New Build - Graphite, Andys, MIP

[Mwp1111]

So when I was growing up I was fortunate to have a RC10; however, I never had enough money to have any of the great hop ups out their at the time.

We typically raced indoors on carpet in Michigan. All of the older guys were always gracious to give me a hand and try to keep my car running despite typical breakdowns etc.

In any case, my kids have started to show an interest in RC and I have been running SC for while (SCTE with all of the upgrades). Feeling nostalgic, I started to compile a number of vintage parts, etc to build the car that I could never afford as a kid.

Here is the starting point - graphite chassis, MIP SP1 gearbox (freashly rebuilt), MIP CVDs (on their way), V2 shocks for now (if I can locate a set of MIP shocks I will swap out), lundsford retro turnbuckles (on their way), Andys arms both front and back, standard shock towers, Andy's front bumper, A&L steering (I have it inverted right now since I was having a clearance issue with the graphite chassis).

I am new to this forum, but the information exchange so far has been great. I was having so much fun with this build I started a similar build as well in a black theme though...almost identical as above.

If anyone can provide guidance on the A&L steering issue, it would be helpful.

[knucklebuster]

Killer start

I use a thin 8/32 aluminum nut to secure the steering post screws and add clearance for the chassis and linkage.

[j-sou]

great start there It's a lot of fun now (I'm in the same boat it sounds) to track down and buy parts we couldn't afford as kids! That has motivated many cars I have built.

My little one is still a few years away from being ready for R/C, but I've already got a couple ready to go for her.

[Mwp1111]

Thanks for the advice with the nut...I will try that.

Made some more progress...I will post some new pics later today.

[knucklebuster]

No problem Also, if using the thin nut you are not using nylon steering posts to secure the screws. The post can be left hand tight as they are no fun removing if the screws tweak!

[Mwp1111]

Had a chance to do some more work on the build. I fixed the Al&L sterring issue I had with a thin nut as a spacer (thanks knucklebuster). I added the Andys front bumper, Lundsford retro titanium turnbuckles, Thorp heavy duty front axles, MIP CVDs and a freshly rebuilt MIP SP1 gear box (ball diff) which feels great. I added the vintage Bolinks just like I had back in the carpet racing days...they are used a bit but overall in great shape

Next steps will be to get the motor, spur gear, servo, etc on. I also need to decide on the top brace and I need to fill the shocks (although I would prefer a set of MIP shocks if anyone knows where I could source:))

[knucklebuster]

Looks good!

[Mwp1111]

Picked up a MIP Gear Diff Set (thanks Phin!)...thinking about installing on this build. I would probably make this a brushless system so I guess the Torq control will have to stay in the bag since I assume it would not handle brushless 17t motor very well:)

I assume you would just drill the case for the torq control....if someone can confirm that would be good to know.

[Phin]

You will need to drill a hole through the side of the case for the torq control's adjustment screw.

I don't know how well the small planetary gears in the diff would hold up to a brushless motor. For running the car you may want to pick up a spare re-re Tamiya 84113 ball diff for a Sand Scorcher. You'll need to shorten the outdrive shafts but otherwise it's a drop in replacement.


If you want an additional slipper the A&L Power Clutch is available (http://vintageteamaandl.com/) or you can try to adapt a modern slipper clutch like I did awhile back. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=26414

[Mwp1111]

I had a chance to build the gear diff, but not sure if it is feeling right. I never owned one of these growing up, so I have no frame of reference....I guess I assumed it should be buttery smooth, but it seems to catch from time to time despite me re-building it a couple of times...anyone have any experience with this gear diff and what it should feel like? How do I know when it is right?

I was planning to use maybe modern 60K or 100K silicone diff fluid.

Phin - thanks for the heads up up on the A&L clutch...I have a plastic insert on my other MIP tranny's (I think it is also a sand scorcher fit) that just screws in directly - no spring, etc.

Again - any advice would be helpful.

[Phin]

I had a chance to build the gear diff, but not sure if it is feeling right. I never owned one of these growing up, so I have no frame of reference....I guess I assumed it should be buttery smooth, but it seems to catch from time to time despite me re-building it a couple of times...anyone have any experience with this gear diff and what it should feel like? How do I know when it is right?

I was planning to use maybe modern 60K or 100K silicone diff fluid.

There's some advice on that in this thread: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4403

[Mwp1111]

Ok...thanks to Phin for pointing me in the right direction...took the advice with the toothpaste and drill....wow...it worked!

I ran it on the drill for about ten minutes a side or so, cleaned it and re-lubed....buttery smooth now....

Thanks guys.

[Phin]

Nice. You'll still want to use a light lube in it if you plan on running it, being as it's metal on metal gears.

[Mwp1111]

Phin,

What would you recommend?

[Harvey Wood]

Amazing building dude. thanks for detailed photos.