Part Differences - Old vs. New

[WebSteve]

I wrote up a list of differences between the old and new RC10 parts. I'm running it by the engineer in charge to double-check. I'm hoping I'll be able to post it here when approved.

Those of you who have already spotted differences by the photos alone can post your observations here and I'll add them to my list if they're missing.

You can see the photos from this page: http://www.teamassociated.com/news/latest_products/1182-Parts_for_the_6001_RC10_Classic_Buggy

I can already say that all plastic left- and right-handed parts have an "L" or "R" molded in, where the original RC10 did not. This is not apparent in the photos (the other side is shown).

[ShawnR]

Can't wait for the list..... And I can't wait for the car to be re-released. Sit it right next to the vintage on the shelf. I'm sure and you will be able to tell just by the quality of the plastics. Vintage vs. New



Thanks for your hard work

[DMAT]

Visually I see a few differences on every part, maybe its b/c I did my modeling on them (I need to resurrect my cad thread) But ill do some markups on what I see when I get a chance.

looking at the front axles, looks like it will be offset carrier, no inlines

Is it just me or do many of the parts look to be a different color. It almost has a blueish effect to it.

[Lonestar]

Steve, thanks for everything again

[scr8p]

looking at the front axles, looks like it will be offset carrier, no inlines

Why does that seem to surprise you?

[GoMachV]

Inlines with short arms? Well that would just be silly

[scr8p]

Ya, only speed racer runs them like that.

[askbob]

Will be interesting to see how 'available' all the parts will be.

[ShawnR]

Are they making a limited quantity or are they producing till they don't sell no more

[marlo]

My only concern is, I hope all parts will be distinguishable from the originals. But it sounds like they are.

[WebSteve]

Are they making a limited quantity or are they producing till they don't sell no more

Good question! I don't have the answer. Don't believe any quantities you hear or read.

My position at Team Associated: I keep the website data up to date (not the design work, but the stuff you read), shoot product photography, work with the team for press releases - print and digital, create iPhone and Android apps, and other misc. duties as they arise. I worked on all of the vehicle manuals and catalogs in the old days from the RC10CE through the B3/T3/GT2 days, before others were assigned those tasks. So I've been working here in the graphics and web site departments a little over 20 years.

[WebSteve]

My only concern is, I hope all parts will be distinguishable from the originals. But it sounds like they are.

At this point in my understanding, many of the plastics will have some way to distinguish them, but not all the metal parts. I'm still waiting for the engineer to get back to me for verification of the list I created with him of differences .

[WebSteve]

The ejector pin locations on all the parts will be different as a result of the new tooling. These are the small circular indentations found on the molded parts, which is caused by pins pushing the plastic parts out of the mold tools. Additionally, the "gating" of some of the parts has changed as well and will help in identifying original vs. new parts. The "gating" is where the plastic flows into the mold and the point at which you break it off from a parts tree or runner.

On most of the mirrored parts there is a small "(L)" and "(R)" molded into them to identify left and right plastic parts. This is not found on the original parts. Present on: transmission cases (interior surfaces), front and rear arms, front and rear arm mounts, front caster blocks, and steering blocks.

Steering assembly parts have a "(1)" or "(2)" molded to differentiate the duplicate parts in one tool. Not present on original.
Servo Mount: No need to drill any holes, comes ready to mount standard servos and mount to chassis.

Chassis: The battery cup holes have been moved further forward to accommodate the longer LiPo batteries. The chassis includes the Stealth transmission holes but does not have any letter stamping for identification. Holes for mounting battery sideways are included (primarily for nostalgia, since standard length LiPos are too long to fit sideways).

Nose plate: The "ae" logo has an engraved outline as opposed to an embossed/stamped "ae" logo.

Motor plate has holes for both 6-gear and Stealth transmission and has a slightly different curvature to the rear motor guard portion; best noticed by comparing the new and original.

Spine plate: Aluminum like the original; holes have been adjusted for optimal gear fit. (No more cutting away at the drive axle hole for better fit!)

ALL STAMPED PARTS ARE MADE IN USA!

Rear bulkhead battery enclosure bottom is cut out; only three sides will secure the battery. Original retains the bottom. Also the height of the new bulkhead battery opening is slightly higher to accommodate Lipos.

Antenna mount has a small lip in the inside diameter hole for the antenna tube hole to prevent the tube from being able to be pushed all the way through.

Rear arms have several differences. The first is that they are essentially a white version of the Worlds arm and also feature an "(L)" and "(R)" identification mark.

Nose brace tubes have a nicer natural finish than the original, and the screw holes have a slight chamfer.

Wheels: Difficult to tell the difference, besides just looking at the ejector pin marking and gating.

Shocks: Top-loading design like the later shocks but gold anodized. Utilizes O-rings in cap to seal.

Shock bushings are like the original top-hat design. Would have to compare to an original to tell the difference.

Shock collars are like the original collars without the built-in spring perch. Would have to compare to an original to tell the difference.

Spring cups are based on the later generation with the slot. Would have to compare to an original to tell the difference.

Shock Towers: Routed fiberglass like the originals, made in USA!

Turnbuckles (threaded rods) are made out of stainless steel now instead of Zinc plated to give the car a nicer finish as well as create a difference from the original.

Ball cups: They are the full hex ball cups.

Machined parts: A little more difficult to tell the difference, but typically the finish on the parts is nicer. All of the steel gears are machined tooth profiles instead of machined pinion wire which required filing and polishing - hooray! Unfortunately, machined parts can be counterfeit by anyone so there really aren't any distinguishing factors from the originals, other than typically the fit and finish is nicer.

Body: Window netting in original was defined by wavy horizontal and vertical lines. New version has straight lines.

Wing: Original "small" wing, side dams are a little thicker.

Driver: Original driver figure mold.

Gear cover: Based on the 2nd generation gear cover, it is strikingly clear while the original was translucent.

Headlights: Come ready to mount; no need to drill mounting holes.

Spur gear: The tooth count font and placement is different, and the pin-gating craters are of a different shape and location than in the original.

[GoMachV]

Good stuff there! Thanks Steve!

Btw the idlers look a bit different too

[scr8p]

the shock rod ends are white versions of the current parts...... different than original.

the front shock tower only has one mounting point per side.