Nicely done...cobalta70 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 8:42 pm We cleaned the metal parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. The cups are shown here as we found them.
Then the universals and turnbuckles were polished.
And finally the turnbuckles and universals were made black again using cold blueing technique. The cups were cleaned too, and while we were at it, the hubs that don't have a hole in them were cleaned as well.
RC10T Team build from parts bin
- ChisaiKuso
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Something clever goes here...
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- cobalta70
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
This afternoon we got started on the front end. I don't have a good before picture, but the spindles and pins were all put in the lathe and given a good polish with some fine sandpaper. I think they turned out pretty good:
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Question - did Associated change the length of the 6223 king pins at some point? I have some that I think go with the newer style front ends (that use a set screw in the spindle) that seem to be a couple of millimeters too long. I remember the ones on the original cars being just the right length. Did they change them at some point, or are these simply not the right ones?
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
I think the turnbuckles is the one part we ALL hate
This is turning out superbly, keep it up!
Can I ask you which exact ultrasonic cleaner and sand ("light"?) blasting gear you are using, assuming this is not industrial-grade stuff? I actually need to get equipped on that front too... yours seem to be serving you well
Thanks!
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- cobalta70
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Thanks, we made some more progress on it last night. I will get more pictures up today.
The equipment I have is definitely not industrial-grade. In fact far from it, but it gets the job done.
The ultrasonic cleaner is a model 95563 from Harbor Freight. I got it at one of their tent sales so it was super cheap. If I did it again I would probably spend a bit more money for something a bit better. It certainly gets the job done, but you have to help it along a bit by agitating the parts with a brush. I imagine you wouldn't need to do that with a better one.
The mini sandblaster I have is a Chinese knock-off of the Paasche model AEC-K Air Eraser. It's basically an airbrush that spays very fine sand instead of paint. It works well for things like small rc car parts, but I wouldn't bother using it on anything larger as it would take forever.
I just realized how affordable the real Paasche is, so I'm not sure it's worth getting a Chinese knock-off. It seems Paasche has a larger model as well.
Harbor Freight does sell one for less than half of the price of the Paasche. Although, I think I might have got mine from Hobby King.
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Thank you for taking the time! We don't have HF here in Europe (or almost, haha) but I will look up something! Thankscobalta70 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 11:10 amThanks, we made some more progress on it last night. I will get more pictures up today.
The equipment I have is definitely not industrial-grade. In fact far from it, but it gets the job done.
The ultrasonic cleaner is a model 95563 from Harbor Freight. I got it at one of their tent sales so it was super cheap. If I did it again I would probably spend a bit more money for something a bit better. It certainly gets the job done, but you have to help it along a bit by agitating the parts with a brush. I imagine you wouldn't need to do that with a better one.
The mini sandblaster I have is a Chinese knock-off of the Paasche model AEC-K Air Eraser. It's basically an airbrush that spays very fine sand instead of paint. It works well for things like small rc car parts, but I wouldn't bother using it on anything larger as it would take forever.
I just realized how affordable the real Paasche is, so I'm not sure it's worth getting a Chinese knock-off. It seems Paasche has a larger model as well.
Harbor Freight does sell one for less than half of the price of the Paasche. Although, I think I might have got mine from Hobby King.
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
I think they are overlong because originally nylon washers were used at both ends before the e-clip. Later instructions/kits omit these so the pin appears slightly too long.cobalta70 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:08 pm Question - did Associated change the length of the 6223 king pins at some point? I have some that I think go with the newer style front ends (that use a set screw in the spindle) that seem to be a couple of millimeters too long. I remember the ones on the original cars being just the right length. Did they change them at some point, or are these simply not the right ones?
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- cobalta70
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
We didn't get too much work done on this today as we had to make some emergency repairs to my son's Rustler instead. However, we did get a bit farther along on the front end:
- cobalta70
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Today we got the bellcranks all cleaned up and ready to install on the chassis. The hardest part was finding two decent white nylon 4-40 nuts.
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Last night we got the front end mounted to the chassis. Other than shocks, I think we just need to add a bumper and body mounts before we move onto the back end.
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
Today I noticed that the manual that we have been using calls for two 4-40 x 1/4" button head screws to hold the front body mounts to the mount brace. I have three sets of these mounts and braces in my parts bin, and all of them have 4-40 x 1/2 button head screws holding the mounts to the brace.
Either I am reading it wrong, or the 1/4" is a mistake. A screw that short would barely make it through the brace let alone hold the mounts.
Interestingly enough, the 1/2" screws are almost too long as they seem to bottom out in the bore of the mounts. It seems 3/8" screws would be perfect.
Here is a picture from the manual:
Either I am reading it wrong, or the 1/4" is a mistake. A screw that short would barely make it through the brace let alone hold the mounts.
Interestingly enough, the 1/2" screws are almost too long as they seem to bottom out in the bore of the mounts. It seems 3/8" screws would be perfect.
Here is a picture from the manual:
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
The manuals are prone to mistakes and inconsistencies. Use what works best/you have access to.
Really clean looking build. I am very impressed. Great work.
Really clean looking build. I am very impressed. Great work.
My Photo Gallery --->https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=38934
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Re: RC10T Team build from parts bin
There are different manuals for the different trucks. They call for different stuff, lol.
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