My first RC10 cleanup and modification

Post by **benny** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 11:25 am

Thanks for the tips, jwscab.

OK, front steering arms are first thing, as one of the originals is cracked. Do I need trailing axles or inline axles? Might better get new caster blocks then too. 30 degree? 25degree?

I think I will just get the replacement RPM arms. I did see the widetrack associated front arms, will these work for me?

As far as the rear goes, do I want to use GT rear uprights with the RPM arms? And what CVDs would I run with those arms/uprights?

Last thing. I havent been able to find much for 6 gear replacement parts. My top shaft has a mangled gear hammered on it. Does this stuff come up in the BST here? I'll keep the 6 gear trans if I can make it right, if not I guess I might as well convert it to stealth.

Thank you all very much for the help. Sorry about the flurry of questions. Bear with me, I'm doing my best to climb the RC10 learning curve.

Ben

Post by **jwscab** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:09 pm

trailing vs inline axles and caster angle all pretty much are determined by your tuning. If you are just cruising the car around the neighborhood, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference, so whatever is easier to find.

the wide track arms are essentially the same as the later associated arms, so either set would work fine, but the turnbuckles need to be matched to the longer arms. again, up to you what you want to do. they will handle better, but you probably wouldn't notice.

the rpm arms in the rear are the same dimensions as stock, so no real need to change, and the rear hubs are not necessary to change unless you want to or they are broken. the GT ones have a different offset, so unless you are playing width games, they aren't necessary. stick with the stock type, either the 'wedge' looking ones, or I believe the smoother shaped ones from the electric trucks (RC10T, RC10T2?) have the same offset(verify that).

you can use either 1/4" or 3/16" axle CVD's, the 1/4" ones are drop-in and will work with the JC racing wheels I mentioned. The 3/16" ones need new bearings at a minumum, they are the B2/B3 ones, then you need b2/b3 wheels or the equivalent duratrax replacements seen in the other "2.2 wheel" threads.

lots of guys sell 6 gear parts, usually not in the 'for sale' area, but if you post a wanted ad, lots of parts are around. ebay is also a good place to locate these types of parts if you don't want to wait for BST access.

no worries on the questions. Alot of this information I posted is scattered throughout the board. You could find it all with a couple hours searching, but I know it's frustrating at times if your exact question isn't answered.

btw, keep searching and reading and posting. you'll be at 25 posts before you know it.....good luck!

Post by **creeker** » Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:40 pm

There are several complete 6 gear trans on ebay right now. Not a bad idea to have all the extra parts if you can pick one up cheap.

Post by **benny** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:07 am

Well, I made a trip to the LHS over the weekend to pick up some goodies. Snagged myself a new 12T reversing Dynamite ESC, a new BB Hitec servo, and a Venom 4200 stick pack. It scoots along pretty good with a half-fried Nightmare 27T stocker

Post by **jwscab** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:25 am

just a couple things on the tower order.

you don't need a new front shock tower unless you want it for tuning. it's got the same upper shock hole as the one you have, plus a few more.

the rear gt carriers I believe will change your rear width, and possibly cause issues with your dogbone engagement. I would leave the stock ones on, or go with stock replacements.

the rear axle spacers are for 3/16" axles and won't work for the existing axles(also not needed), unless you are buying them for some other reason.

the front b4 parts will work, just remember you will have to drill or ream out some of the parts to use 1/8" hinge pins.

the phoenix wheels will work, but you will have to add the taper for the 1/4" axles as well as slightly ream the through-hole to 3/16" (or just push them on forcefully)

Post by **benny** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:45 am

Thanks for helping me out and saving me from ordering unneeded parts!

So, I'm thinking reamed Phoenix rear wheels and B4 fronts with ProLine dirt hawg buggy tires for bashing. Any other recommended tire setups for some driveway/yard ripping with the axle setup I have here?

Ben

Post by **jwscab** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:06 am

if you are going to run on asphalt/dirt/grass, etc, I understand that the proline dirt hawgs are a good all around tire. I have a few sets but haven't run 'em yet.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU13&P=ML

you can find the fronts looking below at the 'other items of interest'

here is a picture of them on my car in this thread:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=weapon&start=30

Post by **Jay Dub** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:55 pm

Well, it looks as though you have a good start!. I think however, I might advise against the 1/4 in. rear axle setup though. If you use these axles, then every set of wheels you buy after this will have to be "reamed" in order to fit. If you don't plan on having more than one or two sets of rear wheels than no big deal. But if you want to race, you will propably end up with many more sets. I would suggest the B2/B3 rear CVD setup (3/16), and 4 3/16 x 3/8 flanged bearings to replace what you have stock. This way, you can order Thunder Tiger, or other easier to find rims that wont require any modifications. my .02 -Jeff

P.S. On that note, I have 3 pairs of used yellow 2.175 rears for the 1/4 in axle you can have (just pay for shipping).

Post by **cautrell05** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:27 pm

I converted the rear of my 10T over to 3/16 recently. I used t4 axles for the swap and it consisted of changing the 1/4-3/8 bearings for 3/16-3/8 and changing the axles. one thing that was different was that there was a spacer inbetween the bearings to keep them from getting bound up when the wheel nut is tightened. The wheel spacer you listed is designed to put the force from the wheel to the inner bearing race without binding. I would highly recomend the bearing spacer and the wheel spacer both.

Nick

Post by **benny** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:45 pm

Just so I'm clear, to run the 3/16 rear axles I need B44 rear CVDs and the proper bearings and wheel/bearing spacers? With my original rear carriers? Or does that setup require the T/GT carriers?

Post by **Jay Dub** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 3:46 pm

The rear hubs you have are fine. The cvd setup you are looking for is the MIP CVD's for the B2/B3. I believe the axle portion is the same as the b4, just with a shorter bone portion. The spacer between the bearing is a good idea (and recommended), but can be worked around. The B2/B3 CVD's are the same price, and the bearings are cheap (aroung a buck a piece). It will just make your life easier in the long run.

Check out the "How To" here (http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=8848) regarding running modern wheels and tires on your RC10. Several ways to skin a a cat. I am currently running the B2/B3 cvd's on my cars and they are a direct bolt on. One cool thing about this setup is that you can put AE TC3/4 hex drives on the car and run modern 2.2 in Kyosho (or any other 12mm hex drive) rear rims. Those are VERY plentiful. -Jeff

Post by **Scary Gary** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 12:20 am

You also can run the Thunder tiger xb cvd's and run thunder tiger rims which are the same as b2 and b3 rim I have been told. They are easy to get from tower.

Post by **victor_cathedral** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 1:20 am

i dont think they sell B2/b3 cvds anymore. i cant find it

Post by **Russ Winn** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:16 am

benny wrote:It is 32p now, I was thinking of changing to 48p if possible.

Look into RJSpeed. I picked up a 48p/81t spur gear that is a direct fit for the 6gear tranny.

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My first RC10 cleanup and modification

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