My first RC10T. But, what is it?

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XLR8
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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

GoMachV wrote: Mon May 20, 2024 3:14 am Shouldn't see much, but different caster blocks do vary the amount or need for washers under the ball studs. As a rule of thumb, try to get the steering rods parallel with the suspension arms and you should see little to no bump steer
Ah, I think you've hit the nail on the head.
I couldn't find the original castor blocks for this truck (probably used them in another build) so I pulled a set from my new parts box assuming they were 30 degree. After reading your comment, I checked and the manual calls for #6213 so I Googled and discovered those are actually 15 degree.
I bet that solves the problem.
thanks Jeff!
Doug

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

Well, best I can do is 25 degree castor blocks with some shims under the ball stud to bring the links parallel - or closer to it. This setup will be placeholders until I can source the proper ones. I want to keep the project moving forward.
Built the shocks today so the chassis is nearly finished. Tires are mounted. Body arrived last Friday and paint should arrive Wednesday. Paint work will take some time - red, white, blue, silver, black shading -- lots of masking.
I'd like to be ripping up the dirt by months end. :D
Doug

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

So the replacement arms have arrived from Factory Works. Thanks again Jeff.

Notice the difference (original arm is on the right).
The new arm lacks a stringer at the wheel end. I'm guessing the replacement arm is a later design?
P1010014.JPG
With this design, perhaps some torsional rigidity is sacrificed but the droop problem is solved.
Of the two, I prefer the new design; droop is more important than torsional flex.
Doug

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

Looking at the 10T manual and noticed the servo is fixed with tape not blocks. It seems very odd that it isn't screwed to the chassis like the buggy - especially considering the added resistance from the truck's larger wheels. :?
Anyway, it's always been my experience that even the best servo tape will still allow for some movement under a load.

Looking at the 10T re-re's photos, servo blocks are provided so maybe AE has reconsidered their earlier approach to attaching the servo.
Doug

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by 1911Colt »

My original 10T bitd had normal servo mounts*.

* I am old and often remember things that never happened. Pretty sure on this one, though.

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by GoMachV »

the 10T for some unknown reason had the servo mounted to the opposite side of the chassis which meant there were no servo holes. I think the sport truck still came with servo mounts as the MSC used them. Not sure why they didnt use the holes and flip the bellcrank

I hadnt noticed those arms, interesting. Ill have to dig through my others and see if I have variants.
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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by Frankentruck »

A few of the versions from T to T4, and GT:
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Frankensteined RC10T3 / Franky Jr RC10GT-e (x2) / A+ stamp / Toy Story RC / Graphite replica / B1.5 BFG 5LTi / Clonewald / Hyper Hornet

"I love the effort, but it sure looks like you took the long way around to a tub again"

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

The chassis is finished so thought I'd post an update.
P1010001.JPG
P1010005.JPG
The tub has spent some time as a buggy so a quick coat of matte black hides the scratches.
P1010010.JPG
I've had a couple new sets of these threaded shock bodies for a while and this seems like a good project to use a set.
P1010003.JPG
Having never before owned or even driven a 10T, I don't want to drop-in a high HP brushless system until I've spent some time learning and dialing-in the truck.
So, I'll start with this brushed Reedy Radon which I think is 15 or 17 turn. Stealth cases are new. New stainless fasteners throughout.
P1010008.JPG
That's it for now -- more to follow. :D
Doug

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

I've installed the electronics this afternoon so it's a runner now.
Reedy 1523MG, Dynamite branded HW 1060, and a Corona Futaba compatible Rx.
P1010016.JPG
I have the body cut and fitted so I just need to mask and apply paint. Still waiting for decal sheet from MCI.
The front tires are original 10T #7870's and they have a heavy spot. I've spun them on the wheel 180 degrees and results are the same so it's the tire. Was it common bitd to balance them?
Doug

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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by klavy69 »

XLR8 wrote: Sun May 26, 2024 12:09 am
The front tires are original 10T #7870's and they have a heavy spot. I've spun them on the wheel 180 degrees and results are the same so it's the tire. Was it common bitd to balance them?
Not sure how common it was but a friend of mine balanced a set of tires of mine and it was night and day difference for consistancy. Not sure about how it would do on offroad since we ran a banked oval back then but a very heavy spot on my gt tires and I thought it was fine...until I ran the balanced ones.

Todd
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Re: My first RC10T. But, what is it?

Post by XLR8 »

klavy69 wrote: Sat Jun 01, 2024 3:10 am
XLR8 wrote: Sun May 26, 2024 12:09 am
The front tires are original 10T #7870's and they have a heavy spot. I've spun them on the wheel 180 degrees and results are the same so it's the tire. Was it common bitd to balance them?
Not sure how common it was but a friend of mine balanced a set of tires of mine and it was night and day difference for consistancy. Not sure about how it would do on offroad since we ran a banked oval back then but a very heavy spot on my gt tires and I thought it was fine...until I ran the balanced ones.

Todd
Thanks Todd. I haven't yet ran the truck but just spinning the wheels on the stand the fronts are really bad so I'll try to balance them.
Doug

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