Project "Barn Find"

[utieh]

Hello,

I'm pretty new to the forum, at least this is my first thread.

I recently scored this RC10, that I believe is an Edinger from the mold of the gear cover and the stamp on the chassis.
It's in a great shape, besides a few scratches on the chassis, one hole to accommodate the giant Futaba servo, a cracked steering arm and a hacked rear bulkhead.

I'm planning on first cleaning up everything, removing the rust... maybe replacing the 1 or 2 parts.

Car was sold without a body, I'd love to find a period correct alternative to the stock one.

Electronics: I'll ditch the giant servos and the MSC. I have a Novak T-4 that I recently rebuilt (all new wires, switch delete) and I'll keep the Reedy stock motor sold with this chassis (I need to find a safe way to remove some surface rust without damaging the label). I'm planning on using a modern TX/RX set up but open with suggestions for the servo.

Here are some first photos:

[jwscab]

strip it down to it's pieces. any nylon parts soak in simple green overnight followed by dish soap and a good scrubbing. same process for the tires, although you don't have to soak overnight.

rusty/steel hardware use a phosphoric acid converter, such as Krud Kutter or others.

scrub the aluminum parts with a soft brush and dish soap.

if you need to upgrade to bearings, Avidrc sells em for a buck each and sells kits.

grab a manual online and build back to stock and add your upgraded electronics. Will be a super sweet buggy when finished!

the original box stock body is the protech 1 , definitely remolded and around, though kinda tough to find right now. but do an ebay search to see what you find. it's not protech 2 or 4 (ii or iv).

otherwise sabulatech molds a few early type bodies or look at teambluegroove on ebay or you can run any rc10 body for that matter.

[utieh]

Thanks, I started cleaning the wheels and some other parts first to see which method would work best:
- Oxyclean didn't do much
- Bleach works pretty well but there are still some yellow stains on a few parts.

I only brushed the chassis for now as I wanted to check for any other broken parts.

strip it down to it's pieces. any nylon parts soak in simple green overnight followed by dish soap and a good scrubbing. same process for the tires, although you don't have to soak overnight.

rusty/steel hardware use a phosphoric acid converter, such as Krud Kutter or others.

scrub the aluminum parts with a soft brush and dish soap.

if you need to upgrade to bearings, Avidrc sells em for a buck each and sells kits.

grab a manual online and build back to stock and add your upgraded electronics. Will be a super sweet buggy when finished!

the original box stock body is the protech 1 , definitely remolded and around, though kinda tough to find right now. but do an ebay search to see what you find. it's not protech 2 or 4 (ii or iv).

otherwise sabulatech molds a few early type bodies or look at teambluegroove on ebay or you can run any rc10 body for that matter.

[Bakauata]

Nice. Those parts seem to have cleaned up pretty well. Do you plan on stripping the whole thing down?

[utieh]

The other parts are now soacking in bleach Mixed results so far, so parts still have some yellow/orange stains that won't go off

Nice. Those parts seem to have cleaned up pretty well. Do you plan on stripping the whole thing down?

[jwscab]

The nylon yellows over time and that one definitely looks older, probably stored in the sunlight you can soak in peroxide in the sun for some time to whiten them back up. Kind of a mixed result, sometimes it can be too white or chalk the surface if left too long. If you so this, be sure to soak and rinse really well afterward.

[Bakauata]

Are you familiar with the peroxide method of whitening parts? I think it is the most used, even though there is a risk of making the plastic brittle or flaky

[utieh]

Are you familiar with the peroxide method of whitening parts? I think it is the most used, even though there is a risk of making the plastic brittle or flaky

I was familiar but wanted to try something a bit less harsh, might give it a try next time on certain parts.

[ChisaiKuso]

I love this picture! The car truly does look like a "barn find".

I have so many restored, squeaky clean RC10s sitting on my shelves that I would love to find something like this and actually leave it in its "as found" condition.

[utieh]

It took me a while before I started this project, I loved how it looked with all the fancy dust but could not resist working on it at the end.

I love this picture! The car truly does look like a "barn find".

I have so many restored, squeaky clean RC10s sitting on my shelves that I would love to find something like this and actually leave it in its "as found" condition.

[utieh]

Some progress from the last 2 days.

The motor has an Edinger address on its label, I'm planning on using it.
How do you remove those rust stains without damaging the label? I removed most using WD40 and some thin sand paper.




After all the white parts soaked in bleach for 48 hours, I started the reassembly:




I had to cut down the battery slot in the rear bulkhead, the previous owner did a real hack job to accomodate the MSC




Changed the oil, added Green Slime, they hold most of their oil after 30 years +.







I'm keeping the bushing!











It's now 70% done after I rebuilt the transmission.








I'll start installing the electronics this afternoon minus the motor and RX.

[KidAgain]

Wow that came out beautiful bud great job on the resto.

[utieh]

Wow that came out beautiful bud great job on the resto.

Thanks, it's far from a real restoration, shock bodies and aluminum chassis parts have a lot of scuffs, deep marks sometimes. Some nylon parts still have some yellow stains... I'm happy with the result so far, it's a cheap project, only had to buy some cleaning products, rod ends and steering arms.

[jwscab]

Looks great!!!!

[utieh]

Great news! my soldering iron broke down so I'm stuck here.

I want to install the blue Reedy stock motor (Cadillac) but it'd have to wait till I order a new iron
RX will be non period correct with a Futaba R2004-GF.