Andy's RC10T

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scr8p
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Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

oh lord... forgive me for taking thy dremel to thy brand new andy's molded truck chassis. :lol:

i was staring at it last night and thought, ya know what? this could make a cool rc10t chassis. the length is already there (actually a tad TOO long). so i cut, drilled, and countersunk the front kickup to 10t/worlds status. i also had to drill and countersink the holes for the steering bellcrank further to the rear, since the provided holes are for either the andy's slider bellcrank, or any designed to fit the rc10 buggy. and while i was at it, it drilled it for a stealth trans, too. eventually when i get them, i want to put the older gt cast nose brace tube mounts on it, and i also need to get a set of c.c. 10t bellcranks, since the stock ones don't work right using this chassis.

i kinda think this is gonna be 2009 V-nats truck class entry when it's all done. :)
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wyldbill
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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by wyldbill »

sweet, i always wanted to do that if i ever found one. i was worried about how rigid the rear half of the chasis is just behind the spot where the side ribs stop. does it flex at all around that area with all that truck suspension hanging on it ? now get out the 3m panelbond and fill in thoes 3 unsightly holes under the front bulkhead.

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

wyldbill wrote:now get out the 3m panelbond and fill in thoes 3 unsightly holes under the front bulkhead.
bumper. :wink: :mrgreen:

the chassis does flex, but it's not horrible. once the trans is in as well as the trans brace it'll be better. i don't know if you've ever seen one in person, but these chassis' are pretty thick.... which helps.

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by Mr. ED »

well, if the lord doesn't forgive you , you're allways to come and play with this in my spot.

A well designed battery strap should help reducing the flex too. Some flex is good though, makes the car more forgiving and easier to handle...

looking fwd for more pics of this

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by aeiou »

Wow, that didn't take ya long. :lol: Looks great!

BTW, I think I know where you can get a bullnose bumper for that guy... :wink:

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by MikeyD »

Nice job. 8)

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

aeiou wrote:BTW, I think I know where you can get a bullnose bumper for that guy... :wink:
:mrgreen:
MikeyD wrote:Are these the bellcranks you need?
yep, those are the ones. when i have the extra cash, i'll be picking up a set. the stock bellcranks don't work because there's no noseplate for the factory screws to tighten to, and the chassis is too thick to be able to use a nut. so, the ones from c.c. are pretty much my only option.

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by Brat »

How do you get all the screw holes for the front nose right?
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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

i just use a 10t noseplate/bulkhead as a template.

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by n33no »

Looks great... Is there anything you can't do with a RC10 scr8p?

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

n33no wrote:Looks great... Is there anything you can't do with a RC10 scr8p?
yup. i can't get halgar to own one, and i can't get jay to build one. :mrgreen:

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by aconsola »

What about using thin nuts like these:
http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_Plain_Nuts_p/asc8182.htm
They are not much thicker than the thick aluminum washers used under the stock bellcranks. I've used thise on cars where the noseplate treads are stripped and it seems to work fine clearance wise.

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

the 10t nosplate screws are only threaded enough to catch the noseplate. the rest of it is smooth, except for the very top. that has a 4-40 thread for the nut to hold the bellcranks on. with how thick these chassis' are, the 8-32 threads don't even come out of the chassis. i'd have to drill about 1/2 of the chassis' thickness away, then countersink the hole for it to possibly work with the stock 10t bellcrank.

see what i mean with screws........... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2928&P=SM

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by aconsola »

:oops: Forgot about that part. It uses the same system as the GT. You could always get a long 8-32 screw and chuck it in a lathe to turn it down to fit the steering arms with a longer amount of threads remaining at the bottom, but that would probably be more work than just buying the CC setup.

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Re: Andy's RC10T

Post by scr8p »

just for the aftermarket flavor, i'm gonna go with the c.c. setup when i do the "real build-up". i just ripped apart my original 10t for now just to kinda mock it up. i want to put my original back together. this andy's chassis will most likely end up with all black parts..... rpm arms, 2.65 trans conversion, rpm 10t rear bulkhead. and some c.c. shock towers to go along with the c.c. bellcrank.

one day. :)

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