Help Me Rebuild My Original RC10

[GodSpeed]

FlySky GT3C only took 8 days to get from Hong Kong to Canada, but the package was missing the LiPo battery that is supposed to be included --

I received a reply from the retailer....

Hello,

the lipo battery is not allow ship by Hong Kong Airmail Post. So we are sent the battery to you by other shipping method. The package is coming soon, i think you can receive the package at a few days. please e-mail to us again, if you have any problem.

Sorry for your waiting.

Thank you very much.

[DMAT]

Man thats a pretty penny on electronics.

That servo seems like a good one based on specs but I have no clue. I'm looking to replace a few of mine and havent found a good decent priced one yet.

This is why I bought a controller that could connect up to 10 different recievers so I'd only need to buy the receivers later on. I kept mine with vintage electronics, albiet still decent (novak cyclone, Mr.T 11x3), and just got a good high capacity battery.

Im like 85, I trim my body first then paint.

[85Edinger]

I just trimmed a Viper body for the PB-10, and if I had painted it first the paint would not be in good shape right now.
I hope you get the lipo soon.

[GodSpeed]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know if the servo is any good or if it shakes and goes up in smoke the first day LOL!

If the 800mAh LiPo for the transmitter is a challenge to get, hopefully the two 6200mAh packs don't take 6 months to get here....or are stopped altogether by Customs.

Looking forward to trimming and painting the body now that I have the paint.

[GodSpeed]

I hadn't taken the new body out of the packaging until right now and, lo and behold, I have another question!

The paint I bought says it's for polycarbonate, but the information sheet that came with the body (Associated Pro Buggy Clear Body RC10 #6160) says it's Lexan.

So is Lexan a polycarbonate, or did I buy the wrong paint?

Also interesting that the instructions that came with it were very clear in stating -- "mask and paint on the inside of the body before you trim it."

I'm going to take your advice and not do that. haha

[DMAT]

If its the wrong kind of paint, you'll find out fairly quick when the whole thing starts to crack and chip throughout. I bought a painted body and apparently it wasnt done with the right paint.

[GodSpeed]

It's the right stuff. I just went down to my shop to take another picture of the cans to post and I read the label.

I just asked in another thread I stumbled upon while searching for the answer, but is there a template or detailed pictures floating around here somewhere as to where exactly to trim the body?

[GodSpeed]

New pictures --
















Unsure of ESC layout --

[jwscab]

Lexan is a trademark name for polycarbonate. So all lexan is polycarbonate, but not all polycarbonate is lexan.

[GodSpeed]

Lexan is a trademark name for polycarbonate. So all lexan is polycarbonate, but not all polycarbonate is lexan.

10-4 thanks.

On that topic kind of, trimming these things is nowhere near as simple as I thought it would be. For anyone reading this who is not experienced at trimming & painting, BUY THE PROPER SCISSORS or consider paying a "professional" to trim and paint your car's body for you....if you want it to look good.

Those tight corners around the front and rear shock towers are a FPITA if you want them to look half way decent. I ended up cleaning mine up with a very sharp x-acto knife and a steady patient hand, but one slip of the knife (not hard to do) and you're way off line. If you're using the wrong scissors, you might as well let an alligator chew it up for you.

I've developed a new appreciation for all of you guys who have amazing looking RC car bodies.

NOT looking forward to masking and painting.

[jwscab]

there are a couple of tricks. if you can score and snap in many areas you are ahead of the game, polycarbonate can be trimmed pretty well in most areas like that. scissors are nice for wheel openings. lastly, a small sanding wheel on a dremel works great for tights spots like near shock towers, leaves a nice finish and prevents sharp edges that can be stress risers.

[GodSpeed]

lastly, a small sanding wheel on a dremel works great for tights spots like near shock towers, leaves a nice finish and prevents sharp edges that can be stress risers.

I tried that and found I was getting an ugly edge due to melting.

It ultimately turned out okay, but it wasn't fun to do and it's still not as good as I had hoped.

[GodSpeed]

Anyone ever have a hell of a time rotating the motor into place for proper pinion/spur gear mesh???

I've got a Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 and it seems like the barrel diameter is 10ths or 100ths of a mm bigger than the hole spacing making it so I can't rotate the motor into place.

Am I doing something wrong?

I feel like I'm going to have to somehow shave the adjustment slot (top motor mount screw) in the motor plate wider.

WTF?

It might be hard to tell, but the screw hole on the motor does not line up close enough with the slot to go in --

[GoMachV]

I can't say I've seen that, but you might either make the lower hole larger (easier!) or use the other lower motor hole, which will clock the motor a bit, then use the other top hole which even though it isn't in alignment should be a better spacing

Like this:

Code: Select all

 O     X

    O

 O     X

[GodSpeed]

Weird that you haven't seen this. I haven't been able to stump you yet! haha

I wonder if it's the motor or the plate?

The lower motor hole in the plate is a smaller hole and it's definitely further away than what currently is the problem. I don't think that would work, unless I'm not understanding you clearly.

Making the lower hole that I'm currently using would definitely be easy. That might be the solution, or I'll just drill the upper "slot" wider in the exact location I need. That should be easy enough too.

How tight should I have the mesh? Obviously forcing it together is illogical, but should it be "tight" or should I leave a little bit of play? How much?

Thanks again.