RC10 - A Stamp Rebuild - Chipped Idler Gear

[GreenBar0n]

Soaking these parts in the jewelry cleaner.


Does anyone know how to get that metal gear off, without damaging anything. It's on there good.

[GreenBar0n]

The outdrives are in really good condition, I used a magnifier and looked for burs, couldn't find any previous wear.

Bearings in and ready to go.


Going to figure a way to get that metal gear off, so I can add the last bearing to the case.

[GreenBar0n]

Tiny lip inside the gear.


M5 screw fits inside the gear, but contacts the metal sleeve attached to the bearing.


Pinion puller came in handy again.


Gear removed.


Time to put it all back together. Will read the old RC10 manual to see if anything is different than the 40th assembly manual.

[radioactivity]

Now that it is apart it's a great time to get those nasty burrs off the gears

Chuck

[GreenBar0n]

Now that it is apart it's a great time to get those nasty burrs off the gears

Chuck

I was looking with a magnifier, and using my fingernail, and I would swear the outdrives are nearly new, there is no wear or damage, can't find any burs. I'll go back over them again to make sure. Thanks!



Noticed that the 40th 6-gear assembly, instructs one to use black grease on the thrust washer, and silicone on the plastic diff gear and diff tube.

The Edinger manual doesn't use black grease or silicone.


I'm going to read the Jim Halsey manual again.

[GreenBar0n]

I understand the bur concept now, in as far as the edges of the gear tooth faces. A brand new outdrive has sharper burs than a worn in one.


Going to try 240 grit disc on the Dremel, to try to brake the edges.


If 240 isn't gritty enough, I'll get a cut off wheel and see what that does.

[GreenBar0n]

Left outdrive is stock, or before, the mounted one is after.




Have only done one outdrive so far, but what an incredible improvement, did not expect the mesh to feel perfect from doing this. This is the third 6-gear transmission I've assembled in the last three days, did (2) 40th's yesterday, and this outdrive de-burring made this the smoothest of all of them, by far. I intend to drive this one, the others will be shelved.

Now I'm thinking I want to do every last mod in that Jim Halsey guide. Wonder if the Bud's diff rings are available still, for the locked ring mod.

[GreenBar0n]

Both metal gears de-burred. Went easy, not too extreme; the results are definitely measurable.




Made an offer on: BRP / Bud's Racing Products #2110 Pinned Diff Drive Ring Kit NIB, for doing the ring lock mod in the Jim Halsey guide.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295725091352

Was going to say if they take my $4 offer, I'm doing the mod, and then the email just came in - a pair of these are on the way. I'll do the other steps while I wait for them.


And big thanks to @radioactivity for looking out for my new idler gears, by recommending the de-burring of the metal gears. It took me a while to get it, but I completely understand now, thanks again!

[RogueIV]

I've never read the manual for the early RC10, I do have it in PDF, just didn't know that was in there. It's a great idea, and seeing as I'm going to be rebuilding a lot of shocks in the near future, I want to do this to all of them. Much thanks for letting me know this is how it was done!

Funny part is they didn't add that part of the instructions to the 40th manual and only show 2 small spacers on the shaft, no surprise if you run the car that way the axles hit the arms which led me to look up the old instructions.

[GreenBar0n]

Funny part is they didn't add that part of the instructions to the 40th manual and only show 2 small spacers on the shaft, no surprise if you run the car that way the axles hit the arms which led me to look up the old instructions.

There are a couple big differences in the manual between Edinger and 40th, the no black grease on the thrust washer, and the 40th has the plastic diff pinion that requires silicone between the pinion and the diff tube.

The original 6-gear has a metal diff pinion, and is just tapped on the diff tube with no lube, I wasn't expecting that.

[XLR8]

Funny part is they didn't add that part of the instructions to the 40th manual and only show 2 small spacers on the shaft, no surprise if you run the car that way the axles hit the arms which led me to look up the old instructions.

There are a couple big differences in the manual between Edinger and 40th, the no black grease on the thrust washer, and the 40th has the plastic diff pinion that requires silicone between the pinion and the diff tube.

The original 6-gear has a metal diff pinion, and is just tapped on the diff tube with no lube, I wasn't expecting that.

It was odd to see where silicone was applied but my 40th included nylon idlers and spur - all remaining gears were metal.

[RogueIV]

Funny part is they didn't add that part of the instructions to the 40th manual and only show 2 small spacers on the shaft, no surprise if you run the car that way the axles hit the arms which led me to look up the old instructions.

There are a couple big differences in the manual between Edinger and 40th, the no black grease on the thrust washer, and the 40th has the plastic diff pinion that requires silicone between the pinion and the diff tube.

The original 6-gear has a metal diff pinion, and is just tapped on the diff tube with no lube, I wasn't expecting that.

It was odd to see where silicone was applied but my 40th included nylon idlers and spur - all remaining gears were metal.

On a positive note the manufacturing process on the metal gears is a lot better on the new cars, or at least the one I built recently. I didn't need to deburr the gears and my transmission spins quite freely.

[GreenBar0n]

On a positive note the manufacturing process on the metal gears is a lot better on the new cars, or at least the one I built recently. I didn't need to deburr the gears and my transmission spins quite freely.

With the full bearing kit in (2) 40th transmissions, I can't get the completed transmissions to spin freely for even 1 second, when spinning the spur gear.

The Jim Halsey guide says the entire 6-gear assembly should spin freely for 15 seconds after doing the steps in the guide.


Will test this out soon.

[radioactivity]

There are a few reasons that any well built trans will not spin for the purported 15 seconds.

Friction from the felt seals
And more notably the grease in the bearings.
Also excessive side play in both the idlers and out drives that can cause the gears to wobble.
With the felt seals removed and all of the grease removed from the bearings, only lightly oiled, a trans may spin for maybe, maybe 15 seconds.
When spun with compressed air at a very high rpm it is more likely to spin for 15 seconds or longer. BTW it doesn't appear as though any mention of how the trans was spun.

I have built many 6 gear transmissions with no thought to time spent.
I have spent hours meticulously deburring, sanding, polishing, aligning, spacing, critically reducing excess tolerance, degreasing , lightly oiling, breaking in and readjusting.
I have never had a trans spin for 15 seconds by merely spinning by hand. Yet they regularly run as quiet as a belt driven trans, nearly silent. Zero notchy feel, zero excessive friction and a very very smooth feel.

Just my 2 cents

Chuck

[GoMachV]

In 2013 I built up a completely stock rere trans and didn't touch the gears. This was assembled with the stock bushings not bearings. When under load bushings are far less efficient but as far as the spin test went, it was miles ahead of the original 6 gears.

for some reason the link isnt working, here is the external link
https://youtu.be/IeBWoZ-ruw8?si=3k6SKaTWYL2Bp_Rf