USAPaulo wrote: ↑Sun Dec 12, 2021 8:25 pm
That looks fantastic, very retro! You have some serious painting skills
The wing looks cool as it is but if you're going to paint it I think that gold stripe across the back has two continue across the wing too?
Paul
Thanks Paul
Yep, retro just like me.
I like the paint as well but there are unfortunately a couple of flaws
If the wing gets gold, and it may well happen, I'll need to try and mix a new batch of gold It's actually more like copper. I mixed at least 5 different colors for that shade.
The gold color was an attempt to try and come close to the shock color and it ain't bad but again not perfect.
jwscab wrote: ↑Mon Dec 13, 2021 5:37 pm
thanks for the pictures of the arrow body. I have a chassis that needs the arrow body so its on my shopping list.
jwscab
I do like the form of the body as well as the fit. Reminds me a little bit of my JRX Pro.
Had no thin spots and the price was reasonable considering what some companies are getting for bodies
If you get one I'd be interested to know how the finish is, lots of dust and minor particles between the mold and body on mine. But for $15 + ship no complaints...
It's a great looking runner and shelfer just maybe not a concours finish.
But then again I am fairly picky....
Always found it challenging to cleanly route wires on a chassis.
At least in this case, an existing screw hole could be used.
The piece is a sway bar mount.
radioactivity wrote: ↑Mon Dec 13, 2021 9:03 pm
Thanks Paul
Yep, retro just like me.
I like the paint as well but there are unfortunately a couple of flaws
If the wing gets gold, and it may well happen, I'll need to try and mix a new batch of gold It's actually more like copper. I mixed at least 5 different colors for that shade.
The gold color was an attempt to try and come close to the shock color and it ain't bad but again not perfect.
Chuck
I think we're all a bit retro!!!
I like the sound of that, it's certainly a lot more involved than just picking a can of Tamiya PS off the rack!! In the pictures on my laptop the colours look fairly spot on but I appreciate there may be differences in what you're seeing
I added a couple of smallish decals and painted the wing.
Sanyo and Novak are vintage.
Still trying to keep the overall car relatively simple and straight forward.
Right click, open link in new tab... hit the magnifying glass(+) for a larger view
Got a little more done....
Tried to ano and dye wing tubes black... failed
I will probably just polish and be done.
got to me finally finish them. Just can't seem to let well enough alone.
I was anodizing a couple of other parts and decided to try again. This time to try and come close to the blue accent color on the body.
Fairly well pleased and very shiny. Being able to spin these in a dremel really helps sanding and polishing.
Doesn't add much with the body on but just a little...
The hunt is on for dark blue anodized 4-40 lock nuts...
I watch Andy's eBay listings but only see the painted bodies getting listed. I wasn't sure if there was a different retail source with a set price. Wishful thinking.
Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet
"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"
Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed Aug 10, 2022 2:16 pm
I watch Andy's eBay listings but only see the painted bodies getting listed. I wasn't sure if there was a different retail source with a set price. Wishful thinking.
He had some clear Pro Arrow and Renegade bodies listed a while back.
Maybe another member will give you his contact information.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
It has been some years since I have posted. I sold most of my cars and custom builds some years ago.....of course I regret selling some of it. Only stuff I have left is in my signature.
I joined Facebook only because it seems like many people moved...
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I added a note to the first page.
I switched to CW rear hubs and B44 CVD's.
The bones were too long at 67mm.
I will get to the electronics on this soon.
I'm super curious - how does the graphite tub chassis perform on the track? Have you or...
My usual pusher, oh oops I mean friend who frequents the local flea markets and craigslist ads brought a nice haul to work the other day.
He is not an RC guy, so I offered as usual to clean up / rebuild (and thoroughly inspect of course) the...
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Well i bit the bullet this morning my chassis had a flakig spot on the kickup small but bitherd me non the less i was gona super glue it and clamp it and make a bumper for is so it wouldnt get worse and i lost my clamp so this morn i got out an old...
This project started when I received a darn nice graphite chassis except for the fact that the front of the chassis had been cut on the ends of the nose. So much that only half of the outer holes for the a-arm mounts were there :evil: So i dug into...
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Very nice, ballsy to run those arms though-
I do have a set of the dynotech arms, I may change them. The arms are actually not as nice as they appear in the pictures. Someone took a dremel to the shock area for clearance :evil:
well Durafix and aluminum rod were a huge epic failure. stuff just didnt flow and didnt stick well.. i tryed a aluminum braze rod with flux also and that was a failure too, i knew when the welding supply place said i needed a oxy-acetylene torch to...
I'm considering fitting hard coated shocks to my RC10 graphite build - the ones which have grey bodies but what looks like black anodized shock caps. Do you guys usually use this kit for these purposes? , or are there others which are more truly...
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The correct ones are like these, the darker grey shocks were old stock--they got lighter anno
as time went on, you would need the .71 kit for the front, and the 1.32 for the rear with black
alum caps to be just right, and try to find the white...
It's actually more like copper. I mixed at least 5 different colors for that shade.
Bing [Bot], 
