I use a soldering aid, some people call them "helping hands" works great no matter what your soldering
You can get them at Radio Shack and/or just about anywhere.
-Kevin
I have those, but they never seem to have either firm enough grip or enough weight to prevent the arms from moving even with relatively little pushing. Also, with the cheaper ones (at least the one I have), the ball-joints where the alligator clips articulate wear out and loosen, and cannot be tightened.
But that's just me griping. If I had a choice between connectors requiring such a tool or some that don't, I'd go with the latter. Makes life simpler.
Yup I have a set of the helping hands also but the few times i have used them they did move around a lot so i just went back to a pair of needle nose vise grips set to lightly hold the part and if it moves I just put them in my vise. I dont know it works for me and remember if all else fails use a BFH
I stopped using Deans for a while now. I only use XT-60 connectors, they are quite cheap and really good. The also work really well with bigger gauge wire.
Those do look good maybe when I go to a bigger wire size I will use them. What would use anything bigger than 12 gauge wire I thought 12 gauge was pretty big, isnt it?
I like the XT60 connectors too, except for a couple minor things...the good: they can take 12GA and larger wires, and it's impossible to reverse-connect them, and they're easy to solder due to the connectors having round cup ends. The not-so-good: they require heat-shrinking (a piddly detail) and most importantly--they're yellow. Besides brown, yellow might just be my least favorite color.
I happened upon this forum thread elsewhere that discusses EC3's vs. Deans and also some guys who managed to use 10GA wires with EC3's...it ain't easy. But I have to concur with the people who Dissed the Deans, they reiterate some of the Deans disadvantages that I don't like.
One of the annoyances of the EC3's (and presumably EC5's too) is that it can be quite a challenge to get the metal bullets to "snap" into the plastic housings. However, I found a technique which really helped make this step easier...just before I insert the connector into the plastic, I warm up the metal bullet for a few seconds with a heat gun to warm it up. They pop into the housings much easier that way.
Dusted wrote:Thank you all for the responses It gets very confusing and sometimes the more you read the more confused you get
And sometimes it comes down to personal preference. There's not really anything wrong with most of the suggestions listed, use what you can get your hands on and what you feel comfortable soldering. As far as one working better than the others (for the suggestions mentioned,) they're all decent. I use Dean's on everything, because I still have a ton and was using them back when that was the only decent plug my LHS carried.
Coming from a racing background, I'm still entertained by ANY plug discussions... for years I took abuse at the track for having connectors instead of directly soldering my nicad/nimh packs every time in and out of the car. Now all those same people run lipos and... all use plugs.
I was wondering about soldering directly to motor etc but I really wanted to have the ease of removing and replacing the LiPos since I read on here that you shouldnt charge a pack more than once a day. so makes sense to use connectors to me
Hello all,
I recently receieved my new promatch energ 4600 7-cell battery and had my first run on my re-buildt RC10t. I'm running a dynamite tazer 15t esc and a new 17t motor. I was maybe 5 minutes into my bashing session when the truck just...
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Well, its good to know that the cheap 'deans' on the bay are knockoffs. I've used ultra's on both motors and batterys for years with no regrets.
I do think the 'Traxxas' connectors are the future of, at least, sport RC. Lastly, i've heard that...
I made my first purchase of Li-Po packs two weeks ago and was surprised by the wire gauge used. They were Turnigy 2S 30C 5000MAh and have 8ga wire. I wondered if others used Deans with this size wire and did post the question on RC Universe and...
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my friend just picked up some turnigy 5000mah 25c 2s packs. wtf is up with the wire.... I wonder if they had some lawsuit against them having something to do with skimpy wire at one time so they decided to use something I might power a decent amp...
I was waiting for this to happen to give me an excuse to switch over to deans, apparently it came sooner than expected.
No fault whatsoever on my end, it just couldn't handle 7.2v running a mod brushed 19t :roll:
Photos of course :mrgreen:...
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Yep 8) 1 of the L3 oval's is switched over to deans now, working on the other as we speak. I think the motor and esc are running a bit more efficiently also.
So I went into a local shop today and tell the guy there I want a bigger battery so I can run longer and go faster. I tell him I have a pretty stock vintage RC10 with a NiMH 1800 mAh battery. He says without going LiPo, to get this 8.4V battery that...
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i have always used Deoxit contact cleaner (available at radioshack but i get it from work) on all my motor and battery connectors. it cleans,lubes,and protects the contacts and makes them last longer. just half a drop every few weeks and i never had...
I have a need for some of these old style connectors but don't recall the name of them. Is there a source to obtain a few? I have several cars needing them and would like to keep them original as possible.
IMG_20220708_223403.jpg
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Awesome! Thanks for jogging my memory! I think I may have to go with version 1 :shock:
I've got this esc set up (old Novak T-1X) with connectors I haven't seen before, and can't find now. It's a blade style with plus and minus on opposite sides of the blade, and is a one-way fit.
I like the not quite Novak orange and it'll be for a...
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I feel proud being able to say that I still use these Race Prep connectors ... :mrgreen: