RC10T-X-Andy's Build

[teman]

Besides the kiddo's T3 build, I haven't really built ANYTHING in months so as some of you know a custom 10T-X is on the bench I have a pretty good idea of what I want to build, just have sort out all the parts for it. The front end is almost done, it's a hybrid of course hence the "X". I'm using the T bulkhead, 10T2-GT arms, 10T4 25 degree castor blocks/steering arms, 10T3 inline axels, Lunsford T2-T3-GT Ti turnbuckles with Durbro swivel links and new Duratrax for RC10T shock towers.

The NIP gold T shocks came today, so that's next and then onto the rest of the suspension followed by the transmission and drivetrain. At that point, the other remaining items should be here so this will have to be continued at a later date. Almost everything is on it's way, it should be fun

So far so good with only 1 issue, the inner hinge pins manuals say I need 7209, but it doesn't fit IF I can't find the right pins I plan to use the longer 10T3 rear inners (9260 shimmed as shown) but I hope to find the part that DOES actually fit If anyone knows, please-please share - *fingers crossed* Enough of the intro and onto photos

[teman]

Here's the shock set-up I just finished, the gold T3 set I already had the springs, top T3 spring retainers and clamps, just needed the shocks themselves and the RPM shock bottoms of which I bought new last week More coming soon

[teman]

Here's the rear end, mostly stock with a stealth, my custom made CC transmission brace and the super cool gold anno'd slipper that I bought a while back I'll have a choice with the drivetrain between dogbones / 1/4" axels, universals / 3/16" axels and of course MIP CVD's / 3/16" axels. The universals are there now, however leaning towards the CVD set-up Well that's all for now, decent start I'm thinking Any comments / suggestions always appreciated

[teman]

A few more items arrived and had a little time to work on this today woohoo So far so good minus my ooops on the nose brace tubes where I bought the wrong item by mistake Here's the current chassis, nose plate and some build extras Planning to get my hands on a better chassis in some form or another, this set is a bit sub par We'll see, maybe an Andy's or composite craft, not sure

[teman]

Finally found the time to work on this more, steering has to go as it's causing problems. I think I'll have to switch back to ball ends/cups too since swivels seem to reduce adjustment there. I'll have to look into all that later

Good news is I have the chassis and yes, it's an Andy's
I managed to prep the chassis for the Stealth, finally used the Stealth mounting jig but that's about it I'll get more done soon, waiting for some more parts

[teman]

Worked on this project more today, I was dreading this part of the project a little since I only had one shot at it I ended up mounting a truck nose plate to the chassis and used it as drill jig for the best possible placement, I think it came out better than I ever expected I couldn't bring myself to shave down the nose width so I left that alone. I mounted the RPM arms and the nose doesn't seem to hit the arms so YEAH! I moved on to mounting everything else to chassis, rear RPM arms etc. I while back I acquired a used (dyed black) RPM T bulkhead so it was also added to the build. Last part for today was the CVDs, built, mounted and done.

I still need quite a few things, new ball-cups, body, wheels, ESC, motor & etc. There's some other issues that need to be resolved like bracing the nose more, but those things will be sorted out soon enough. All things considered, I'm pretty happy with it so far

[Mr. ED]

Maybe you could leave the template part you used for drilling the nose in place to give it the extra strength you want?
I don't have a clue how strong the chassis itself is, but my gutd are telling me a top-deck or mid-deck would help a lot in adding stiffness against torsion.

[justinspeed79]

RC10GT nose braces would be perfect for bracing the nose. Cool truck

[teman]

Maybe you could leave the template part you used for drilling the nose in place to give it the extra strength you want?
I don't have a clue how strong the chassis itself is, but my gutd are telling me a top-deck or mid-deck would help a lot in adding stiffness against torsion.

I though of that, but weighs the nose down ALOT. I think I have a good plan.... *fingers crossed*

RC10GT nose braces would be perfect for bracing the nose. Cool truck

Thanks and that's my thoughts EXACTLY I have the rc10GT FT carbon tube mounts #7314, waiting for the black GT nose tubes. Again I dislike drilling the chassis however, I think I need to brace the nose or it will snap. The chassis rear seems OK with that extra molded area back there. I don't know if the A&L chassis stiffener set will work with this long of a chassis, maybe with buggy length tubes and the GT brace mounts? The next thing up is the body I have the Ford Baja repro at the moment, not sure if I want to use that or....? It's a really WIIIDE body, I'll have to change to GT wide front axels if I choose to use it I did decide on the wheels, I ordered black RPM revolvers I don't know what tires yet, maybe Pro-line Gladiators?

[teman]

A little more done today, I had to ditch the carbon GT mounts since the chassis edge disallowed enough room to mount them where they lined up with the tubes. I ended up settling with the aluminum (?) versions #7767 which allowed my to mount them where nothing was in the way Drilling and countersinking the tube mounts was a little annoying, but came out well I thought the new GT tubes were supposed to be black, but the look a little more like olive to me. EH, no big deal I guess I did manage to stiffen up the front end bigtime with doing this. It would be pretty tough to snap it now

I'll be refocusing attention back to the body next unfortunately, I'm not sure if it will be any use with this project. I think it's just too damn wide to slam it Well anyway, here's photos of the front end after modification...

[Mr. ED]

P1050515.JPG

By placing the mounts in the flat section in front of the angled up sides you have a narrow zone that will take all the stress.I suggest you add a link between the sides of the mount and chassis sides.

I hope you can make the body work: looks good on it

[teman]

P1050515.JPG

By placing the mounts in the flat section in front of the angled up sides you have a narrow zone that will take all the stress.I suggest you add a link between the sides of the mount and chassis sides.
I hope you can make the body work: looks good on it

The "stock" weak section in the nose I'd say is right in front of the bellcranks, I can tell by simply flexing the chassis. My mod seems to transfer the stress point almost completely to the center of the chassis. With a battery in place, it seems I'm good to go I may switch back to a stock battery cup to add strength there if needed.

I'm working on the body, it's painted now and adding pinstripe type vinyl graphics. I hope that I don't have to raise the body up too much to use The GT axels upfront helped a little, but I still get wheel contact when the front shocks compress and the wheels are turned I understand that this body was never designed for truck shocks however I hope to resolve that somehow without making a top heavy MT