RC10T Team build from parts bin

[ChisaiKuso]

We cleaned the metal parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cups are shown here as we found them.
Then the universals and turnbuckles were polished.
And finally the turnbuckles and universals were made black again using cold blueing technique. The cups were cleaned too, and while we were at it, the hubs that don't have a hole in them were cleaned as well.

Nicely done...

[cobalta70]

Nicely done...

Thanks, it's fun bringing things back to their former glory.

[cobalta70]

This afternoon we got started on the front end. I don't have a good before picture, but the spindles and pins were all put in the lathe and given a good polish with some fine sandpaper. I think they turned out pretty good:

And here is as far as we got:

[cobalta70]

Question - did Associated change the length of the 6223 king pins at some point? I have some that I think go with the newer style front ends (that use a set screw in the spindle) that seem to be a couple of millimeters too long. I remember the ones on the original cars being just the right length. Did they change them at some point, or are these simply not the right ones?

[Lonestar]

This morning we got the links built. Probably my least favorite part of the build.

links_complete.jpg

I think the turnbuckles is the one part we ALL hate

This is turning out superbly, keep it up!

Can I ask you which exact ultrasonic cleaner and sand ("light"?) blasting gear you are using, assuming this is not industrial-grade stuff? I actually need to get equipped on that front too... yours seem to be serving you well

Thanks!

[cobalta70]

This is turning out superbly, keep it up!

Thanks, we made some more progress on it last night. I will get more pictures up today.

Can I ask you which exact ultrasonic cleaner and sand ("light"?) blasting gear you are using, assuming this is not industrial-grade stuff? I actually need to get equipped on that front too... yours seem to be serving you well

The equipment I have is definitely not industrial-grade. In fact far from it, but it gets the job done.

The ultrasonic cleaner is a model 95563 from Harbor Freight. I got it at one of their tent sales so it was super cheap. If I did it again I would probably spend a bit more money for something a bit better. It certainly gets the job done, but you have to help it along a bit by agitating the parts with a brush. I imagine you wouldn't need to do that with a better one.

The mini sandblaster I have is a Chinese knock-off of the Paasche model AEC-K Air Eraser. It's basically an airbrush that spays very fine sand instead of paint. It works well for things like small rc car parts, but I wouldn't bother using it on anything larger as it would take forever.

I just realized how affordable the real Paasche is, so I'm not sure it's worth getting a Chinese knock-off. It seems Paasche has a larger model as well.

Harbor Freight does sell one for less than half of the price of the Paasche. Although, I think I might have got mine from Hobby King.

[Lonestar]

This is turning out superbly, keep it up!

Thanks, we made some more progress on it last night. I will get more pictures up today.

Can I ask you which exact ultrasonic cleaner and sand ("light"?) blasting gear you are using, assuming this is not industrial-grade stuff? I actually need to get equipped on that front too... yours seem to be serving you well

The equipment I have is definitely not industrial-grade. In fact far from it, but it gets the job done.

The ultrasonic cleaner is a model 95563 from Harbor Freight. I got it at one of their tent sales so it was super cheap. If I did it again I would probably spend a bit more money for something a bit better. It certainly gets the job done, but you have to help it along a bit by agitating the parts with a brush. I imagine you wouldn't need to do that with a better one.

The mini sandblaster I have is a Chinese knock-off of the Paasche model AEC-K Air Eraser. It's basically an airbrush that spays very fine sand instead of paint. It works well for things like small rc car parts, but I wouldn't bother using it on anything larger as it would take forever.

I just realized how affordable the real Paasche is, so I'm not sure it's worth getting a Chinese knock-off. It seems Paasche has a larger model as well.

Harbor Freight does sell one for less than half of the price of the Paasche. Although, I think I might have got mine from Hobby King.

Thank you for taking the time! We don't have HF here in Europe (or almost, haha) but I will look up something! Thanks

[aakoskin]

Question - did Associated change the length of the 6223 king pins at some point? I have some that I think go with the newer style front ends (that use a set screw in the spindle) that seem to be a couple of millimeters too long. I remember the ones on the original cars being just the right length. Did they change them at some point, or are these simply not the right ones?

I think they are overlong because originally nylon washers were used at both ends before the e-clip. Later instructions/kits omit these so the pin appears slightly too long.

[cobalta70]

I think they are overlong because originally nylon washers were used at both ends before the e-clip. Later instructions/kits omit these so the pin appears slightly too long.
6223.jpg

Thanks for the info, that certainly would explain it.

[cobalta70]

We didn't get too much work done on this today as we had to make some emergency repairs to my son's Rustler instead. However, we did get a bit farther along on the front end:

[cobalta70]

Today we got the bellcranks all cleaned up and ready to install on the chassis. The hardest part was finding two decent white nylon 4-40 nuts.

It seems that we are nearing the point were I need to break down and open the NIP b stamp chassis that I have been hoarding for all these years.

[cobalta70]

Last night we got the front end mounted to the chassis. Other than shocks, I think we just need to add a bumper and body mounts before we move onto the back end.

And yes, it bugs me that the inside corners of the arms are ground off. Somethings you cannot fix...

[cobalta70]

Today I noticed that the manual that we have been using calls for two 4-40 x 1/4" button head screws to hold the front body mounts to the mount brace. I have three sets of these mounts and braces in my parts bin, and all of them have 4-40 x 1/2 button head screws holding the mounts to the brace.

Either I am reading it wrong, or the 1/4" is a mistake. A screw that short would barely make it through the brace let alone hold the mounts.

Interestingly enough, the 1/2" screws are almost too long as they seem to bottom out in the bore of the mounts. It seems 3/8" screws would be perfect.

Here is a picture from the manual:

manual1.png (120.59 KiB) Viewed 1709 times

manual1.png (120.59 KiB) Viewed 1709 times

[Lavigna]

The manuals are prone to mistakes and inconsistencies. Use what works best/you have access to.

Really clean looking build. I am very impressed. Great work.

[Mark Westerfield]

There are different manuals for the different trucks. They call for different stuff, lol.