Constantly blowing rear a-arm mount blocks.

[yellowdatsun]

I thought I had a thread on this, maybe not. I'm constantly breaking the rear a-arm mounts that the hinge pin goes through, and they always break at the same place, where the bolt hole is. Seems I go though one per outing. I bought 3 sets of replacements, but after breaking another one yesterday, I'm now considering the aluminum ones.

Yeh, yeh, I know these parts were never designed for todays speeds, but still, I want to run my buggy dangit!

I know that when you beef up one part, it puts the stress on another part. So by using aluminum rear arm mounts, the forces get directed to the a-arm. Thus the dilema, I don't know what's easier to replace, a rear arm, or a hinge block? Probably less things connected to the hinge block, but sometimes it can be hard to wrestle it into place with an arm attached to it. I may try the aluminum ones, and just see what happens.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Some of it is the tubing around the track, if you catch a wheel on an open end of tubing, it's done, you're broke. The second is running with the short course trucks during practice days, which are usually the only days we go. If you get hit by one of those at full tilt, something will be broken.

[yellowdatsun]

Here's the aluminum ones:

The one nice thing, is they'd match the front blocks I just put on.

[teman]

Are the mounts getting loose? maybe an 8-32 nut will help?

[yellowdatsun]

Nah, they don't seem to come loose, just a decent whack breaks them right at that bolt hole.

[RichieRich]

Hey, this is a family forum. I'm sure there is a blowing forum for posts like this.

[bully]

I found the aluminium ones more of a pain on a runner 10T,the screws sustained alot more grief. Aluminium screws bent, broke or loosened up even with thread lock and the steel were a similar thing.. If you are using peroxide treated parts some say they can weaken the material. I have broken a really worn original one and a peroxided one before but that is it. Hopefully you will sort it out mate

[Trackingz]

You could try some nerf bars, but not sure i would go with alloy ones this will put strain somewhere else. It is cheaper to replace rear arm mounts than wishbones or even break the chassis, i have broken one in the past and snapped a few alloy screws, but as my driving has improved less breakages.

[limestang]

What about adding nerf bars? This may shield the wheels from some of the impacts. Proline makes a set, as well as others.

Mark

[yellowdatsun]

The hinge blocks are stock parts, no peroxide treatment. I've blown new ones, and old ones.

I actually did puick up a set of vintage nerf bars in with some vintage bumpers I bought. I may try those.

I think it's just the leverage of the long RC10T arms causing the problems. But did the RC10T truck guys ever have these issues? With their wheel offset it should have been even worse.