recoloring parts

[DMAT]

Ok so I have some old parts that were originally white I think and at moment they are a dark red color. So far I've tried out Hydrogen peroxide, Nail Polish remover, weak paint thinner and I've got nothing so far.

Any suggestions on what I should try to whiten the parts?

side question: whats happens to a light bulb with an intact filament but broken bulb if you plug it in?

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... Once white parts have been dyed it's pretty much impossible to get them white again. Your best bet is to re-dye them red or go black.

[DMAT]

Guess I should have stated, I dont know if the parts were dyed because the only the very outside is colored. some of the parts are broke so I can see the inside and they are all white on the inside. Does dyeing the part actually penetrate beyond the surface or does the inside change too? I havent dyed any parts before so I dont know.

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... When you dye parts the dye just penetrates the surface. Usually about 1/32 deep. All depends on the material your dying and how strong the dye is and how long it was dyed for.

[DMAT]

Guess I'll have to try dyeing the parts to blacken them parts. They look really grimey if thats a word and so I was hoping to clean them. Would dyeing the part ruin the pot its done in for future cooking?

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI... Best to use a old pot. Wife might kill you. Lol. I use a small stainless steel pot. This way it doesn't stain. Make sure you clean the parts well before dying. I use Geased Lightning but you can use most cleaners like simple green etc. Also if the part has hole you can use small pipe cleaners to clean them out. You can get those at most craft stores.

[jwscab]

yeah, if you have a grill with a side burner, that also works pretty well so you can dye outside. Or someone here has used a yard sale fryer with the dye in it, turn it on, heat it up, then turn it off and let cool, and should be all dyed nicely.

for cleaning, SimpleGreen works awesome for me, you can find something similar. otherwise, good old hot water and dish soap with some toothbrush scrubbing. the pipe cleaners work great with the simple green to get all the black crap out of the hinge pin holes.

unfortunately, no way to make really dyed parts white again.

[DMAT]

I've got tones of greased lightning for my deanodizing so ill probably use that with my ultrasonic cleaner to clean up the parts. I think I've got a bad pot somewhere so I'll just use it for the dye if I go that route.

want to keep using wide front arms but I'm not seeing black rear arms by AE.

[jwscab]

black rear arms should be pretty easy to find, through ebay and the internet. If not, you can always dye a new set of the re-re arms.

[harvey]

o/p
The filament will burn out immediately.

[DMAT]

Well I did a few different things over the last few days.

rit dye stain remover: it worked well on the fiberglass shock towers. 1 or 2 parts started to lose a little color but barely any.

rit dye white wash: totally crap, worked on nothing

now here is where it got weird. I used some black rit dye. All my previously died parts that had faded to a redish purple turned black. All the white parts turned dark blue. No clue whats going on with it.

The blue is getting darker the longer it sits but its obvious there is still a blue tint.

for reference. I about 3/4 a gallon of water, I did a full bottle of black rit dye. The effects were almost instantaneous. I continued to cook it for around 25 more mins. I originally brought the water to a boil then dropped down to a simmer before adding the dye. Then I slowly kept increasing the heat up until the end.

any idea how long I should hold off for bleeding before I install?

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... I've never had any luck with the RIT liquid dye. I always use the powder. Maybe there is some chemical reaction going on between the new black dye and the dye remover and white wash? Maybe it soaked right into the material and is effecting how the black dye functions?

[DMAT]

the parts that are turning blue werent put in the stain remover or white wash. All the redish purple ones were and now they are a dark black color.

[vsefiream]

HI!... I've never had any luck with the RIT liquid dye. I always use the powder. Maybe there is some chemical reaction going on between the new black dye and the dye remover and white wash? Maybe it soaked right into the material and is effecting how the black dye functions?

I have to agree, I have better luck with black if I use powder. There are still parts that will not dye well, like some bell cranks and some shock towers.
I have used liquid in some cases with yellows etc and it worked well. Start with very clean parts. Add a cup of vinegar to the solution. My mix is roughly one gallon of water, a box of RIT powder (black) and a cup of vinegar. With the light colored liquids I used a half bottle in place of the powder. I usually boil for 15-25 minutes then remove and let cool for a few hours. Then remove the parts, rinse, rinse, rinse, then let sit in cool water over night. Do not use an aluminum pan! after ~10 dye jobs I found a pin hole in it. I use stainless now
I have been able to considerably lighten dye or remove dye transfer with Mr Clean (25%) heated in an ultrasonic tank. You can never get it all out.

Good luck