T-MAXX TROUBLE SHOOT HELP.

[K-TOWN-KITT]

They are the wide ones. Why would you want to get the narrow ones? Do you have trouble turning?

Thats nothing. I have at least twice as many rc-10 parts.

[justinspeed79]

Mostly just to get a more scale appearance. Not worried about turning, already have a spool in back, so turning pretty much went out the window already anyway. Thinking about putting a spool in front too. I built this truck to be a mudder, not worried about anything else.

Do you know if anyone makes a spur gear bigger than 82?

[K-TOWN-KITT]

I have the extended chassis with some Geode wheels with splines for it. Even with the longer arms, it should look to scale. I have decided to go with the RPM arms all the way around, Well RPM in the front and commons in the rear. Besides, I only have a half set of the aluminum arms. I was going to put them in the back but I don't like the idea of aluminum on aluminum against the bulkheads. Besides, if the truck is all aluminum, there won't be any give when I hit stuff and the aluminum will bend. I got busy yesterday and didn't get to work on it. I just started putting the truck together this morning and here is where we are at.

[justinspeed79]

I had rpm arms on mine, but wanted to go with aluminum just for the bling factor. I agree that the rpm's would be more durable though. Your truck looks pretty nice. I also have a blue and silver theme on mine.

Are you going big block or small block? I have a 3.3 in mine, but it could definitely use more power.

[K-TOWN-KITT]

Dude bought 2 maxx 3.3 trucks new. Sold me the engine half of one of the trucks he ripped in half after 3 tanks for $50. I'm going to run it in as if it were new. I'm friday night fEbay snipping. I just picked up all 4 silver aluminum knuckles from fEbay for $10. and $2.24 to ship.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271204486961?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

What I like is that the entire truck is used with the acception of the body, the 3.3 hinge pins with the allen head, and all the 15mm machine screws with the phillips head. And it's just about all free. All aftermarket parts that I stole along the way from about 12 rebuilt trucks that I have gotten, rebuilt to stock, and resold. Best yet is that I can drive it like any other maxx and not cry when I scratch up some new anno. It's all been prescratched for me.

[K-TOWN-KITT]

Here is how far I have gotten today.

[harry697]

When someone brings me a truck with that many trans issues, I tell them to just buy a complete new one off of ebay. Cheaper and easier for both of us. It truly amazes me what some noobs will do to a brand new truck in such short order. And for some odd reason, the noobs always tend to buy big nitro monster trucks with two-speeds and forward/reverse transmissions. Just what an inexperienced hobbyist needs for a first vehicle. I've seen everything from trucks being brought in with no air cleaners, high speed needle closed tight, a diff installed backwards so the truck plays tug-o-war with itself, and so-on.

This week I had to tune two brand new trucks for a guy. He went into an LHS, the one that I hate going to because the owner is a complete tool and a big reason why people who have no idea what they're doing are walking out of the store with $2000 worth of complicated trucks. One was an MGT8.0 and the other an LSTXXL. Both looked like they've never seen the light of day when he brought them to me. That's probably because he couldn't get either of them to run for more than one minute at a time. Both carbs were dangerously lean for starters (great way to break-in almost $200 worth of new equipment, right? ). Aside from that, the radios were all out of adjustment. The MGT throttle trim was at nearly 1/8th opened at neutral and the steering dual rate was turned all the way down. I set the radios, carbs, and a few other odds and ends and sent them on their way. Wonder how long it will take before I see these trucks again.

[K-TOWN-KITT]

I hear ya. But at least they spent the original 2k at the store. I sell completely rebuilt Maxx 2.5's freshly rebuilt and rtr for $175. locally. They drive them around for a month, beat the snot out of them, and then call me up saying I sold them a piece of junk. I have started telling them to look at it like a 1-24 hobby model. You know like one that you put together with glue and paint. A skill level 1 is snap together and usually around 50 pieces. Skill level 2 is like your average 100 piece model that you glue and usually the hood opens. Then I tell them that the Maxx is like a skill level 3. Like a nascar or NHRA dragster model. A model that has like 250+ parts and everything is intricate. I also tell them that they need to be mechanically inclined. I tell them, if you can't change a set of front brakes on a real car, that these Maxx trucks might not be the right truck for you. I have actually been thinking of what type, brand, and model to come up with for these rc roobs, I ment noobs that I can get cheap and that is nitro and low maintenance.

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As for our rebuild, I have the truck mostly together. Only had to take the trans apart 4 times to get it right. My black pawl kept getting stuck so it was like the truck was stuck in forward. Every time I took the trans apart, the pawl would pop back into place. After I figured out what was happening, I had to adjust it twice. I thought I had gremlins in there. I figured out the chassis is setup for at least a big block if not a 2 stroke weed wacker engine. At that point, after messing with the tranny for 6 hours, I said hell with it. I figured what spur I wanted, got the engine together and on the stock 3.3 mount, and scratched a template out on the chassis. Then I just drilled out the chassis. I just hope the ratio is right. If nothing else, I can go with a bigger spur and smaller pinion bell or the other way around. The only problem I can for see is the body. The engine hole on the body doesn't line up with the placement of the body that I have which is there version of the 3.3 extended. I am going to have to see if there is a extended chassis E-Maxx body out there. If not I'm going to have to start looking at savage flux bodies as alternative. I also have to plum the dual exhaust. I just have the old stock muffler on there so I could start the truck. I have to cut the exhaust manifold and run a longer piece of hose to the pipe.