[quote=duckhead post_id=516973 time=1608243566 user_id=10616]
Looks good, I like the use of the B6 series radio gear plate, such a simple thing but makes tear down so much nicer
I can't read the logo, what stand offs are those that you are using to hold down the battery?
[/quote]
The B6 radio gear plate is also a 56gr weight. Battery stand offs are from Revolution Design, originally made for the Yokomo YZ2 I believe. They use metric screws but have the advantage of not having to drill and countersink new holes.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Come and visit the stable
Asso_man! wrote: ↑Thu Dec 17, 2020 9:31 am
I also wanted to flip the shorty servo and free some space in front of the battery to mount weights, receiver and ESC.
The steering design from Niki is brilliant for this and available from Shapeways.
The only mod I will bring to it is cutting the side ears and fabricate a steering rack for a better Ackerman.
I will also swap the 30 degrees front hubs for 25 degrees ones.
All ball studs, ball ends, pins, turnbuckles and upper shock mounts are titanium and made by Lunsford.
Nice build!
What slipper set up are you using on the stealth?
I'm tinkering with the Ackermann as well.
The first rack I did, I just copied the Ackermann offset from the "worlds bell crank". I was mainly focusing on the bump steer.
I'll guess once driving the thing there will be tweeking of all kinds of parameters eventually.
Thanks mate! Slipper unit is a Triad Evo Slipper Clutch from Avid. Made for the B6 or Losi 22 but with some tinkering it seems to work on the B4 shaft. Will have to see on the long run as there is a tiny play between the shaft and the slipper fixed rings.
I will copy a rack from A&L using the inner mounting holes for the steering links.
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Come and visit the stable
Ok so all parts and more for future projects took a good dye bath. AE parts take the dye quickly, it was not the case with the 3D printed parts: they took almost eight hours to get to a gun metal/deep blue/blackish colour. They are still wet on the below picture.
Attachments
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Come and visit the stable
Getting closer and closer to a roller! Still waiting for the 870c universals to get there.
I fabricated a stab bar with random parts for the rear.
Next up are rebuilding a Stealth and filling shocks.
Attachments
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Come and visit the stable
Sadly I bought the wrong Yokomo universal driveshafts. These are rear zc-421 and I need zc-422 which are about 5mm longer. If anyone wants to swap a pair of new zc-421 for a pair of new zc-422, I would be all over it.
Attachments
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Come and visit the stable
Quick update here as this beast is now almost ready to turn some laps next spring. I recently offered a runner to my younger son and we plan to have fun at a track nearby that recently opened. I’ll make sure to post some videos here afterwards.
I’m really happy with overall result and the car seems running fine in the living room lol. I would just love to find an alternative for the rear Yokomo ZC-422 that measure 73,5mm pin to pin. I know AE has 74mm driveshafts for the B74, but I am not sure how they measure them and they would probably need some massaging around the bone ends as modern universals are thicker. Maybe Kyosho or Losi have alternatives that could work?
Paint by the master A. Bond, aka VintageAE!
Here is a list of what is in there:
- Lunsford ti axles, ball studs, ball ends and turnbuckles
- Front shocks: 1.6 piston, 21mm shafts with 27mm Kashima Fox bodies, 37.5 oil, orange springs
- Rear shocks: 1.7 piston, 27mm shafts with 36mm Kashima Fox bodies, 32 oil, blue springs
- 3D printed arms all around (3DRC on Shapeways)
- 3D printed 0 degree rear hubs to accept Yokomo universals/bearings
- 3D printed bell cranks from NixConcept (Shapeways)
- 180 degrees flipped rear shock tower to align the big bore shocks to the rear arms
- home made composite rear tranny brace
- home made rear sway bar
- home made battery holder made from Pure Tech battery holders, Andy’s battery holder, Traxxas clip standoffs and Revolution Design posts
- home made front Kydex bumper
- Yokomo wheel adapters all around
- Rusti Design front and rear shock towers made for big bore shocks
- B6 wing mounts
- JCRacing wheels and wing
- 25 degrees front c-hubs
- ceramic diff balls
- Triad slipper on B4 top shaft
- RPM rere gear cover
- Yokomo 870-C lexan undertray
- decals from Ultrahive
Attachments
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
Come and visit the stable
Apologies that this has likely been asked before but i caanot fidn teh info in search function.
How much longer are long Andy's Arms ( F & R) than stock please?
Thanks
Paul
Last post
the pro race arms are the same length as the rpm worlds/klein arms. so whatever that is......not in the dungeon right now to measure. :wink:
Hello, could someone tell me if the RC10 Graphite came with the short or long front arms?? I've looked at pictures and it confused me even more. The reason i aske is that i recently acquired a graphite chassis and would like to piece together my own...
Last post
There was a sort of plated version that flaked off, olive drab, then the powder coated ones you have.
With the trans brace you have, a 6 hole front tower would probably be best. Early stealth trans cars had a 6 gear brace with 2 new holes added for...
Let's say hypothetically(spelling please) i was able to land an RC10 Graphite, and wanted to convert it into a Truck, what kind of CVDs can I use when I install rear RC10t arms??
Is it at all possible to do this conversion??
Has anyone on here...
Last post
Ok so I'm scrapping this Idea, cause there's no way I'm gonna cut off a graphite chassis, for one, and I'm not going to be running a retarted looking truck with way too wide front suspension :roll:
Lately I've been driving Niki-built NIX10M and like it a lot. Now as they are closing the indoor tracks for summer I need another car for outdoor tracks. So I finally begun working on my summer car to be, which is RC10 Graphite team car. The car was...
Last post
I made chassis protector out of 0.5mm lexan sheet. If that does not work I will have to find a way to get Mattox one as thy don't ship internationally anymore.
With a lot of research on here and help from some awesome members, I've finally brought my RC10 Graphite back from the dusty basement. I got into RC's way back in the mid 80's and my first real rc was a Futaba FX-10. My Dad (he funded and...
Last post
Great Looking Car, i like the Custom Bracket for the speed controller, the graphites are a little cramped for space and this fixes the problem nicely
Thanks, my Dad worked at a plastics manufacturing plant. The bracket was his addition made out...