My RC10T and T2 Projects

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Piecing together the 'runner' It looks like the t2 rear bulkhead needs replaced as there are ballstuds broken off in each side. The chassis does have a slight case of swiss cheese syndrome so it will never be a nice one, no real point in re anodizing it, if it were a bit worse I would just cut the motor guard off for the b1.5... maybe if I find a rough one not swissed out.

I need to cut a square in the chassis for the transmission as well as drill 4 holes to secure the bulkhead and transmission.

The diff needs the thrust bearings rebuilt and some lower bearings that I stole for the Edinger.

This is likely going to get my blue t4 rtr shocks as well.

Chris

[Asso_man!]

I just got another 10t in the mail from the BST forum, I plan to split it up making a rough t2 trans equipped runner and the transmission into the b1.5 project.

I find the fact they used a titanium Technicraft turnbuckle as a splint for the front a arm excessive and hilarious. We have money for titanium... but not a arms

IMG_1984.JPG

Chris

OMG that ought to be the most fantastic RC repair pic I've ever seen. The guy was for sure determined to end the race. I also loved the red painted hard coated shocks on the T, geez! Nice projects and restos there!

[clm]

OMG that ought to be the most fantastic RC repair pic I've ever seen. The guy was for sure determined to end the race. I also loved the red painted hard coated shocks on the T, geez! Nice projects and restos there!

Lol good thing YOU like those red shocks! They were a PAIN to clean up... and the springs are basically ruined! Good old teflon brobably not the best surface to paint!

Unfortunately neither of the front arms on that 10t parts truck were savable but most of the other parts survived. Most of the white parts are destined for the t2 buggy project that ended up leaving me with both a pile of mostly worthless T2 parts and a 10t tub... oh what am I going to do with a mess like that?

Lets combine them!!

To do this I ended up having to drill 4 holes in the back of the chassis and cut a square hole so the diff could sink down, the 4 holes are not countersunk yet.

Probably the biggest issue I have ran into so far... is my motor plate hits the rear arm mount. oops! A bit of clearancing on the mount should clear that up.

This is not going to be a pretty truck by the way, and I plan to install waterproof electronics in it for the run and hose off ease

Chris

[clm]

I am guessing the associated 7677 diff rebuild kit will work in these t2 transmissions, all the individual part numbers in the diff match up even if the rebuild kit doesn't list the t2?

Chris

[GoMachV]

Yup, gt and t2 are same internal gears and diff

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Thanks!

Chris

[sbcnyc]

i did the same thing to a gold tub... super fun build!! i see your using the stock rear arm holders, if you move them back, run the t2 rear arms with the hub carriers to the rear.... you get a super stable almost modern wheelbase... minimal driveshaft plunge into the outdrives too... make sure to space the axles carriers right... i shimmed the shocks to limit travel slightly so the bone wasnt at the extreme end of the outdrive... t4 cvds fit the treat and you get a bit more room to space the axle itself and bonus touch of width... and with the outter wheel spacers, you can CRANK down on the wheel nut... brushless has killed a few pin rims from not checking...

cool builds!!!!

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It all assembled in that fashion to keep the outdrives centered in the arm mounts, it's being built with the leftover parts from a couple of builds so it is getting the complete t2 suspension components aside from the axle mounts so I didn't need to drill those holes as well

If I moved the arm mounts into the rear most position the lower gear cover retainer screw will be impossible to access without cutting the ear off the arm mount which I am reluctant to do quite yet. It is going to get a pair of lowly dogbones as I have them already. I also need to assemble the shocks for it and pick up a diff rebuild kit and outdrive bearings.

Chris

[integra22t]

I have also realized that getting all the parts to kit-ify this for the kid to build is getting expensive... especially as I still need to locate all the radio gear for it. Inspiration hit me while sitting on the throne (isn't that where it always hits?) I want to disect a Duratrax Evader and figure out what from it I can make fit on my XX and XXT. And they were actually cheaper then what I have left to buy for the T2 And with Tower's discounts and bonuses I end up with a $150 2.4ghx waterproof brushed truck with 2 batteries 1500mah and 2000mah that is ready to go. Well the kid is getting an evader... BUT he still will have to build it first, yes I am just that evil This is a hobby this is not a toys r us pull it out of the box and drive car

Of course I get to take it apart and test the for of much of it first, win win. I get to test evader parts, he gets to build a rtr truck that has a 1 year guarantee against parts breakage. And I don't get stuck with an evader at the end... Losi and Associated whee!

I also got my $60 used Edinger in.. but that will be a story for a different post.

Chris

P.S. Yes, I am still going to have him build this T2 when the kit is 'finished' <Evil>

i just picked up a Duratrax Evader st as i thought it was a xxt

if you need to know anything let me know

[yellabelly]

My sons t wants a set of rims that I can put modern tires on. Have 1pr front 3piece and two pair rear.I'm new on here, don't want to cause a riff but WO new tires his t is difficult to control on our front yard track. Moderators what do u say?

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Well here I go necroing my other build thread.. shame on me!

Well I was bored on the 4th and I had a t2 that had most of the parts and 'The Kid' has long since moved away... So I decided I would just build it. It still needs it's diff rebuilt if you are eagle eyed and notice something missing in the pictures...

The tires on it are almost new, they were badly glued to a set of wheels. I spend a couple days a week ago carefully ungluing them from the wheels after seeing another forum member who did the same. I am VERY surprised and happy on how it worked, it took some patience but the tires are now basically superglue free.. unfortunately the tire foams deteriorated from it and need replaced now.

On building it I noted a few areas where I am missing parts so noted those down to get, and after it was totally built when I went to go mount the servo mounts I learned the only difference in a 10t and t2 noseplate... and now I need to swap the nose plates between the two trucks! DOH!

On the 10T I game across some ad/box art tires new in box a week back, when I received them I mounted them to brand new 3 piece front wheels and put them back in the box... I have no real idea why I have them heh. I also realized I seem to be hoarding 10t wheels and tires 3 sets of kit front tires, 2 sets of worn kit rear tires (a third set on the truck..), the proline box art tires, 4 pair of kit front wheels in the box with a fifth pair on the front of my XXT, Almost 1 and a half pair of rear wheels in the box with both the 10t and XXT with a pair, and one set of narrow wheels and tires... Maybe I should call hoarders?

Both of those trucks are in much better shape then when I got them... and I need to swap the freakin noseplates between them... >.<

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Well the t1/2 hybrid.. t1.5? lol It is a roller and I am starting to plan out electronics.

It looks like I will need to buy a b2 bell crank kit to allow me to mount the servo in this orientation but they are cheap.

It is looking the part of a beat up scrap built rc car though

And the body... it is going to require some creative shoe-goo and lexan repairs at the back, but the truck does not deserve a new one

[clm]

I managed to get a set of b2 bellcrank parts in and as I had guessed I was able to merge them with the 10t style bellcranks. With that I was able to do an inline servo mounting setup, I just have to figure out what radio to use and I should be able to make it a beat up runner