First one I ever had... 2019 Turbo Optima re-re build

[Coelacanth]

I just tried a Marwan OT-66 tyre on a re-release Turbo Optima wheel and it fitted well. I didn't use the foam inserts or the inner beadlock band. I'm not sure if you'd need either one as the OT-66's are harder than the re-release kit tyres. FYI, might be an idea to warm the tyre up before fitting it on the wheel.

Edit, the re-release wheels will fit the original Turbo Optima, the hex drive is the same. So fitting original wheels ($$) and tyres to a re-release TO won't be a problem.


Keith

Thanks for that info. I was just assuming the TO wheel hubs were similar to my RC10 hubs, with the cross pins. Good to know the original was also 12mm hex.

The wheel side of the 12mm hex hubs is the same. It's the axle side of the hex hubs that's different; with the original Optimas, Kyosho had hexes with tapered holes on the insides that fit onto the axles, that had matching tapers. More modern cars have straight 5mm axles that have holes drilled for cross-pins, and you need hex hubs with cross-pins to secure those hubs to the axles. The latter is a much better system. No matter which kind of hex hubs are used, the wheels will fit as long as they have 12mm hex on the inside.

[XLR8]

That's a very important fact - you can mix and match wheels but not the hex drives because of the axle diameter and taper fit.
So, 12mm hex drive has become an industry standard for 1/10th scale RC (even modern crawlers and trail trucks use this system). The original Optima was the first car that I'm aware of to use 12mm hex, but was it actually the first RC to use this drive system??

[Coelacanth]

Good question, I have no idea what was the first RC to use 12mm hex hubs. Anyone?

[emerilnut]

I'm sitting here with a blank stare.... and I swear some drool just came out.

[terry.sc]

Tamiyas Wild Willy was the first with the 12mm hex drive 2 years previously, but the wheel fits over both the hex drive and over the wheel bearing as well to locate it, the hex drive was just the inner part of the wheel mount. Tamiya also used a much smaller hex drive in some of their Racing Master 1/12 cars prior to the Optima.

The Optima was the first buggy that used the standard 12mm hex drive that we all recognise. Prior to this most Japanese buggy manufacturers used a serrated friction drive or a drive pin, Tamiya were using the huge disk that located on the nut bosses on the back of their wheels on their buggies. Tamiya started using the 12mm hex with the Avante using splined axles, the hex with cross pin that's almost universally used these days first appeared on the Tamiya Mantra Ray.

[XLR8]

Tamiyas Wild Willy was the first with the 12mm hex drive 2 years previously, but the wheel fits over both the hex drive and over the wheel bearing as well to locate it, the hex drive was just the inner part of the wheel mount. Tamiya also used a much smaller hex drive in some of their Racing Master 1/12 cars prior to the Optima.

The Optima was the first buggy that used the standard 12mm hex drive that we all recognise. Prior to this most Japanese buggy manufacturers used a serrated friction drive or a drive pin, Tamiya were using the huge disk that located on the nut bosses on the back of their wheels on their buggies. Tamiya started using the 12mm hex with the Avante using splined axles, the hex with cross pin that's almost universally used these days first appeared on the Tamiya Mantra Ray.

Thanks Terry,
I've had a look at the vintage Wild Willy instruction manual and correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think one could fit modern wheels to that vehicle if they don't accommodate the carrier bearing.
So, from your response, it appears that credit goes to Tamiya for introducing the 12mm hex and credit goes to Kyosho (with their Optima) for refining the hex drive that eventually offered us the opportunity to fit aftermarket and other manufacturer's wheels. Credit then goes back to Tamiya (with their Mantra Ray) for refining it further by actually pinning the hex drive to the axle making it more reliable.
It's a great history lesson - thanks for responding.

[emerilnut]

DRIVE PIN!!! That's the word I couldn't remember, and that's what my RC10 has.

Thank for the amazing info.

I'm painting the body this weekend. I'll post pics up once I have it done.

[emerilnut]

OK, so the painting story.

Since I knew that I was going to go a darker color for the red sections, I knew that I wouldn't be able to use the decals that came in the kit for the side pods. So I had to come up with some way for me to carve the included masking tape that would allow me to paint the bottom half of the side pods and create that swoop.

Then it dawned on me....

Use the decals to create the swoop!

Then the masking started to look like this....

Once the weekend hit, I was able to get out and paint.

First was 3 coats of Tamiya Translucent Red. PS-37.

[emerilnut]

Behind that was 2 coats of Tamiya Bright Silver. PS-41. It was after this where the color really started to pop. (and I can't believe I actually just used that cliche).

After the silver, I followed it with one thick layer of Black. PS-5.

Then I pulled the masking tape, and painted the white. I couldn't avoid a couple of blemishes here.... I didn't have tape perfect in the back of the body, AND I actually dropped it on the lawn paint-side down.

Here's the white.... And thoughts of Starsky and Hutch start to come to mind.

My original plan was to then recarve a VERY thin line of the masking tape to create that fine black line in the original box art, but I decided that there was no way my hand was steady enough to keep it straight. So I decided to forego the black border line.

And then here's the finished paint job after peeling the protective film.

[emerilnut]

And then here are the final final pics after applying all the decals.

Funny, the instruction manual actually contains a guide on where to place everything to match the box art, BUT they actually miss a couple of them.... so keep a keen eye if you want to match the box art.

I'm sad to report that I didn't get the rear of the side pods perfect. BUT, I was as careful as I could be. There were about 3 different pieces of masking tape that joined at that spot, and it was hard to keep up with the layers.

This yellow on the bumper is the wrong decal, but the correct decal on the box is not anywhere to be found on the decal sheet.

And here are some inside under my desk lights. Does the red seem darker?

All in all. I think it came out pretty nice. I have to admit that I'm love with that red color.

[XLR8]

Me too, that red is awesome! It reminds me of the Lola slot car body I had when I was a kid back in the 60's.
Anyway, the finished car looks great. Every car has a few flaws and the few yours has are insignificant relative to the completed car. ... so I wouldn't worry about it. It looks fantastic and I think you were wise to go with that color.
So, any plans to build another one - an Ultima perhaps??

[emerilnut]

Thanks so much for the compliments.

Hmmmm. My next build? No idea yet. I'm not sure I have the same motivation for the Ultima. This TO was something I was really jazzed about when I first heard about the re-relase. I didn't get the same tingling in my trousers when I heard about the Ultima.

[Coelacanth]

That paint job turned out very nice. Maybe the darker red makes the Kyosho gold num-nums stand out a bit more, which is a good thing!

[matt1ptkn]

Its funny how we can turn mole hills into mountains on our own work, but chances are, no one else would ever notice. Looks great! Better than 98% of my paint jobs.

[Dadio]

Very cool !