Hey!
I’m about to upgrade my 13.5t motor and ESC to 7.5t or something in that range. But I’m on a budget. About $100-150. Can I find somewhat good set of sensored motor and ESC for mod buggy class.
I've had good luck with Turnigy Trackstar motors and ESC from Hobbyking.
If a jobs not worth doing then its certainly not worth doing well.
A problem shared is a problem halved but an advantage shared is no advantage at all.
Yea I looked at those too but all the trackstar motor are out of stock expect the 21.5 and 3.5. Are there any other good budget motor or should I just wait them to get back in stock?
Never tried them (or any electric motor for that matter), but I have been looking around for what’s available to me, and the Hobbywing Xerun and Ezrun motors and ESCs are what I’m leaning towards.
EDIT: Oh, I assumed you were looking for brushless.
Hi I'm updating my 80's vintage RC10 and I want to install a new ESC but I'm on a budget. Looking at a couple on eBay. One's a duratrax slash the other is a dynamite tazer. Does anybody have any input on these. I'm staying sorta old school and using...
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That is a priceless 2 cents! :wink: Sadly, sometimes people do not take good advice!
I'm looking to get a brushless motor setup, I'd like to have a decent amount of power, but nothing to overwhelm my car (stealth transmission gold pan, with B4 slipper assembly). I've picked out a few parts that would seem to work...
Ok, I have this motor that I pulled off my newly found RC10 buggy and I can't seem to find any info on it. I'm curious if anyone knows what turn it is? Also I have this ESC that has been sitting around awhile and I'm curious if they are any good or...
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That's a bit harsh... the ProDigi is an excellent ESC that can run with anything out there from bitd... I have a couple of friends who still race theirs in 2wd mod (where brushed motors are particularly appropriate) with success.
So I run the Castle Sidewinder 3 in both my RC10T buggy conversion, and also in my B4. Same exact setup, they also both have slicks for the clay track.
The big difference is that the B4 has a gear diff, and the RC10T has a ball diff.
What I have...
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I *REALLY* love driving the T-buggy. It's so much more forgiving than my B4. Plus it's fun to surprise some of the newer guys with just how good an old car can be.
I know there's a TON of factors that could play in why the B4 is faster than the...
Im sure this has already been talked about but i couldnt find it. I have a rc10t2 and was told to look at the ez run motors and there are several! not sure how to get the right one.. i want to run the car just dont want the best of the best! just...
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I generally don't gear for speed, but for temps specially the lower KV motors like the 17.5 and 13.5 which I use mainly. As I mentioned, my local track is 1/8th scale and jumps are huge and far apart, so I gear accordingly. My cars don't have an...
I know its probably been covered a milion times but the searching can be a pain! I don't mind links to help point me the the stuff I am asking about though.
First are my cars, esc's and motors. All 1990's stuff. I have a few radios from then too...
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I just checked, they come preset at 0°.
For good brush life and limited wear, I typically run my motors conservatively at 6-8°.
For max power in a buggy, I'd run 15-20°. In a truck, probably no more than 15°. But depending on the application and...
I am building some Kyosho re-releases and wish to equip them with identical motor/ESCs. I am thinking a ~2500kv motor and a hobbywing 60A ESC.
Like this:
Also, it seems it's cheaper to not choose a combo.
Motor:
ESC:
What do YOU suggest...
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I ordered a Hobbywing XERUN Justock Zero Spec 17.5 combo at Amain Hobbies for $94.99. I should have waited on the Black Friday sale because they marked it down to $80.74!!! :roll: :lol: The motor is rated at 2100kV, so it should be tame in my...
Is there any issues with using copper stranded wires for the ESC and Motor?
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just be careful when resoldering new wire into a speed control, some of them have multi-layered circuit boards which can pose a problem if you dont re-solder all they way through, try to get the heat on and off as quick as possible as surface mount...
