If you were to run the felt seals then the -.008" difference wouldn't matter. It's when you try to use a bearing in place that it does. These bearings are the OEM associated ones so they are good quality and measure out right at .625".SFC K wrote:Excellent Build! Glade you were able to use those parts you had laying around for this. So if your buddy did not have the Bridgeport mill what would have you done to fix the tolerance issue and I wonder if anyone has informed Dhawk about this?
Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
One other hiccup I forgot to mention were the steering linkages

They were designed with 5mm metric mounting screw and bearings instead of SAE 8/32 screws and bearings. The ball studs are tapped for 4/40. To me this is a major oversight as you really can't tight the screws for fear of stripping the 8/32 thread in the nose plate. The bolts on top are secure but it's just a poor design.

They were designed with 5mm metric mounting screw and bearings instead of SAE 8/32 screws and bearings. The ball studs are tapped for 4/40. To me this is a major oversight as you really can't tight the screws for fear of stripping the 8/32 thread in the nose plate. The bolts on top are secure but it's just a poor design.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
nice looking build, jim.
ps - you are not a good spokesman for dhawk products.

ps - you are not a good spokesman for dhawk products.



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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
does the anodizing match the tub that well or did you get it all reanodized to match?
I dont want to cut a seal to find out.
I dont want to cut a seal to find out.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
they are good ideas just poorly executed. with just a bit more refinement, they could be great. Just like the Lohas wheels. they look great but bearing tolerances are sloppyscr8p wrote:nice looking build, jim.
ps - you are not a good spokesman for dhawk products.![]()
![]()
This is the stock annodizing that came on the car. I've seen others that had splotchy annodizing.DMAT wrote:does the anodizing match the tub that well or did you get it all reanodized to match?
I dont want to cut a seal to find out.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
Looks really nice. I bet we are going to see some arms from Dhawk at one point too.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
There may or may not be enough return on investment. I see his aluminum parts kits linger on ebay for days now when they used to get snapped up in a day or so. However if he did make arms, I would buy a set for this buggy.myfordcnc wrote:Looks really nice. I bet we are going to see some arms from Dhawk at one point too.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
Its nice to know what my Rere kit will look like in the future shodog. Only difference is mine will have REC trans and wheels 
Just a thought, why not try 3/8" long screws for mounting the front bulkheads and rear arm mounts. the Screws are flush with the top of the the part and you dont see excess threads.
Did the battery cup you got with that set include the carbon brace and screws? Mine didnt but I put a cup on that other car and ordered a replacement for the set.
Your missing his antenna mount. Its so small compared to the stock ones. like half the size.

Just a thought, why not try 3/8" long screws for mounting the front bulkheads and rear arm mounts. the Screws are flush with the top of the the part and you dont see excess threads.
Did the battery cup you got with that set include the carbon brace and screws? Mine didnt but I put a cup on that other car and ordered a replacement for the set.
Your missing his antenna mount. Its so small compared to the stock ones. like half the size.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
The carbon brace and screws came with the battery cup. I have the antenna mount but forgot to install it before the pics were taken. I'm waiting for a nicer day to take more pics.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
i know its a re-re....but are there any actual associated parts left on it? 

I'm a retro radio control hipster - I only like the stuff no one bought!
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
proffesso wrote:i know its a re-re....but are there any actual associated parts left on it?


Chassis, nose, and motor plate. Wing tubes, nose braces, front axles, ball joints and screws. Transmission spine and axle, large out board bearings. Part of the dampers, springs and the body. Believe me the box of lefts over parts is almost full.
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
Everything you build is worth a look Mate! The tranny comments also help make my day (Yes, I'm that way.
) Chris REC

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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
Re run re run re run!!!! 
Sent from my Nokia Star Tac using Tapatalk

Sent from my Nokia Star Tac using Tapatalk
“It is more shameful to distrust our friends than to be deceived by them.”
― Confucius
― Confucius
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
Thanks Chris, I wanted to buy one of your cases but at the time the orders were being taken I was broke. Your products have always been top notch. I do hope you make some more sand scorcher stuff. I have a chassis, wheels and a dash slated for an upcoming SRB build.toyranosaur wrote:Everything you build is worth a look Mate! The tranny comments also help make my day (Yes, I'm that way.) Chris REC
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Re: Shodog's 2013 Classic RC10 build
I did a little bit of reconfiguring on this buggy.
I bought the Dhawk parts for this build so long ago that he didn’t offer the arms yet. Since then I was able to get a set of the arms and a set of his aluminum damper collars and spring perches. Also added a set of Finely’s aluminum shock towers.
Stole the thorp gears and MIP CVA’s for my sprint build and installed the stock gears and dog bones. Never really liked the 2.2” Lohas wheels so I opted for a set of CRC Tecnacraft replicas that use the stock tires. I really like how it has turned out.


I bought the Dhawk parts for this build so long ago that he didn’t offer the arms yet. Since then I was able to get a set of the arms and a set of his aluminum damper collars and spring perches. Also added a set of Finely’s aluminum shock towers.
Stole the thorp gears and MIP CVA’s for my sprint build and installed the stock gears and dog bones. Never really liked the 2.2” Lohas wheels so I opted for a set of CRC Tecnacraft replicas that use the stock tires. I really like how it has turned out.


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