Yokomo YZ-10 870c Square hub to standard Hex hub conversion

[scr8p]

it all kyosho stuff. i don't know any of the part numbers or anything like that, since i got 2.2's on my 870c using all yoke parts.

[Toasted Coastie]

it all kyosho stuff. i don't know any of the part numbers or anything like that, since i got 2.2's on my 870c using all yoke parts.

Cool.

[tamiyadan]

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[jwscab]

heck, if the hub fits on the wheel so nice, just need to drill another set of holesin the wheel in between a set of holes there as your picture shows, and you are good to go! you don't really need anything else.

[tamiyadan]

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[Toasted Coastie]

Just being me:

Why not take the hubs off the mx4 and use them on the YZ10? I think it might be a stupid question, but humor me....

[tamiyadan]

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[Toasted Coastie]

awesome. Thanks for the ideas!

[tamiyadan]

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[Mr. ED]

One thing you guys seem to over-look is the lesser offset of most modern 2.2 rims like the MX-4 rims, 2.2 later yokomo rims and 2.2 kyosho wheels.
When your conversion only uses an adapter, the car will get much narrower in the rear (which will look odd with the wide front set-up).

I've already got 2 working solutions for the rear: one using universal-joints from the academy griffin, and another using kyosho CVD's.
I'll try to put up part numbers for both later.
What's different in my set-up is; I'm taking out the original metal-cast up-rights and replace them with plastic versions that reach further out and thus compensate the smaller offset in the wheels. The plastic hubs I'm using are the only 'mystery' items in the solution sofar: I think they are Tamiya M-chassis parts. Maybe someone can confirm this when I have the pics to put inhere. The bearings they require are the typical shoulderless 11X5mm bearings, as used in most Tamiya kits.

[tamiyadan]

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[Mr. ED]

Indeed the 870C has thick square hubs and deep offset wheels in the rear. When you replace them with hexes and new wheels, the rear end will narrow down almost 20mm in total. I don't have the old 2.0 wheels for this car, so that's an estimated figure based on what I had to add to reach about 250mm.
The rear-end combo I made with the wider tamiya axle carriers, academy U-J's kyosho lazer ZX-5 wheels and schumacher mini-pin tries resulted in a width just under 250mm= the legal limit.
I have also made a front-end combo for which I used Kyoso CVD's, 2 shock O-rings, and again ZX-5 front wheels (not ZX-5SP); with neutral toe-in the width is abut 240mm. It also works with Ultima RB5 front wheels if you prefer just an itsy bitsy narrower front. The arms used are the original front arms= 5mm shorter from pin-to pin than the rear arms. Looking at Toast'ies picture that's what he has up front.
(contrary to tamiyadans explanation I only find the option for 2 mount locations on the front arms, my rears only have one location for the axle carrier. On toast'ies car the inner position is used for the front C-carrier)

[scr8p]

don't forget the YZ-10 front and rear arms are adjustable you can move the axle carriers into 2 different positions and gain about 2-3mm a side.

i don't know about a yz-10, but the 870c has only one outer hinge pin hole on the rear.

[Mr. ED]

ok, I just checked the manuals at kyosho usa's website and what I appear to have used for the front is LA257 (73mm) which is used in the front of lazer ZX-5SP and ZX-5 FS (the current apparition???)
I tried the same ones in the rear also but found them going into the diff too much. Unfortunately I don't have LA231 to try, with 68mm it should be the perfect combination with the tamiya parts I think.

[tamiyadan]

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