JK Racing wrote:oh heck no, this isnt RCTECH!! wasnt sure you saw that on the header cards is all we are all here together to get these beasts back on the track and kickin some plastic butt...its all good
Yeah, I did order the ones that you posted in your pics above. I am good to go! Thanks again for that insight!
if you're talking about the shock towers, the front one pictured above will not work on your car. you need the narrow "worlds" style tower they offer.
Just out of curiosity, why will only the narrow one work for my setup? Does have to do with how it attaches to the RC10GT bulk heads? Thanks.
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
I made a little more progress on my RC10 this evening. I focused on the front end and installing the GT bulkhead and nose tubes. I thought that it turned out quite well.
The next thing to tackle is the steering servo arm and attach it to the steering mechanism. I might have to run to the hobby store tomorrow and look for a small turnbuckle as that is what it seems to need.
More to come.
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
Mounting a Lipo battery.... how have you guys handled this for your cars? What mods did you have to make to the stock battery braces front and rear, if needed? Please post pics if that is easy to help illustrate.
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
front battery cup has a few different ways you can go...
drill new holes further forward in the chassis
cut the front of the battery cup and let the battery go through (what I did)
use a shorty lipo & back fill with foam
Oh, the front end looks great.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
For the battery mounting, just ditch the stock battery cup altogether. I used B44 thumb screws and battery posts, work beautifully and just have the front servo mount to prevent it from moving forward (which it wont cause its shoehorned in as it is).
The Gens Ace 5000 mah lipos fit perfectly. I had to stuff it in the rear bulkhead a little bit but hey, its a runner so not a big deal.
mdutcher wrote:I made a little more progress on my RC10 this evening. I focused on the front end and installing the GT bulkhead and nose tubes. I thought that it turned out quite well.
rc10 a.jpg
rc10 b.jpg
The next thing to tackle is the steering servo arm and attach it to the steering mechanism. I might have to run to the hobby store tomorrow and look for a small turnbuckle as that is what it seems to need.
More to come.
This might be a mock up thing on your front end, but you have 0 or 5 degree caster blocks in there right now- you'll want to switch those out to a 25 or 30
you also need to slide the nose plate back to shorten the wheel base and fix what will most likely be steering geometry issues. either that, or keep the long wheelbase and move the steering bellcrank forward to the front set of holes.
mdutcher wrote:I made a little more progress on my RC10 this evening. I focused on the front end and installing the GT bulkhead and nose tubes. I thought that it turned out quite well.
rc10 a.jpg
rc10 b.jpg
The next thing to tackle is the steering servo arm and attach it to the steering mechanism. I might have to run to the hobby store tomorrow and look for a small turnbuckle as that is what it seems to need.
More to come.
This might be a mock up thing on your front end, but you have 0 or 5 degree caster blocks in there right now- you'll want to switch those out to a 25 or 30
Oh, I did not notice that and thank you for letting me know. I think that currently the caster blocks are 5 degree based on the number that is written underneath them. What is the difference between a 25 or 30 degree? I will need to shop around for those... any suggestions on where I might be able to look for them that will work with my current A-arm set up?
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
scr8p wrote:you also need to slide the nose plate back to shorten the wheel base and fix what will most likely be steering geometry issues. either that, or keep the long wheelbase and move the steering bellcrank forward to the front set of holes.
I noticed that I have that flexibility to move the front end around as you have noted. However, if I were to slide the nose in, then what would have to take place for the longer nose tubes? Would those have to be cut down to size?? If I chose to not do that, than I would have to move the steering bell crank forward to the other set of holes.
When you say steering geometry issues with my initial setup, what would you anticipate to occur? With the correction as you have indicated, what will be the anticipated steering output?
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
So, here is my latest update. I will let the pictures do the talking first.
I think that it is coming along just fine. What I have done at this time were:
RC Carbon Works Rear Shock Tower
B4 spacer and additional spacer on rear axle
Front GT Bulkhead
Front GT Nose Tubes
Front Caster block 30 deg
Moved steering assembly to forward holes
Added electronics (servo is just temporary)
Still to come: B4 Threaded shocks
Enjoy!
FT RC10B4.2*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*XP
RC10 Re-Re*Dualsky ESC*Reedy 17.5T*Savox
RC10 CE*Novak GTB2*Dualsky 13.5T*XP
RC10T and other vintage goodness
Hi your car looks great im in the process of doing up a worlds car to race just wondered where do you get the front stub axles from I think I need those to over come the difference in wheel off set to run b4 wheels?
Firstly, a quick hello as new to the forum. I have been lurking and drawing inspiration for a few weeks now, and as the parts have started to arrive, thought it time to say hello.
I am currently putting parts and hopefully a donor car together for...
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After reading your posts, and seeing pics of your runner build...it has inspired me to keep my world's chassis and build it a different way, and not so much building it in stock form. Thanks!
Just got my first original RC10 to complete the set of AE 2wd buggies.
It's not great but it'll do the job since I want to be able to thrash it on the track. Came with the chassis, nose plate and motor plate painted blue so didn't really know what I...
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Nice car... And if don't mind put me down for a set of those rims to :mrgreen:
Just wanted to say hi and ask a quick question. After scouring the internet, I found a car that was virtually (Spec wise) identical to the car I had in high school. It may not be the most desirable (Cadillac A Stamp) but it was the one...
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If you plan on using the gears then yes soak them , I forgot to do it on an SG Coyote main gear and after a few runs the gear teeth didn't just strip , they turned to powder !
RPM 91 worlds suspension will be going on this car. Made the braces today, plan on chopping the sides Siebenelch style. Figured it would add some strength.
More pics to follow as I get progress made...
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That would be a RPM RC10T bulkhead that has been dyed black.
Hi guys,
I have an RC10 'WORLDs' car and after cleaning it up I'd like to ask for some advise on what parts i should be looking for.
I realy dont like the tie rods that are on this car. They look identical to the early gold pan items and the ball...
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Losi makes a nice natural white (but not RPM white) heavy 4/40 ball cup, same length as the
RPM ones, and easy to find if you look hard the bottom worlds car in the pic has em' (before I found NIP AE ones--
Hey, there! After I have a Team Car Runner I wan´t to build up a worlds car for shelf purposes! Therefor I just bought an acid dipped Worlds Car chassis for unbelieveable 320 bucks!!! Actually my wife´s gonna kill me, when I tell her!!! :shock:...
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I thought these chassis were still available in Europe. I seen them listed on multiple sites in the U.K. nib. Either way the chassis looks nice. Good luck on your build.
Especially in Germany the chassis and even the Car itself are really rare! I...
Just got finished with the tear down and rebuild of my new acquired RC10 Worlds. This buggy was in pretty good condition when I got it. Just need to finish the electronics.