Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
- scr8p
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
the newer associated trucks still use 1.32 on the rear. just buy them.
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
convincing argument. Thanks! I ordered them.scr8p wrote:the newer associated trucks still use 1.32 on the rear. just buy them.
- Coelacanth
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
Is there a blue aluminum Associated shock with centerhole-to-centerhole length of 70mm approximately (~2.75 inches)?
Another question: Are the blue aluminum shocks found on the SC10 any good? After reading this thread, I'm not so sure...I never would've thought AE would produce a crappy shock design.
Another question: Are the blue aluminum shocks found on the SC10 any good? After reading this thread, I'm not so sure...I never would've thought AE would produce a crappy shock design.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
The B4 front shocks are close to 70mm, maybe a little longer, and the shocks from the RTR are blue anodized. They are about 3/16" longer than the shocks from the Team Car/Worlds Car.Coelacanth wrote:Is there a blue aluminum Associated shock with centerhole-to-centerhole length of 70mm approximately (~2.75 inches)?
Another question: Are the blue aluminum shocks found on the SC10 any good? After reading this thread, I'm not so sure...I never would've thought AE would produce a crappy shock design.
The shocks from the SC10 are the same design as the all the shocks on cars and trucks for the last 20 years. They are fine, some people hate them, a lot of people like them, and Associated hasn't had enough problems to update them besides threaded bodies and now the bleeder caps, so they work. Unless you are a really serious racer, or just don't mind spending money, I don't think you need to replace them.
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
I have never had a problem with any of my AE shocks. I even had an 18 year old shelved rc10ce project that I stripped down last year and shocks ( all four ) were still full of oil and consistant. I think it has to do with how well built they are and how they are cared for. Just my opinion
- minichamps11
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
I agree with Doug - since Associated stuff started production in China, the B4 shocks have got worse. I'm not talking about anything earlier than 2008 here. After that date, serious racers (I'm not talking collectors or bashers here but people who use their buggies hard) have had no end of problems caused by poor quality shocks. Favourite trick is to blow the shock seals out on a hard landing, dumping all your oil on the track in the middle of a race. The new B4.1 seems to have fixed all these issues however.
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- mrhemi1971
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
I can throw my .02 in, And say in the 27 years I have been racing, I've only had 2 failures with associated shocks. On my original gold pan, I had a snap ring that didn't seat all the way due to the seat not being machined deep enough, and I had a square retainer split in half and the shock collapsed, THATS IT! I have even tried using Kyosho, Tamiya, and Xray shocks(did like them, but not worth buying stock), and yet I run Associated shocks all the time. I am a self admitted nut, I overbuild all my cars and maintain surgical cleanliness, I blueprint every part.
I must have had divine luck with my shocks, because I love them, and don't feel the need to buy others, they work, and work well if you build them right. If there were ANYTHING to gripe about on the shocks, it would be pistons. I did learn to machine and tune my own to my racing tastes..
I must have had divine luck with my shocks, because I love them, and don't feel the need to buy others, they work, and work well if you build them right. If there were ANYTHING to gripe about on the shocks, it would be pistons. I did learn to machine and tune my own to my racing tastes..
ASSOCIATED OR NOTHING!!
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
what size were the shocks that came with a 90's championship edition? I lost my micrometer (don't ask, I'm sure alcohol was not a factor.....) Looking for front and rear dimensions....
Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
i'm not saying ae's shocks are the best, but i've never had a leaker and they work fine for me.
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
ever see that size in FT blue? Because I'm lookinf for 2 .71 shock bodies in the blue.....shane wrote:.71 fronts and 1.32 rear
- JK Racing
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
I think the .71 was only on the CE & Worlds, did the B2/B3 go to the .89 shock bodies? I dont think they make a .71 in blue.
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Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- jwscab
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
yeah, I don't think associated ever made the .71" body in blue. I believe there was an aftermarket company that reanodized shocks and chassis', but don't know any more than that.
you can get the b4 blue shocks that are .89" and use a taller tower.
if you are really ambitious, you could set up your own anodizing process since shock bodies/chassis are pretty small and don't require huge tanks and power supplies.
then you can make money anodizing everyone's shocks and chassis'
you can get the b4 blue shocks that are .89" and use a taller tower.
if you are really ambitious, you could set up your own anodizing process since shock bodies/chassis are pretty small and don't require huge tanks and power supplies.
then you can make money anodizing everyone's shocks and chassis'
- Toasted Coastie
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Re: Difference between RC10 original, B2, B3, B4 shocks.....
hahahahahaha, going an alternate route now.....
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