like this!